havoc1482

So, remove most rust physically (sanding) rust converter, then prime, then paint and/or clear coat? Does POR make a converter? Are their any brands you recommend?

I'm gonna redirect the Phoenix talk to this thread: https://foreverpontiac.com/topic/3117-havocs-questions-post/page-13?hl=+question%20+thread

Totally reviving this thread. The last couple posts in my "Farmall Progression" thread went onto the topic of the Phoenix. Frosty and I were talking about ground clearance issues, proper rim/tire size for the X-body ect. This is the last post I made: I just measured the rim and tire width. Looks like 15x8? I found these local. I might buy them because two of my current once leak around the bead, and they aren't Pontiac. Would these be a correct fit for the Phoenix? Rally II 15x7s https://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/5020516816.html I also found a set of 14x7s for sale http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4999807732.html What do you think? Also, I have another question. Whats a good strategy to remove some of the rust around the wheel wells and stop it until someday I can get the car painted or something? Its causing the paint to bubble and I want to stop it cold before it eats too much. I was thinking I take the chrome trim off and sand\brush it down and throw some preventive primer and some cheap paint to keep it from getting worse? I don't care about ruining the look (taking paint off and what not) if thats what it takes to stop deterioration of the body. Id rather be proactive so I can work in it small steps at a time.

I just measured the rim and tire width. Looks like 15x8? I found these local. I might buy them because two of my current once leak around the bead, and they aren't Pontiac. Would these be a correct fit for the Phoenix? Rally II 15x7s https://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/5020516816.html I also found a set of 14x7s for sale http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4999807732.html What do you think? Also, I have another question. Whats a good strategy to remove some of the rust around the wheel wells and stop it until someday I can get the car painted or something? Its causing the paint to bubble and I want to stop it cold before it eats too much. I was thinking I take the chrome trim off and sand\brush it down and throw some preventive primer and some cheap paint to keep it from getting worse? I don't care about ruining the look (taking paint off and what not) if thats what it takes to stop deterioration of the body. Id rather be proactive so I can work in it small steps at a time.

I'd have to check. It could be that those airshocks I have back there lost their pressure and sagged the rear. I wonder If I can find the hose and pump em back up to see what happens.

So.... never? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Yeah It does, but stamped on the right side is the old IHC symbol. So it was probably for a tractor or implement. They came with certain products. I wonder what this one was for Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Found this gem on the farm in the dirt. Cleaned it up. Definitely a unique wall hanger. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Frosty, those X-body's like mine had 15s stock wheels right? I still believe that part of my clearance issue is the 14s that are on it. I should save up for a new set. And yeah the oiler could be taken too. The A, B, BN, C and Super C has the same transmission internals. C and Super C have a different differential though. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

It never ends does it? hahah. So I never tested it in reverse and today I did and the reverse idler gear is noisy as a son of a bitch! Luckily that gear can be removed without having to take it all apart again. I just have to drain the gear oil, remove the rear PTO and tap the bushing out. I'm trying to get a hold of this guy that is parting out a old Farmall B, tons of interchangable parts for my A. Maybe I can snag the old idler. Or maybe I just need a new bushing. I guess I could live without going in reverse for a while right? haha

Shes hiding under a cover in the driveway waiting for me to find the rear shocks i misplaced lol Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Yes and no. Runs great. Transmission is a little quieter, but the damaged oiler gear makes a *tap tap tap* noise. Not a problem though, she'll run 100%. New bearings and repaired shift guide are a big improvement. Before it was a plethora of noise, now its just the moderate tap of the oiler. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

It done. Its finally done. After months of prepping, planning, tearing down, and putting together, the Super A is whole once again. I would once again like to thank everyone here that has helped and supported me through this. It was a learning process for sure. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Cool. Love learning new things. Thanks guys! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Oooohhh Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Cheap. Get em at the hardware store. In fact, if I look hard enough i bet I could find some in the garage lol. They just hook underneath the floor pan to the pedals. The clutch pedal is tensioned internally. The springs are for the two brakes, just forces them back up so the bands dont sit and rub on the drums They look exactly like this: Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Any news? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

I need new tension springs for my pedals too. They all snapped during removal lol. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Forgive my simpleton question oh great car lords but whats a shaved door? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Mmm this all sounds good. My favorite dish is a proper New England clam chowder. None of that crap New Yorkers eat. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Thanks Frosty and everyone thats been contributing to this thread. Shes coming back together. Everything is going smooth. I just need my welder guy to finish my shifter rail. Looks like a tractor again. Just needs the shifter, PTO\Belt pulley, fenders, rear lift arms, and seat. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Got the new parts and installed the bearings. Shes coming along!

Im leaning towards the second possibility Frosty. Wrong tire size would make it inaccurate in a linear manner. The Phoenix does this on the 14s instead of 15s. OP says its a nonlinear inaccuracy, most likely in the transmission especially since the engine was swapped. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Hmm. Ive never seen a spedo get inaccurate in a nonlinear manner like that. Electronic spedo?