Last Indian

Well, if I follow you correctly it's the guts and probably could be fixed so I would at least keep it as a possible repair for a backup. Does the speedometer work but not the odometer or neither? If it's neither the worm gear that runs off the cable drive, behind the mag drive, is bad and preventing the mag drive from moving. If it's the odometer worm gear or the spur gear so just the odometer doesn't work than it's in that area. See attach pics, the one that's a cutaway is actually from a Porsche, but you get the idea.

Frosty, I think those prices are fair. It's hard to put a price on parts that are basically obsolete when you really need them. One thing that I didn't see Scarlit, is what exactly is the speedometer doing or not doing! Are you 100% sure it's the speedometer? Not a cable or tranny speedometer gear? Just a question, but I didn't see any description of the speedometer issue, so I think it needs asked before you buy something that doesn't fix the problem.

P245/45r18 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3. Phenomenal cornering/handling tire.

Sounds like a noble, noteworthy cause. Enjoy!

Frosty sorry, that’s not me, pulled it of the third gen Camaro site and then labeled it. I never took pictures of my work in those days of racing and building and I rarely let my picture be snapped. The one in ground pounder thread in my 69 is one of the few. And all the stock I once had I disposed of when I ended that era of my life.

The pot metal part that is in hand is the guts. The plastic housing is the part that’s relative to make & model. It carries the odometer numbers cluster, which again when you dismantle that plastic assembly those pieces are interchangeable to other makes and models, or at least they were as I recall. I only ask because in my recollection, most of the failures were the mag drive tiny brass bearing, similar to a clock type mechanism.

Frosty & Justa6, question, it's been quite a few years since I rebuilt a old style magnet drive speedos, but back I the day when I did I seem to recall all GM speedo guts, behind the face plate were the same no matter the year, make, etc. the attaching screw locations in the faceplates simply oriented it in the proper position on the speedo guts. That said those were all still close in relationships. I.E. Camaro, Firebird, Nova, Venture, Apollo, and so on, did that not hold true across the rest of the lines?

Kay, sorry for your dilemma! Unfortunately as far as getting the part from a dealership is concerned there aren’t any. A good friend is the parts manager for the largest GM dealership in the Tri-state area, I had him check and no dealer is showing stock. First go to a NAPA store and see if they can cross reference the part to a Balkamp or Ecklin part. That said I’m attaching a PDF and a print of the junction block this shows a wiring diagram for jumpering around the sensor. Depending on what you want to do, you could setup a momentary relay as a permanent fix if you plan to keep the car. Hope this can help. 2011-10-04_031628_7.pdf

Just wondering who uses what oil type, full synthetic, synthetic blend or conventional and why? We use to ask folks this back in the day before I retired. So I’m curious as to the Pontiac crowd since there is a good blend of engine types all the way up to VVT’s.

Two lane, really really cool! You should tell these guys about the physical stamina it takes to climb straight up that way and high! For about 10 years one of my project was with wind turbines and some were built very similar to a column type cell tower like you’re showing. Although most of those are wrapped with a outer housing, which is a little less interesting as you climb since three quarters of the climb is in the pitch dark. Sorry to say I loved it! But I do have some Sioux blood, so maybe that’s it.

Dwight, my two cents for what it's worth. I’m one of those dinosaurs and what you say you are looking for is generally how I build my cars. I don’t like lowered cars, first it negatively effect handle with respect to being able to align the suspension correctly and there are other ways to lower CG & RC. So one thing most people overlook are the body mounts. These have a huge impact on both ride control and handling. I’m not sure what’s out on the market, but you’ll want to replace them with the stiffest material you can that still has some give. If you can’t find something let me now & I’ll give you some ideas. Also if you’er going to replace the bushings look for polyurethane replacements which will be a big improvement and replace everything front & rear that you can! There are probably even upgraded pieces that will be stiffer. Monroe is a decent shock, but KYB makes some nice gas adjustable shocks, but I would still consider air shocks for the rear as Frosty suggested, no matter what you do or don’t carry, just adjust the air accordingly. Last do an upgrade to the sway bar links, this will really tie the car to the ground without giving a stiff ride.

My mistake Frosty! I should pay better attention to what I read. I saw packed wheel bearings and spindle nut and I guess I saw in my minds eye Timken tapered rollers on front spindles of a rear wheel drive. Duh! 😔