I did some automotive archeology on Sunday. My buddy Brit called me over to his house. He recently purchased a 1968 Chevy Impala Custom 2-door. It has a 327-4bbl with a two-speed Powerglide automatic and factory air conditioning. The car was sold in New Rose NY as a factory or dealer demo since the car had over 11,700 miles on it when it was first sold. It was delivered to the dealer in May 1968 and sold in May 1969.

The car was originally blue but has been re-painted some sort of Arrest Me Red color. There are some bad spots in the paint. In the proper light they show up as bad spots, but polished and in the sunlight this car is a head turner. The paint is bubbling up near the rear window, so we figure about in two more car show seasons is all this paint has left in it before it will need to be re-done.

Brit has already removed the front clip of the car and he has begun sandblasting the front frame rails and firewall. Today he asked for my help taking the front suspension apart. I did take my camera, naturally, So I do have photos. The sandblasting revealed some of the original inspection markings on the firewall. These will be re-created after Brit repaints the firewall. We still have to remove the AC housing and heater core assembly . However that is a project for another day.

Here are the firewall markings that will be re-created after the firewall is re-painted.

Today’s mission was to remove the entire front suspension, including the dangerous front coil springs. We did have a spring compressor and some U-bolts shackles. So away we went. Once we jacked the car up on 4x4 wood blocks, the front tires were removed, then the toe-in adjustment bars, the front end links and the front sway bar came off. Next came the removal of all the drag links. We left all the drag links intact so when we install all the new hardware, we can use the old HW to tell us the spacing for each rod. That way, we can get close to a new alignment and be able to drive the car to an alignment shop for a proper front end alignment without destroying the front tires with too much camber, caster, or toe-in.

Here is what we started with, a roller...

The lazy L-shaped bar is the toe-in adjustment and a good view of how the sway bar is attached to the sway bar end links.

Once the drag linkage was removed (the link between the pitman arm proved to be the hardest to remove – we had to use the pickle fork with a pneumatic hammer several times before it would come off), we removed the drum brakes, brake shoes, and the backing plates. This gave us access to the castle nuts and cotter pins holding the spindle to the upper and lower control arms and the bump stops. Once we were down to the empty spindle, we carefully installed the spring compressor and U-bolt shackles. This seem to take forever to install as the spring compressor’s carriage bolt seems like it is over a foot long to screw it in before any tension starts and then you begin to tighten it up!

Once the spring was compressed and the U-bolts installed, we loosened (but did not remove) the upper castle nut and then we hit it with the pneumatic pickle fork to loosen the upper A-Arm. We put a jack and a 4x4 block of wood under lower control arm spring pocket perch to support the lower control arm. We put tension on the lower control arm and then removed the castle nut. Now that the A-arm was loose, we slowly lowered it with the floor jack from a distance to allow the lower arm come down slowly with the springs in it. Once control arm was lowered to the floor, the spring was removed. We put the spring on a bench and slowly loosen the spring compressor to relieve the tension.

Brit with his coil spring.....

The whole process took us about 6 ½ hours to do this since we are constantly dealing with falling sand from the media blaster falling out of the frame and ever crevasse, all the remaining grease and sludge built up after 40+ years. Removing the eccentric bolt out of the frame on the lower control arms was quite a chore too. In the end, we managed to remove the entire suspension.

Here is what we ended up with....

Here is the eccentric bolt....

The next task will be to remove the AC housing and heater core assembly, replacing the old brake booster and master cylinder with a new aftermarket booster and master cylinder since Brit is going to install all new front end hardware and front disc brakes on this big car. So no more front drum brakes, so we pitched all the old brake shoes and spring hardware, We also have plans to separate the body from the chassis long enough to replace all the body to chassis bushings. He may do a complete sandblast of the frame at that point too but this is not intended to be a complete frame off restoration project (at this point).

Today I was invited to go back to my buddy Brit’s place and continued working on disassembling his ’68 Chevy Impala Custom. Brit’s goals for today was to remove the rear bumper, remove the steering column, the front seat, and the heater core.

