TWO LANE BLACK TOP

The balancer only has one timing mark on it from the factory...Someone else has added the other mark (It was a common practice to use a hacksaw blade to remark it) When the outer ring slipped around the hub...that's why the second mark/ groove looks factory...89000 miles on those old engines is alot...Usually by the time they got to 100,000 miles...plus or minus 10 to 12 thousand miles...Depending on how well they were maintained...They are pretty much due for an overhaul...Unlike modern engines they were actually designed to be rebuilt/overhauled and was considered normal to do so...And alot of dealer service departments actually did overhauls in house...All the major components... starters...alternators/generators...Power brake boosters... Distributors... water pumps..Ect..Were all designed to be serviceable....During that era... They were not designed/made to last 200,000 plus... Miles and then throw them away/Replace like modern day engines/components are...

Just as a mention...Sometimes on older high mileage engines the outer ring of the balancer can slip around the hub as the rubber wears/deteriorates between the outer ring and the hub...It is actually a very common issue...Rendering the TDC mark (on the outer ring) Completely inaccurate...If that has happened...When you line up the zero Mark on the balancer and the zero mark on the timing tab the engine will not actually be at top dead center...But a few degrees off...That is probably why you have two Mark's on the damper as someone in the past has remarked TDC..to compensate for the outer ring slipping around...Only way to really know 100% for sure...Would be to manually find TDC..(both the intake and exhaust valves fully closed and the piston at its highest point in the #1 cylinder) and look to see which mark if either one lines up to the zero mark on the timing tab...If neither mark lines up after manually setting TDC to the timing tab..You can put you own 0 mark on the damper then use that mark to accurately set the timing... Most engines like around 34 degrees of total timing... Might be something to look at/consider....

You can't go by How good the float/Needle and seat may look...Replace Them.. Also pay close attention to the holes in the base plate where the rod that the throttle plates are attached to...Rides/goes thru..Make sure that the guide holes are not worn or oblonged and that the rod is not worn on the ends and fit snugly with no excessive play or run out...As it will cause a vacuum leak...Some kits are more complete than others..If you can get one with the float included that would be good... So shop around...Also most carburetor kits will have extra parts and gaskets so the same kit could be used in different model/Variations of the same basic carb...

I think that you will do just fine...Just don't let yourself be intimidated...Before you even get started...I have done a couple of TH 350s/400s...And a Powerglide... Watched my dad do at least a dozen of them... Various kinds..(Dynaflows..Turboglides..Tourque Flights...ETC..) When I was a kid...Take pics for reference if needed...Main thing and very important...When you clean the parts..Air Dry everything... Don't use shop rags to wipe Any of parts down after they have been cleaned.....As any protonacios lint of anykind on any of the parts will/can cause issues...Can't stress that enough...Cleanliness...Cleanliness...Cleanliness... Also section 7d in your 1963 Pontiac manual is comprehensive and contains all procedures and details..Would not be a bad idea to read through it before you get started...Once you get the rebuild done.. You will be pleasantly surprised at how easy it really was...

Doesn't the starter Mount to the Bell housing Instead of the engine block on the pre 1965 model cars...??? If that is the case...Would the later (BOP) models Turbo Hydramatic 350/400 TH 200 transmissions still be... Compatible/Adaptable with the earlier 389 engines...???

The Carburetor appears to a Rochester 2GV...With a Divorced Choke (hot air) Yes that is Bad should Not be leaking gas out of it anywhere...It will never run right if at all in that condition... Cold hard reality is to either rebuild/replace the carburetor...Anything else would be a waste of time/effort... The 7043066 number you need when acquiring a rebuild kit... Rebuild kits cost around the $50.00 range...Some kits are better than others as some of the cheaper ones may not have every part that you need... One other thing Rochester 2GV carbs are two different sizes...Either 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch venturie sizes...If you get good used carb from a different car Measure the throats (venturies) first to make sure they the same size as the carburetor on your car... TLBT...

Welcome... Good looking car..

Fun is what cars are all about..I'm getting ready to go hit my favorite stretch of highway and drive my 1LE Firebird 150 MPH...Within the next hour...🏁🏁🏁

More than Happy to help..🍻

Kiwi.. Have been doing some more research...on the Jetaway transmission on a couple of different sites...According to One site...Called Transmission Charlie.. https//www.charlietranny.com The Superhydra-Matic...Is also referred to as the Jetaway 315... After looking at the 1964 supplement again I noticed this.. So I'm thinking the Supr hydra matic and the jetaway 315 may be one in same...But not 100% sure...

The 1963 manual also contains a section detailing the Complete service...Maintenance and Tear down and Rebuild of the SuperHydra-matic trans...

