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Jack Leslie's 1957 Sedan Delivery

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1964 GTO Power Steering and Brakes


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Most of the Pontiac catalogs like Year One, National Parts Depot, Ames/Performance Years, etc. carry what you need along with Summit Racing and Jegs.

The important question is what type of braking and steering do you want to do? Mild, near stock braking and handling or aggressive auto cross style? That will effect how much you spend.

BTW - Welcome to FP!

Edited by Frosty
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  • 3 weeks later...

I agree with JUSTA - if you can afford them, drilled and slotted rotors will definitely improve stopping power.

That said, I would look at kits from PST.com, Master Power Brakes, and Classic Performanc Products, Inc brake conversion kits, especially if you are on a  budget.

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It's my understanding that drilled rotors cool better and thereby brake faster ... slots tho ... slots serve a different purpose. Slots are used to deglaze overheated pads. The slots slice off a microscopic bit of surface on the pads. This is important in racing where hard braking and hot brakes are normal ... but for daily driving, all it's going to do is eat pads needlessly. I personally haven't investigated this or claim any expertise.

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Pro - your understanding is essentially correct. The ability to eliminate gas build up between the brake pads and the rotor is another benefit. All in all, the cooler rotors and pads allow for a shorter braking distance, both on the track and on the street. 

Edited by Frosty
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  • 1 month later...

Collindpyle welcome to FP!!  Also, you might want to check out http://www.speedwaymotors.com They have various types of kits that work great and they are cheaper on price than some others venders. You can call them and they will tell you the best system for your needs. With that being said, you might want to consider changing out your old brake lines due to copper build up and age depending on just how old yours are along with flex lines from your hard points to wheels.(yearone has prebent kits that work great for this part of the project. Now, with that on to the power steering most standard GM pumps will work great and most were the same from the mid 60's to early 90's with the exception of hose attachment points and mounting points from various GM models be it pontiac, chevy, olds, or buick. Now, your steering gear box they are plenty as well with the exception of mounting points to the frame which varied from different models but only by a fraction. Also, on the brakes you'll end up getting a brake booster and new master cylinder. It's best to pre-bleed the master cylinder or prime it before installation. (it will save you alot of time) Also, with the brakes especially on the rears after you remove the old drum brake system in which sometimes you need to remove the axle to remove the back plate for  the drum brakes. Or an easy way is to simply cut them off to keep from removing the rear axle. Once you mount your rear disk to your axle retain it with a lug nut then slide the caliper on the disk. What this will do is help you align the support mount bracket for the caliper. Bolt the caliper to the mount then mark the axle where it meets it and clean the paint and grime off the axle and weld it to the axle. Always remember to please disconnect your battery before doing any welding on your car. It will save your battery and any electronics that you may have connected to your car. 

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Hi guitars, I will check out the website and keep you posted. I will keep you posted on what I do. It will mostly happen in the next few months once I get home from school. Thank you for the expert response!!!! Super insightful. 

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