TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Looking for suggestions on what oil to use in my 2007 V star...Been using the Yamalube oil since new..Would like to change to something I can easily get from the local auto parts store...(has a wet clutch) Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated......

Last Indian, Thank you very much for the info....Will try to put it on the rack sometime next week to check to be sure it is still in spec....(hit a really nasty pothole awhile back was too late spotting it and couldn't avoid it)..The main thing I was wondering was if the 1LE had different specs...But apparently it doesn't ... So I'm good to go.....

Happy to help....Good luck with you project TLB..

1976...Should drop in with no problem..with the F body V8 engine mounts and related accessory mounting brackets..ETC..Just make sure that all the bolt holes in the ends of the cylinder heads are on the same side as the original so there will be no issues with the accessory brackets... power steering... AC ...alternator... ETC..

If it is an original 1966 model Chevrolet small block engine it will be either a 283 or a 327 CID..If it has never been rebuilt it will need to have hardened valve seats installed in the cylinder heads to be compatible with today's unleaded gas...Will also more than likely ( unless it has been changed ) have the breaker point distributor rather than a HEI unit..Also unless it has been converted over it will still have the cartridge type oil filter which can pain in the #$s to change and could potentially create a clearance problem with the 3rd gen F body platform...Whereas the 1980 model will already have the hardened valve seats...HEI...and a canister type oil filter....among other things...

No problem .....Thank you for the owners manual...

The factory specs are what I'm looking for...The car handles great and has no problem going where it is pointed..Under certain rare conditions mostly speed related it has a slight understeer but that is easily overcome by adding a little bit of throttle to bring the rear around...I can also change the handling characteristics by playing with the Yellow Koni adjustable shocks... I have the original owners manual and all the related paperwork that came with the car new....But if would like to attach the digital version that would very cool and I would appreciate it....

Does anyone know what or where I could find the factory front end alignment specs for a 1997 Firebird Formula 1LE ...Are they the same as the standard WS6 or are they different..?? Any help or recommendations would be greatly apreciated.....

Yes met up with GE...Hung out for awhile....Didn't really come across any treasures...or good deals..Did see alot of overpriced junk though...Also saw quite a few way over priced cars...I figure they're not really for sale because it is the same cars and owners....(Want #1 money for #4 condition cars) that have been there for the last few years trying to sell... Although I did run across a Can Am.... If I had somewhere dry to put it...I probably could have worked on the guy for awhile and got it for a fair price... It was kinda rough but all the key parts were there and did sort of crank up and run and was (with alot of work) very restorable...Seems that over the last couple years the attendance has been kind of off a little bit compared to what it has been in the past....Will hit it again in September.....

Also shows that the valves are sealing good too....

Welcome to the site......Cool cars.....Have had mine for along time too....still like them as good now as the day they were new.... (96 V6 firebird and a 97 WS6 formula 1LE )

Not really looking for anything special...But you never know..... Yes if you would like to PM me that would be cool.... I understand....I've been told by several people through the years....That I might need some sort of highly specialized therapy too....(LOL)...

I'm going to try to get there Saturday By 8:00 AM myself...The track is about 45 minutes away (Depending on the traffic) from the end of my driveway...Would be interested meeting up with GE....Or any other members who might be in attendance.....

Was wondering if anyone out there will be attending the auto fair at the Charlotte speedway April 4th thru the 7th...??

What exactly is the engine doing or not doing..?? When you installed the balancer on the engine did you have to move it to get the the timing mark to line up with the zero mark on the timing tab...?? If that is the case...The outer ring on old dampers tend to move around rendering the timing mark on it completely inaccurate....

Yes you can run a breather instead of a PCV in the valve cover.. Might have to zip tie a rag around it so you don't wind up with oily film all over everything under the hood... Just out of curiosity what are the cam specs..does it have a lot of overlap..?? Would suggest opening the spark plug gap to .045 with the HEI... Have cut this short ......Wife just got home....Will elaborate more on timing in a couple hours.....