Now he’s done quite a bit of work since I was there last. He removed the firewall mounted AC condenser, blower motor and covers, painted POR-15 (Paint Over Rust) on the firewall and front frame. He has sandblasted and painted most of the front frame brackets and steering linkage. He had to order a new (used) radiator support and inner front passenger fender from Bob’s Impalas in Arizona. It seems that the battery box mounts to these two parts and the old batteries leaked acid and ruined these parts beyond repair. So these parts are still in the box and will be sandblasted and painted soon.

The firewall and frame has been POR-15’d!

Air conditioning parts

Arizona parts still in the box waiting their turn to be sandblasted and painted....

We had to remove the rear valance panel and remove the existing U-bolts from the exhaust system to get to the bolts that hold on the valance panel. Once the valance panel was removed, we got to work attacking the rear bumper bolts and screws. The bumper is actually in two pieces. We have to remove retaining screws top and bottom that hold the 6 tail light bezels against the bumper. Unfortunately these are all Phillips head screws and some of them had to either broken their plastic retainer or had to be cut off. In one case, I had to hold a box wrench while Brit used a grinder to cut off some stuck bolts. The sparks burned the hair off my left arm in a 2 inch by 1 inch patch. It stings – a lot ! The bumpettes were in sad shape too. One was dented up and the other one was good except the chrome was badly deteriorating and peeling. The whole removal and disassembly of the bumper took 3 ½ hours.

Brit is grinding off one of the bolts. That is my arm on the left catching the sparks. Yeow !!!

Here is the bumper off….looks like a trophy fish,…er bumper to me!

Here is what we started with

Comparison of the bumperettes….

After the bumper, we removed the front bench seat. Six bolts and two seat belt anchor bolts was all that held it. However we had to tear some of the new carpet to get to bolts. We later learned why the new carpet was put down. The front seat showed some sign of wear and tearing, and it will need to be repaired or replaced.

We moved onto the steering column next. We removed the 5 firewall bolts, tension screw, and neutral safety switch first. Next we removed the plastic cover between the dash and the column, followed by the 4-dash to column bolts (we left one loosely on until we were ready to remove it). We had trouble removing the electrical connection to the column. We then removed the PRNDL cable and then the column was ready to come out.

We decided to pull back the carpet to prevent damage to the carpet from antifreeze from the heater core. We found it had been heavily glued down. Once we pulled back the insulation and carpet in the driver’s seat we found some serious rust. We ended up pulling up and ruining the new carpet and insulation in the process. Once we got the carpet entirely out, we found a Swiss cheese driver floor pan. What surprised us even more is someone had horribly welded in a patch panel in the rear passenger foot well. It appears that the patch panel was welded over the original floor pan. However there is huge cap that you can stick a screwdriver into that can catch water and start the rusting process all over again. This entire panel will have to cut out and replaced properly.

Swiss cheese driver floor pan.

The fuqd up patch panel job…the screwdriver is inserted in the unwelded section.

Finally we removed the rear seat. It was clear the mice or squirrels made the back seat their home for quite some time. We found Swiss cheese looking acorn shells all over the back along with tiny shreds of paper. The shredded paper turned out to be about half of the car’s original broadcast/build sheet. With the seats out, it was clear that mice had chewed the seat material to build nests. So the rear seats need to be entirely replaced.

The partial nut husks….

The rear seat damages….

Here is what’s left of the broadcast sheet…

We never did remove the heater core. We called it a day after gutting most of the interior. I suggested replacing the entire wiring harness at this point. I am not sure if Brit will do it, but it is the most opportune time to do it. Clearly there is some floor pan patch panels and welding in the near future for this thing. Birt thinks he knows a buddy who can do this particular job the right way.

I love restoration projects like these. I just wish I had the time and money to do such a thing. I'm so tedious when I do body work and body panel dismantling, so it's perfect for me.

I'd love to find a 60's Pontiac Tempest Wagon to build, probably go the retro-rod route and make it into a road course beast.

