havoc1482

Wat

I weened my engine off old SAE30 non detergent oil. I run 5w30 now. Some folks even run synthetic. Case/IH makes a modern transmission fluid still labeled with the old "Hy-Tran" moniker. I can run modern gear oil in this tractor. I'm fully able to take advantage of modern fluids. The only modern problem is, as we all know, is ethanol fuel eating up carb seals and fuel lines. But thats a secondary issue really

If I get the parts through my Case/IH dealer directly from CNH Global it will run me $185.25. Not bad considering that its a factory provider. I will probably order from CNH for a few reasons. One, I like my dealership. Woodbury Tractor is small and they know me. I'm a name not a number so I enjoy that. Two, I get all the parts I need from one source. Three, its from a source I know is quality. Case\IH is very good about that, even for parts for these 60+ year old machines.

Thanks Frosty . I haven't quite gotten around to new methods of getting that bearing out, but.... I found out where that little piece broke off. I took the shifter rails off the mount and found this on top: Now all thats left is to order the correct parts. I'm going to consult with the other Farmall guys to see if I can still use that shifter rail guide without that little tab, I have a feeling a new one is expensive. I need these: #50 ST213T has been superseded by 210064 #21 ST205A has been superseded by 37203 46282D SEAL OIL SEAL, differential ball bearing retainer (optional with 358773R91 and 358813R91) 358773R91 RETAINER OIL SEAL, differential ball bearing retainer (optional with 46282D and 358813R91) 358813R91 OIL SEAL differential ball bearing retainer (optional with 46282D and 358773R91) The 3 above (46282D, 358773R91, and 358813R91) have been superseded by 71597C91 which takes all 3 and combines them into one single piece. 355740R1 O-RING,3.734" ID x 0.139" Width RING, seal, differential ball bearing retainer, 295075 up Potentially 357538R91 GUIDE gear shift rail, front (will work for 47289DA)

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DIy3BQInZE

Somewhat related. I split the Farmall C at work today, so we can replace the ring gear, clutch fingers\plates, and throwout bearing. Not exactly the same tractor as my Super A, but everything from the transmission forward is the exact same with the exception of the narrow front wheel setup for the tricycle configuration. I got all the knowledge I need if I ever have to replace a clutch without the headache of taking apart my own tractor lol

I thinking the most likely culprit is the shifter rails. I'll have to take those apart. Its the only place in the transmission where there is metal that thin.

Cleaned the entire inside of the Grand Prix. Its like new! I love it lol. I also brought the Phoenix back into the driveway. Brake pedal is to the floor, rear tires wont hold air, and the rear end sags. Engine runs good though, transmission shifts properly, can't find any bad rot, besides the rear bumper which was always ugly. Lights, radio, horn all still work. And no mouse nests inside, interior is still clean. Once the tractor is put back together I'm going to look into getting the rear suspension fixed. I could be the shocks are junk, I can't imagine the leaf springs are bad.

Its all I have. And I'm not about to spend more money on a torch I'll realistically only use once.

Thanks guys. Looks like I need some more propane for my torch lol

I saw that someone just liked my first reply. About how you're a terrible human being. Dammit all Ringo! This reminds me that I'll never get Pontiac back. Just like how I'll never get my innocence back, because its locked in notalltheres basement

So, I don't know how to get this bearing out. All the others (ball bearings) came out with some gently taps. This one isn't budging and I don't want to damage it too much before I take it out to have a look. I plan on replacing it, but its really pissing me off. (If you're wondering what the little pieces on the bottom of the case are, they are glass. The lightbulb above my work bench exploded lol)

I found what punched itself into the oiler gear. This is the only piece in the bottom of the transmission, it was otherwise clean. It matched up perfectly with the groove/damage on the gear. Of course, I have no idea where it came from... I want to think its from the shifter somehow because I'm guessing it fell. I can't find damage anywhere, and that is what concerns me.

I got that key, damn that was so frustrating. I also got this frustrating part done: >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfgO10lEn70 Also, Frosty its not a typo because it appears again a couple lines down. I think its lingo for just keeping it steady and in place as you tap the shaft out. Not that I did haha. I just hammered it through and let the shaft drop the few inches into the housing as I worked it out.

Got the puller. Apparently nobody around here has a 2 jaw puller. I borrowed a 3 jaw from work and it didn't fit, so I just bought a cheap 2 jaw from Sears, about 20 bucks. Flange came off real smooth, but my current problem is THE F*CKING WOODRUFF KEY that it was on. I JUST CAN'T GET THE DAMN THING OUT. And it needs to be removed before I can rubber mallet the mainshaft out the ass end of the case. Recommendations?

Thanks stratman. And IVE SEEN THAT VIDEO haha. All I can think of is those poor clutches and reverse gears. More on topic. Do you think I'll be okay with a little 2 jaw gear puller for the driveshaft flange? Its only about a little bit bigger than my palm in diameter, but its not round. It looks like this. kinda t-shaped. Shop manual just says "using a suitable puller" The manual also says "Remove front bearing retainer and riveted pin which positions reverse gear on spline shaft. Buck up reverse gear and drive main spline shaft rearward and out of case." I have NO clue what "buck up" means lol.

So, I got the transmission off the tractor and onto the bench. I haven't dug much into the transmission yet. I need a damn puller to remove the driveshaft flange before I can pull the main spline shaft out (was really hoping to avoid that). The bearings for the countershaft sound AWFUL. I moved the gears into neutral with my fingers and rotated the differential through the rear so only the countershaft was spinning. Those bearings don't sound too great. Surprisingly the main-shaft bearings are relatively quiet, and I found out that the loud noise in my video was actually two gears rubbing because without the forks to hold them they just slide a little into each other via gravity. I think I'm going to put the shifter back on to test the alignment of the forks. I haven't looked at all 4 bearings, but I'm going to replace them anyways. Cover all the bases and because its a rare occasion I'll be able to dive into them so thoroughly. Last thing I want is to put it back together and something else breaks haha. I found a little piece of metal on the bottom of the case. I haven't gotten it out yet because the shafts aren't out. It looks to be about the size of my thumbnail, but thats all I know so far.

I appreciate the offer man. I don't know if it would be worth if for you to come all the way out here though. Even when I work in it with my friend it always ends up him kinda standing there while I work. Then again you are probably more mechanically inclined than he is haha

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qECR90Qpa8

Its getting torn down regardless. I mean I never really fully looked into the transmission before. For all I know that mark could have been made in the gear before I was even born haha. Hell, that gear in particular can be run with a missing tooth, I've see it before. It bears no load and isn't even steel, its a much softer die-cast zinc. I'll update you guys when I actually remove the transmission box from the tractor.

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0u4M6vppCI

NOISE NOISE NOISE NOISE from the tranny. Have a listen. >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LB8N83tBbk

Siriusmo - Gummiband!