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Shakercars's 1972 Trans Am

2019 August
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BearGFR last won the day on March 25

BearGFR had the most liked content!

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About BearGFR

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    Learning to Fly
  • Birthday 03/21/1953

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  • Location
    South of Springtown, TEXAS

Forever Pontiac

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    Rob Garrett
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    "400" :)
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  1. So, the customer explicitly said he wanted to keep the Olds 455 and this moron LS swaps it anyway? How dumb can one person get?
  2. Howdy Kane, that's a nice looking piece you've got there. I'm interested in your experience with the Quickfuel and the Baldwin you have coming. By any chance do you have an Air/Fuel meter on the car? I'm just getting familiar with a new carb on my 69 myself, my first ever experience with a "brand H" carburetor and am in the process of getting the mixtures dialed in over all the different operating regimes. One of the things I've been struggling with is off-idle and low cruise mixtures. When I have the idle "dead on", off idle and low cruise are both "pig rich". Bear
  3. Agree - I'm not at all a fan of LS's. I'm willing to watch a few more episodes to see if they introduce any variety, but if that's all we're going to see then it's not going to hold my interest. Bear
  4. FYI... Unless you're doing it to save weight, that Performer is not going to "out perform" the factory cast iron manifold, especially on a 455 that normally won't see the north side of 5000 rpm often. You might spend some time looking at Cliff Ruggle's (QJet master) and the real world testing he has done. Here's a link to a post he wrote on his web site: https://cliffshighperformance.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php/topic,511.msg2231.html#msg2231 Bear
  5. Oh... let's see. More compression to take advantage of the aluminum heads - now 10.3:1, and better quench properties, both from a new rotating assembly w/forged crank. (Long story there - when I first built the engine in 2010 I used #722 heads and had to do some extreme things to get compression ratio down to 9.5:1 to make it pump gas friendly with iron heads. "Things happened" and unfortunately, I had to switch over to round port aluminum Edelbrocks. One of the side effects of that was that even with thinner head gaskets, compression with the E-heads was at 10:1 which was still not enough to really take advantage of them. So "this time" I knew I wanted to at least change pistons and go to a forged crank, and figured that by the time I bought those parts and had the assembly balanced the cost would be close to that of a complete new rotating assembly anyway, so that's the route I went.) New neutral balanced TCI SFI flex plate and Romac SFI balancer on both ends of the new rotating assembly. (I already had an SFI flex plate on the 'other' build but it was for a 'normal' external balance.) New Rollmaster .005" shorter 9-way adjustable timing set - block has been align honed and needed the shorter chain to compensate. Spotts Performance windage tray and crank scraper, plus a Luhn Performance 80 psi oil pump with all his nice bells and whistles round out the bottom end. On "top" I "dropped back" to 1.5:1 rockers to take some stress off the top of the engine, Crower stainless full rollers this time instead of aluminum 1.65's, new Crower cutaway solid roller lifters with their High Pressure Pin Oiling option. Even though it's now 1.5:1 on the rockers, it has more cam now than it had before: this one is from Bullet, a solid roller with a duration of 251/257 @ 0.050, 110 LSA, installed at 106 ICL, net .620 lift at the valves after accounting for valve lash. (The previous cam from Comp used 1.65 rockers and made 236/242 @ 0.050 and about .600 lift). New intake, a Northwind. New Carb, AED 850 HO Annular. It was a challenge making that work with the factory Ram Air system, let me tell you - but I pulled it off. Also new Ferrea valves, PAC springs, PAC titanium retainers, Isky standard height 7 degree super locks. New converter, a 9.5" from Tri Shield Performance (I love it - it behaves almost like a stocker until I hang my foot in it - MUCH better than my previous one). I also repainted the engine compartment, re-routed the brake lines to clean them up and make them look better. Had new hoses made for the A/C system and for the hydroboost brake system such that they now route up over and behind the fenders so everything looks cleaner. Added an additional auxillary transmission oil cooler after the one in the radiator and tucked it away inside the fender behind the windshield washer fluid reservoir, and also ducted air flow to it from the opening in the valance below the bumper. I also made AN braided steel Teflon lined hoses for the trans cooler lines and routed them up behind the fenders as well, both for looks and to get them far away from the passenger side header. The headers I had recoated. Previously they had Jet Hot's 'stainless steel' finish on them but that wasn't quite standing up to the exhaust heat this engine makes so I sent them back to Jet Hot to be upgraded to their higher temp coating - they're now a cobalt blue color with a sandpaper texture that will definitely take the heat and also looks nice with the Pontiac silver blue metallic engine color. I added more instrumentation as well. The car already had factory Rallye gauges but I wanted more precision information, so now there's a brace of AEM digital X-series gauges below the dash and above the console in addition to the still functional Rallye gauges. The new AEM's are Oil Pressure, Coolant Temperature, Transmission Temperature, and UEGO Wide Band Air/Fuel mixure. These all have data logging capability, however I haven't added the logger component to consume that data yet - that's still on the 'future' list. That's all I remember for now....
  6. On the 2016 Power Tour, my GTO ate a rocker arm going into Wichita KS. My son and I spent the next 2 days in the Motel 6 parking lot in 100+ degree heat trying to get it running again. We were successful, but opted to rent a UHaul rig and trailer it home anyway over concerns that the failed rocker arm had put shrapnel through the engine. That turned out to be a wise decision once we got it home and torn down. It had to wait for "awhile" because I was just starting on a project to renovate my workshop and wanted to get that done first. Then when I did finally get to work on the GTO, I fell victim to a series of "well, while it's apart I might as well do's"... Two years and a whole lot more than just repairing a rocker arm later, we've got this: Bear's GTO - Finally running again Bear
  7. +1 - There's no need to open it up unless you've got good reason to suspect a problem.
  8. BearGFR