1965 is the body I'd probably get.

That's cool Chaos. I like the pro-touring style in the first place. Personally I would rather have the classic Coke bottle shape of the '68 - 72 wagons myself. I saw a rare '71 Lemans Sport Wagon at a car show last year. The guy had a For Sale sign on it for $15k on it. I walked back to the car later in the show and he had uped the price to $17k. I don't think he was that serious about selling it. I agree with you, wagons are neat. I saw a gorgeous Buick Sport Wagon last Christmas that was all red with the Vista Cruise package. It really looked cherry (pun intended).

Here is that Lemans Sport Wagon. When this picture was taken it was still at $15k.

Wagons of any model are cool to me, whether it's a Subaru WRX STi Wagon to a 60's Tempest Wagon.

That is a gorgeous example...but that hood scoop, ugh.

wagon = win

The hood scope is a clear throw back to the early 60s hood scopes that you could find on the Catalinas and Bonnevilles in the day. It's not my cup of tea. The hood tach is fine, but a repo Ram Air hood would look better, perhaps with an Endura front end too. This wagon does have the factory console automatic shifter too.

At my job, we have a 1994 Chevy Caprice Wagon, it's in pretty good shape...minor rust issues. But what makes it interesting is that it's an LT1 model. We've lowered it with Eibach springs with Tokico shocks and threw a set of ROH ZS wheels on it, 17x9 with 235/55 R17 Sumitumo HTR A/S P01 rubber. Looks pretty badass if you ask me. Not to mention, the last of it's kind to come out from GM.

Saw a Buick Roadmaster yesterday

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I believe the Roadmasters were known to commonly have the LT1 more than Caprice wagons...

There is a late 70s Lemans Wagon sitting behind a mechanics garage. It has a very similar front end to the Phoenix. I think I posted it before. Classic wagons are awesome

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Saw a Buick Roadmaster yesterday

My dad still has his '94 Roadmaster Limited Sedan. Its his daily driver in good weather and then the '04 S10 Blazer 4x4 in the winter. It has 150k on it. The LT1 still halls butt and gets 25 mpg highway if you keep your foot out of it and drive smart. I have yet to see the Opti-Spark problem these motors are notorious for too. My dad says he will never buy another Buick so I stand to inherit this land yacht some day.

There is a late 70s Lemans Wagon sitting behind a mechanics garage. It has a very similar front end to the Phoenix. I think I posted it before. Classic wagons are awesome

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I don't recall that one. Do you know the post thread?

The shop's Caprice suffered from the damned opti-spark distributor, it went through a few used and reman units.

I don't recall that one. Do you know the post thread?

I can't find it, but it was identical to this one

' timestamp='1354147038' post='76931']

The shop's Caprice suffered from the damned opti-spark distributor, it went through a few used and reman units.

Has it settled down now or did you have to re-engineer the distributor?

I can't find it, but it was identical to this one

I agree with you Havoc. We don't see these wagons much anymore.

I spoke to Brit this morning. He's been busy without me. He has found a local shop that will do the proper repair on the floor pans. It will cost him about $100 for the labor. I told him to write the check.

Since then, he has removed the dash himself. He said after 40 years, the front and rear speakers have virtually nothing left of them but brittle paper. He has POR-15 the good parts of the floor pan too. The heater core will be removed next along with the last bit of firewall insulation.

Has it settled down now or did you have to re-engineer the distributor?

We got it running again during the summer, but it sat for another three months before it was put back on the road. My employer let the guy I work with use it as a company car, he's the one who brought it back to life anyway. So far, no issues other than a squeaky pulley.

' timestamp='1354631628' post='77120']

We got it running again during the summer, but it sat for another three months before it was put back on the road. My employer let the guy I work with use it as a company car, he's the one who brought it back to life anyway. So far, no issues other than a squeaky pulley.

That's great Chaos. At least a squeaky pulley is a relatively easy fix.

That's great Chaos. At least a squeaky pulley is a relatively easy fix.

