I am looking to restore my Mint GTO, BUt plan a few chANGES. IM PUTTING A 1966 TRIPOWER  on it soon. And possible adding water injection . Anyone have any tips or experience with r

tripower or water injection? The plumbing is a huge challenge. I called 3 mzjor wateer injrection sellers, and they seemed stumped, I figured on plugging the injectors ijnto the base plates of front and rear carbs. But the spCING IS TOO Tighrt

My next thoufht was to drill ports into the side of the pleneum under the cenetr carb, as close yo the center carbs venturis.  But I dont want tik wreck a manifold.  

 

I will be using an aluminum trippwer manifold. But I need some expert help. ould thiox approach compromise the mamifold?

The guys I spoke too said the  injectors must be horizonatl as possible, and cannot connect through anggled fittings.    I cant find a nitrouse type plate to mount under the Rochester 2 GCs.. apparently no one makes any,.

My last thoiught was to buy 1’ aluminum spacsers ( widely available), and drill 2 port ain each end. carb spacer, and ire it to open when the end carbs go fulll opemn,   But This does nt help part trhrottledetlonation occurrrin ng only withce thew. center carb only.    I dont wa nt to ch\a nge heads, the en giner has only 5000 miles since rebuild.

Edited July 3, 20233 yr by Davros989
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Are you going for water injection as a means to control detonation? If so, the tri-power arrangement is the worst possible scenario to do it for all the reasons you've mentioned.

Are you looking to go fuel injection instead? I know that Barry Grant use to have a  tri-power fuel injection system for a Pontiac V8 before they went bankrupt years ago. I don't know if anyone picked up that product/product line but I am sure some kits still exist out in the internet somewhere.

Yes, well i want tripower as i had it 30 years ago and it was a blast.  But i did run a primitive Holley water injection on 455w tripower, cam, 9.5 compressionw 1972. 2bbl 400 heads, 2.11/ 1.77valvres.   It never ran right( the tripower was in bsd shape).  Now i have restorex tripower, stock motor,, 10.5 compression. It pings ehen driving hard. I addrd 4 row desert C cooler, 160 degree thermostat, flrx fan. And still had to retatd timing too avoid detonatoon. 

What is the actual water temp reading as of now? 

 

 What sized jets do the Carburetors have in them...?? 

When the engine was redone was the cam set straight up or 4 degrees advance...?? 

Are there any flat spots..When accelerating through the RPM range...??

 

 

 

Edited July 7, 20233 yr by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

The car is running the stock setup, with original 

 i not switchbinh  C to Tripower until the detonation/ pinging is fixed 

I bouvhy it from a guy who did lit of work, focimented everything.  Thr cars idles smoothly, always fires right up. But after it warmms up, sith moderate part throttle load, 3.23 rear gear, Th400 tranny . Completely stock base 400 engine

When the engine timing Marks on the damper/timing tab are lined up to zero (TDC)...Have you Physically verified that the engine is actually at TDC...?? (Both the intake and exhaust valves fully closed and the piston is at its highest point in the #1 cylinder)...The reason I ask is...Because the outer ring on the damper/balancer can/will slip around on the center hub...And the timing mark will NOT be accurate...Even though the timing mark on the damper indicates TDC....In actuality the engine timing can be several degrees off...Possibly causing your detonation issue...Might be worthwhile to check out...

Edited July 7, 20233 yr by TWO LANE BLACK TOP