    Also big into firearms and target shooting (I'm a certified Training Counselor), just got into reloading, music (I play drums), computers and software, doing all kinds of crap with my tractor (we live in the country on 13.5 acres), got a zillion "home improvement" projects I'm always working on (I did -everything- on this one myself except for building the steel building and spraying the insulation [ I -did- build all of the bathroom including the plumbing and shower]: ) . Used to be heavily involved in the boy scouts program before we moved out here to the sticks - still like to camp and backpack. I'm a certified private pilot although I haven't been current/active in quite a few years, but it's still "on my list" of things to get back into. We love to travel... I'd like to get SCUBA certified...
  9. Ok, I'm in. Let's see, 69 GTO, all work done by yours truly. Numbers matching, stroked to 461 inches, best et to date 11.86 @ 113 mph.
  10. My personal preference is Wix or Mobil One. I care mostly about how well they work, very little about appearance.
  11. Well, something isn't working. I never got any email or other notification about anything else that was needed, or I would have sent it. I had no idea on anything related to the calendar until a couple days ago when I got a notice on Twitter they they're available, even then it took a lot of effort just to find this thread. Do you really believe that 4 people would go to the trouble of entering the contest and then just ignore requests for more material? That alone should tell you that there's a problem with the notification mechanism.
  12. Hey Rick, I'm running a Sanden on my 69 and it works fine. I have an issue with the fan in my aftermarket unit not moving enough air, but the air itself is nice and cool. Bear
  13. I know it seems hard, but it's not. The only things that actually matter are: 1) When #1 cylinder (front, drivers side) is at TDC on the compression stroke (remember that TDC occurs twice: once on compression, once on exhaust) 2) The rotor inside the distributor is pointed to the terminal on the cap that you have #1 spark plug wire connected to, and 3) The rest of the wires are sequenced counter clockwise according to firing order. That's it. The other items such as which way is the vacuum diaphragm pointing, and which specific terminal you have #1 wire connected to do not matter at all as far as the engine being able to start and run. However, the orientation of the vacuum diaphragm can have an effect on you being able to properly time the engine (it may hit the intake and prevent you from turning the distributor like you need to), and for 100% correct concours level nit-picking restoration the terminal for #1 plug wire should be pointed "more or less" towards the drivers seat. But as long as you have those first 3 items right, the engine should run. A couple of easy ways to identify TDC compression stroke: Remove all the spark plugs and stick a rag or paper towel or something over #1 spark plug hole then crank it over with the starter. When the rag gets blown off, that's TDC compression. Do the same thing, only stick your thumb over the hole and have a buddy crank the engine over. You'll be able to tell when you're at TDC compression. Once you're sure you're at TDC compression on #1, look to see which cap terminal the rotor is pointing at and connect #1 wire to that one. Wire the rest in firing order sequence, working counter-clockwise. You can do this. Bear
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