Totally is. Even better, the LT1 can still just roast the rear tires.

' timestamp='1354732752' post='77132']

Totally is. Even better, the LT1 can still just roast the rear tires.

Yes it can. It still amazes me the torque my dad's Roadmaster has and he still gets 25 mpg on the highway with it.

Brit invited me back over yesterday to start putting the front suspension back together. He has completely sandblasted, etched primered, and POR-15’d the control arms and the rest of the steering gear. He had a local shop insert the new bushing into the upper and lower control arms. He also purchased an entire new set of ball joints, drag link, steering link and pitman arms to round out the new rubber OER bushings.

I got to check out the work he has done to the floor pans. Let me just say that 44 year old speaker wire looks nasty!

The floor pans look good – so far. The bad patches still need to be cut out and replaced though

Nasty speaker wire! Ugghh…

When we took the suspension apart, the original ball joints were still in the car. You can tell they are original ball joints because they are riveted on, not bolted. I found it interesting that even in the original ’68 Chevrolet Service Manual it states to drill out the 3/8 holes in the control arms large enough to accept a 5/16 bolt. So you bolt in the new upper and lower ball joints with the provided hardware.

New upper ball joint tested fitted.

Freshly painted control arms, spindles, and strut rods

We got the upper and lower control arms installed and the driver side strut rod (it does the toe-in adjustment). We decided to take the strut rod off completely in order to get the front coil spring in. It just gave a little more angle to get the spring in. We made several attempts to get the spring in, using the spring compressor and we were not successful getting it in. After staring at the assembly manual and service manual for a long time, it seems that the spring is put in with the spindle already in place to both the upper and lower control arms and that a special shaped block of wood and a jack under the lower control arm’s bushing is used to raise the entire assemble. So you jack up the lower control arm until it moved into place into the frame.

Since I had to leave early to pick up my boy from school (we had a fundraiser to pick up right after school – 9 boxes of ready to bake Little Caesar’s pizzas and hot wings), Brit called the local shop that installed these springs for the previous owner. It turns out that this is the most difficult and cumbersome upper and lower control arm configuration GM ever produced and it is therefore the most difficult to re-install. So the shop advise Brit to reassemble suspension and put a 4x4 block of wood in place of the springs, make the car a rolling chassis, put it on a trailer and bring to the shop where they have the specialty tools and techniques to install these springs safely. So that is what we are going to do the next time we get together.

BTW – the burned flesh is healing nicely.

Sandblasted inner fenders, core support, and transmission cross brace are ready for etching primer and paint.

Wrong replacement bump stop compared to the original. The new one is for a Camaro, Nova, Chevy II (and perhaps a Phoenix too). It is definitely not the right one for a full size Chevy.

Box of new replacement parts, drag link, pitman arm, etc.

Ladies love scars!

Also car it looking good! I wish I had someone to restore a car with. blahh

Ladies love scars!

Also car it looking good! I wish I had someone to restore a car with. blahh

Yeah,chicks dig scars. Wives don't...they just yell at you and ask why did you let it happen in the first place? No man can answer that question and sound intelligent.

You have all the help you need my friend. You have folks here on the forum like Chaos, JUSTA6, notallthere, etc to ask for advice. You just need to recruit family and friends to help you do the heavy wrenching work. Beer and pizza is always a tempting offer to bribe people to help. Donuts and coffee do the same thing if it is a morning job. Real car guys show up for free to smell the grease and oil and feel the sludge between their fingers.

Restoring a car is a series of small projects done right to make up a large project. So restore your car a little at a time, as you can afford it. Sure, paint and body are probably the most expensive and time consuming parts of the project. Start with small projects that you can reasonably do in a day or a weekend. Save the bigger projects for when you have more cash and you can afford to have the car out of commission for longer periods of time (i.e. body work, engine/drivetrain rebuild, etc.). The biggest thing to any project is thinking it through. Do you have all the parts, the proper tools, fluids, local parts store nearby thats open late, etc. You most definitely can do it.