Think this is the info that you're seeking...The only Auto transmissions I see listed in any of the Manuals are the Roto Hydra-Matic..And the Super Hydra-Matic..There is No mention of the Jet Away Trans...in either the 1963 chassis manual or the 1964 chassis manual...Which is Supplement for the 63 manual..According to the info on the ID tag on your Transmission you have the Super hydramatic...Hope this helps...

Yeah it does suck for sure.. The exact same same thing (cross threaded castle nut) happened To me recently when I ruined a new trailer axle spindle...By the time I realized what was happening ...It was too late...The damage had already been done...

It's all good...Sometimes Shit just happens....

Yeah..It is in pretty bad shape...But..There is another option besides welding up the shaft and rethreading....That may work really well... You might be able to "pin" the nut and shaft...What I mean by that is...If when the steering wheel is seated all the down..If It is even with the top of the spline...There is still some threads left right above the spline...There also appears to be a couple of threads left at the top of the shaft.. First thing to do would be to file down the high spot where the threads are gaulded up... To the point to where it is even or justa below the circumference of the shaft being really careful not to hit the the existing threads at the top of of the shaft...Use a thread file ...To carefully straighten out the few threads at the top of the shaft... justa be really careful take your time and pay close attention....Once you get the top threads straightened out enough to where a nut will start...Take your time and check and double check that the nut is starting on the shaft straight...Once that is accomplished...Use the thread file to clean up what is left of the threads above the spline...Then carefully run the nut down until it bottoms out against the spline...Don't use any unnecessary excessive force when snugging the nut..Carefully...Take the nut back off..The put the steering wheel back on the spline insuring that it is clocked right...(you will only have one shot to get it right) Then carefully run the nut down against the wheel...Once that is done...Use the proper sized drill bit..for a 1/8 (.125) split roll pin...Then drill a hole with the center line between the shaft and the nut..Once that is done drive the pin into the hole and cut it off even.. It doesn't matter if there are no threads contacting the inside of the nut all the way down just as long as the remaining threads Above the spline are still intact...The Roll pin will effectively hold everything tightly together and keep the nut/shaft as one unit..Forever.. If you ever need to remove the steering wheel again you can drill the pin out...and everything (nut) will come back off just like before... That is an option...if you really don't want to remove/replace the steering column... Firm believer that anything can be fixed if your in a desperate situation...And there are absolutely no other options available.... Justa thought I would mention it...🤔 If for nothing else but entertainment purposes... TLBT..

Justa to satisfy my own curiosity...Would it be possible to post a couple of detailed pics of the threads and the nut...??

Man.. That's Fucked up.. Well at least the scumbags didn't hack the rest of the car...With a sawzall/Cutting torch..ETC.. Hopefully if they are putting the components in another car it will slip off the stands/lift and crush their low life asses to death....

Personally I would be very Tempted to fix the original column...Although it can be a tedious and aggravating operation and requires alot of patience... If you decide to go with the tilt wheel...I would agree with Kiwi...It would be hard to go wrong with an OEM unit.. GM..Non tilt column...

Are you 100% positively without a doubt sure that there is no water or some other contaminants in the gas tank...?? Would highly suggest that you isolate tank like I explained earlier...Then go from there...

Can't really tell...But most GM 2bbl carbs..From that era...Would be a Rochester two jet...

Does the the car Have a Quadrajet Carburetor...?? A quick easy way to insure a clean fuel supply..Would be to get a gallon of fresh gas in a clean regular gas can...Then Unhook the Main gas line from the tank...At the inlet side of the fuel pump...Run a piece of clean rubber gas hose from the inlet side of the pump right into the gas can...That will isolate the fuel system from any crap/blockages that may be in the lines or the gas tank..If the car has Q-jet carb..There is a filter at the gas inlet at the carb...Make sure it is clean Or temporarily remove it..Try to start the car and see what happens...Then we will go from there... Just dumping gas down the carb like that is counter productive...If the fuel bowl in the carb is empty..Due to lack of gas coming from the fuel pump...you can dump all the gas in the world down the carb and it still won't run right or for any length of time...

Has been awhile since I've replaced points...But If I remember correctly there is a packet of lube that comes with the new points...That you smear on the lobe between and the surface where the points contact the cam lobe...and takes the place of the wick... Still suspect Carburetor/ Fuel issue... TLBT..

The plastic piece from the distributor is the Cam lubricator assembly...(part 2A) It is a wick that contains a lubricant that Oils the cam in the distributor that the Breaker Points ride against....

Fun time is over...Have to go back to work now...☹ Ya'll have a good day....

Yes..There is a ground strap between them...