Back in 2012 was building an engine and used a custom grind solid roller from Comp Cams (260 duration @.50..with a 770 lift...109° lobe seperation) as we had been using Comp Cams for years in everything we built with no issues...(we were actually an authorized dealer)..Did everything we normally do when breaking in an engine..Wiped out the cam within the first minute of the initial start up...Upon inspection. We concluded that the lobes weren't hardened like they should have been...Called them up told them what the deal was then sent it back to them...They ground us another one...Again the same issue wiped out almost immediately...Long story short...Went through 3 of them before we got one that worked like it is supposed to...With the spring package that we always use.....Wasn't long after that they called us and said if they were going to warranty their cams anymore... We couldn't use the valve spring package we normally used and to use way weaker springs for the initial run in....Since then whenever we're using a really radical profile in a high dollar race engine we will use the weak springs for the cam break in...However in a run of the mill street engine we will use the valve springs that we are actually going run...Because as Pontiaction eluded to.. It is a pain in the ass to reinstall them on an assembled engine.... Have not had any cam issues since and still use them (Comp Cams) today..and will continue to use them......

Some builders do and some builders don't......Realistically the best thing to do is contact Comp cams and do what they reccomend......

First thing is to make sure that all the battery connections are clean and tight and has a good ground....If all that checks OK then check the connections at the starter solenoid...Look for bad or corroded connections broken wires ETC.. Use a 12 volt test light to verify that you actually have power to the solenoid....should have 12 volts on the main battery terminal on the solenoid all the time....if you have power there then take the test light and ground it to the engine block... Place the other end on the solenoid terminal with the small wires (the S terminal)...have someone turn the key to start the engine if it lights up that means that the switch is functioning correctly....If it does not light up that means the the problem could be the ignition switch itself...Next thing is to put the test light across both the small poles (on the solenoid) have someone try to start the engine again... the light should come on...If it doesn't that indicates a bad solenoid....if all that checks OK.....Then the issue is probably the starter motor....Since it has been sitting for years...the brushes might be sticking..If that is the case sometimes you can take a hammer and lightly tap on the starter to see if they free up...(Will probably be full of corrosion) then try to start again....(Try it a few times) If that doesn't work you will have to remove the starter and either replace it or disassemble it and repair It....(is a repairable/rebuildable unit)....... If you do get the engine to roll over....Would highly suggest that you take the fuel line from the tank to the inlet on the fuel pump loose and run a short hose from a seperate clean container with fresh gas to the inlet of the fuel pump so when it does start you don't suck 30 years worth of crap from the gas tank into the carburetor.......

We (My dad,My brother and I) Gave my 6 year old nephew a tool set and an old completely disassembled ..(Even had the freeze plugs and oil gallery plugs out of it.... distributor and carburetor were completely disassembled too... pistons separated from the rods..etc.. and all the parts thrown into one box)... 348 Chevy engine and a 1958 GM shop manual for Christmas that year(1997).....Over a period of about 3 years..He managed to get it reassembled correctly and make it run with very minimal help from us..( loved it and still says it was the best gift he ever got) ..Went on to graduate top of his class at UTI and is now a very successful mechanic for Duke Energy.......

Have raced circle track (NASCAR Modifieds) a few times in sub freezing weather....takes a few extra green flag laps to get the tires hot but once you get some heat in the tires it's business as usual...The hardest part is figuring out the starting air pressure in the tires to keep the stagger correct as the tires heat up......The engines love the cold air and make some really good power.......as opposed to an 85° 90% humidity...Saturday night.....

Wrongway Is this what you are looking for..??...Hope this helps... Let me know.....

The ignition switch is located on top of the steering column at the bottom toward the floor...and is activated by the locking rod coming down from the key /lock cylinder..Might have to drop the steering column down to access it... The only wires that run inside the column up toward the steering wheel key/lock cylinder would be for the key buzzer ,horn and the turn signals...All the power wires for the starting system will be plugged in at that switch at the bottom.....

Haven't forgotten Ya'll expecting my AC manual today.....