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67 GTO won’t Start

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It was running fine until the other day. I started it up and it stalled when I turned the key the next time all I get is a click. The battery has been on a trickle charge and was fully charged. Possibly the starter? How do I troubleshoot this problem? Thanks Scott

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If it only clicks, it's most likely the starter.  Remove and take to almost any parts store to be checked. Or Justa jump it. If it starts, its the batt.

Edited by JUSTA6

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First thing...Make sure all the Electrical/ battery connections are clean and tight...Then make sure the battery is really fully charged using a multi meter...The battery should have a surface charge of 12 volts...With the volt meter still on the battery have someone turn the key to start the engine....If the battery voltage drops off significantly to 9/10 volts or less while trying to start the engine...That is very good indicator that the battery is NFG...If that checks out OK then move to the starter (make sure the battery cable is tight and clean at the starter) Have some turn the key again and make sure that you have 12 volts at the starter...If it does and the solenoid is operating properly chances are that the starter needs some attention....Sometimes the brushes in those old starters can get stuck...(If that is the the case occasionally you can lightly tap on the starter with a ballpeen hammer and knock them loose) Does the car have headers on it...??  Are they really close to the starter..??

Any further trouble shooting/repair of the starter will require it to be removed from the car....Those starters are designed as serviceable/repairable units and can be fixed....

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I will add one more very rare scenario. Most Pontiac models have the positive battery cable run down along the between the block and exhaust manifold. On my Lemans the positive cable runs between the block and the driver side exhaust manifold. I had a random no start issue happen more than 20 years ago. I thought it was a starter but it wasn't, I had a burned battery cable.

The problem was the battery cable, at some point, had come in contact with the either the block or the exhaust manifold and burned through the rubber insulation, exposing the copper wiring. As the engine expanded, the wire would intermittently touch either the block or manifold and ground out. Once the car cooled down, the car would start because the wiring was not grounding out.

The fix was to replace the battery cable and insure that either insulation or routing of the battery cable was such that it would never touch the block or manifold.

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To elaborate further...The reason I asked if the car has headers or not...Alot of times the headers run really really close to the starter...Over time the excessive heat from the headers..Causes the Insulation between the insulated field coil/ magnets/insulated brush holder (there are two Brushes/holders..One of them is grounded to the... Starter case/frame...The Other is Not) To break down...internally inside the starter...It is a common issue...if the headers are not ceramic coated or have some sort of heat shield between the header pipe and the starter....

Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

9 hours ago, TWO LANE BLACK TOP said:

To elaborate further...The reason I asked if the car has headers or not...Alot of times the headers run really really close to the starter...Over time the excessive heat from the headers..Causes the Insulation between the insulated field coil/ magnets/insulated brush holder (there are two Brushes/holders..One of them is grounded to the... Starter case/frame...The Other is Not) To break down...internally inside the starter...It is a common issue...if the headers are not ceramic coated or have some sort of heat shield between the header pipe and the starter....

yip been there done that ! gm staters soooo dont like heat !:rofl:

Scott, ya JUSTA gonna leave us hangin?  What did you find?

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