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Pontiac of the Month

onetrick56's 1964 Grand Prix

2020 September
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BearGFR last won the day on October 3

BearGFR had the most liked content!

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About BearGFR

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    Learning to Fly
  • Birthday 03/21/1953

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    South of Springtown, TEXAS

Forever Pontiac

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    Rob Garrett
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    "400" :)
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  1. Yep, you can try tightening down the two center bolts to see if that at least changes it.
  2. It's that where the ticking sound is coming from? If so, that's an exhaust leak. The passage there connects to the center two exhaust ports. The purpose is to warm the bottom of the intake to help with fuel atomization when the engine is cold.
  3. Could be.... know what else it could be? Check all your spark plug wires, make sure they're connected solid at both ends. If you have two that cross (and you almost always do) try to make sure they cross at 90 degrees to each other as close as you can. Fire it up in a dark garage and look all the wiring over to see if you can spot any arcing going on. If one is arcing, it can sound like that. I didn't hear anything when listening to the first video at 2200 rpm. It sounded pretty good to me, but maybe I just couldn't hear it in the recording. But yes, it could be a rocker/lifte
  4. Hey Partner, Like boni said, if it's a brand new cam and/or brand new lifters then the safe thing is to break them in. Let it run for at least 15-20 minutes and never let it get BELOW 2000 rpm - don't let it idle. Make sure you've got oil with plenty of ZDDP in it. Keep a close eye on oil pressure and coolant temp. (If anything looks like it's going south, shut it down). After that, shut it down, drain the oil, pull the filter and cut it open for inspection. It'll be normal to find a *little* metal in it with new bearings, new cam, but there should be a lot of it and no obviously bi
  5. Alright! I might be hearing a lifter, can't tell for sure, it could also be and exhaust leak but it sounds like a good solid idle. You're getting there. Bear
  6. I use this starter: RobbMc Pontiac Mini-starter (Dirty and before I painted the engine) In my opinion, there's not a better one on the market anywhere. It's "clockable", which means the starter body can be rotated to any position you choose. I have mine set so that the solenoid is 'down' and as far away from the header as I can get it. He also has other products and I use most of them: fuel pump, fuel filters, fuel pressure regulator. Bear
  7. That's called a windage tray. It's purpose is to keep the crank from picking up a whirling mass of oil, which robs power. You've got one of the nice full length factory trays. No longer available from anywhere. The later model and repop trays are 3/4 length. I can see the lower dipstick tube right where it's supposed to be, too, so it's not likely that what you're hearing is coming from the dipstick. Bear
  8. Hmmm.. so the cover is already off. Whatever it is, it sounds like it's hitting on every crankshaft revolution. I like the phone video idea. I wonder if it could be something wedged in a tooth on the flex plate? Missing/damaged tooth? Does it still do it with the dipstick pulled? Did the lower dipstick tube (the one that goes inside the pan) get left out? I'm not sure I'd run it until I figured it out. If you can get it high enough to get under it safely, maybe try to get a better idea of where it's coming from. Make SURE it can't start - disable the ignition/pull all the spark p
  9. Don't worry about difference in readings too much before you ever run the engine. The rings haven't had a chance to seal. As far as the noise, is it an automatic? If so, remove the converter dust cover and see if it goes away. I've had it happen a few times on my '69 where it gets installed just a tiny bit crooked and one of the converter bolts hits it. Bear
  10. Any salvage yards nearby that might have one? That bolt and washer have to absorb a lot of stress. There's a reason they're as big as they are and get torqued to 160 lb. ft. You've come a long way with this and have had to redo a lot to get here. It'd be a real shame to create another problem for yourself now just because you're impatient. A "plain old washer" might work, but if that were true then why did Pontiac engineers create that special one just for that one bolt? I know you're in a hurry, but don't you want this to be the last time you have to tear into it for awhile? B
  11. Great - ok I see your cam specs. I called Comp myself and asked about the springs, the part number he gave me (SKU 995-15) I don't find on their web site but the rep gave me the specs on the springs. Installed height: 1.700 Seat Pressure: 115 lbs Open pressure: 336 lbs Coil bind: 1.150 (so the max safe valve lift is about .490: 1.700-1.150-0.060 safefy margin = .0490) - which is within range of what that cam makes assuming 1.5:1 ratio rockers (.462/.470) All that of course assumes that the spring installed heights are all set correctly at 1.700 If you want to c
  12. Ok then, yeah - having the spring specs or even Comp's part number so we can look them up would be very helpful. Since it's all aftermarket stuff, did you check and verify your spring installed heights and also make sure that when combined with the cam you're running, they aren't going into coil bind? All that is supremely important. Its very common with aftermarket springs to need to either cut the spring seats down, or shim the springs up to get the installed height correct. Otherwise, the spring won't perform as rated. Either they'll be providing too much pressure which can cause prem
  13. That's a huge warning flag for me that I find very strange. Do you know anything at all about what kind of springs are on the engine? What their specs are or anything? Your post later in this thread mentioned something about the "forks on his compressor separating". That tells me he's got one of these (prehaps an air-operated version). When I'd expect a pro machine shop to have something like this: See the difference? The ''business end" is a continuous ring - nothing to separate. Here are some decent videos that show the processes involved in replacing valv
  14. Very true. I hadn't thought of that.
  15. Sounds like you're finally catching a break or two on this. That's good. It was me who suggested cutting open the oil filter. There are some nice tools available for doing it, but you may not want to buy one yourself. They look and work like large tubing cutters. The manual way to do it is described here: What you're really interested in is removing the paper and spreading it out so that you can eyeball it for "shiny bits". This video shows inspecting the filter out of a Cat, but the principles are the same.
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