Last Indian

Justa, yes, the offer is open, not quite sure what you are looking for or what both cars are but we can figure that out. If you need an email to talk to me through copy and past this link into the send link.

Attached is a link to Detroit Spring, they should have what you need or can make it! Good luck! There are others, but I've never had any trouble with them! https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/application/catalina-2-2/

Not being familiar with the car, I’ll do my best to answer. I presume it's a double acting clamp with the screw in the middle, this clamps both lines one on each side of the screw? A 10mm head does not mean a 10mm threaded screw. They will use a larger or smaller head screw according to the need and application. Did you need more than that?

Great to hear! My first choice was fuel as you saw, but I’m not familiar with the Edelbrock carb. It's also been a number of years now since my carb days, but I remember how much a carb gasket can effect a 4 barrel & manifold performance.

Also the clicking you spoke of would be the solenoid, due to any of the following. Bad connection/corrosion in negative or positive circuits, including the internals of the solenoid or just a bad solenoid.

Well if it happens immediately, as in turn off the engine and 1 minute later it is hard to start? If this is the case you need to run a compression test both hot and cold. Your description is typical for worn engines.

Welcome! What kind of carb? Rochester? Both holleys & Rochesters as they age have a tendency for the jets to leak when the engine is hot, due to expansion. Than there are the other usual suspects, timing, plugs or wires, etc. How long after shut down does it take to occur, does it only happen when hot?

Justa, question? Could you please take a couple of pictures of the oil fill cap/breather & the valve cover with that piece out so I can see how it is fitted together, I assume just a push in piece, but I can’t tell for sure. Also could you tell me the diameter of the stem part of the oil fill cap, I need that for fitment purposes, that is if you want me to make you a matched set of breathers? If not that cool too!

Frosty, good job! Kill all the electrical engineers! Four generations later and we still have pretty much the same functions with 20 times the cost, 50 times the diagnostics work and cars still weigh the same despite all the talk of reducing weight through electrical wire and component mass!

Wow! That’s a lot of work to throw in the towel! You do have enough cooling area, you just have close to 50% blocked! No matter what you do with fans, thermostats, lines or the like you’re trying to exchange heat in a radiator that’s up against a wall. That aluminum plate is not a shroud it's blockage and creates turbulence in the air flow that is trying to move through the two openings that are there. Take off the aluminum plate! Than run the car on the road or at least run a large fan in front of the car, leave the electric fans on the front in place, than see what you get.

Dr. Jones, sorry for your dilemma and sorry if I miss step here, but I didn’t have time to read the whole post. So if I suggest or repeat what has been said already my apologies. A couple things strike me though! Electric fans really don’t work that well for big motors or big HP! The pitch on the fans is not that good, small blades, no length to the foil, physics law! So a four row radiator is actually a lot of resistance, so the air tends to spill off and not go through even when it seems to. I’m not saying you can’t do it, but it’s difficult. Also fans pushing and pulling not a good idea, causes way to much turbulence. If you were going to try to run electric fans, the ones you have in front (black) should be the only ones. They have a bigger pitch to them, but I would run them on the pull side. Then still follow the advice I give below about the short nose pump and making or buying a shroud. So the shroud, I apologize up front for saying this, is bad! The air moving through a radiator is like a carb, the straighter the more efficient it is. In my opinion, which is based on the work I’ve done for years in racing and specifically with my Z/28, which are notorious for this problem. Likewise the Z ran a big oversized 4 row radiator and overheated! Why? Because I put electric fans on, 1983 or somewhere in that time frame. It was new and I thought clean and cool. Took off the shroud and whalah overheating. So my 2 cents worth, get rid of the electric fans, get rid of the current shroud covering the radiator, buy a short nose water pump, put the stock size pulley back on the pump, I like the one you have it just needs to be the stock size, buy a good clutch fan and buy or build a shroud that basically cones from the radiator to just about an 1” past the tips of the fan blades. See example of the Z.

Justa, thanks about the air cleaner, the actual surface area was 1 ½ times larger than the stock piece as it was open all the way around and on top too. Attached in a link to summit’s page for ¾ stem diameter breathers if you wanted to consider that route. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/valve-cover-breathers?N=4294916373 That said the offer still stands, I’d be happy to cobble up an oil cap breather & a breather for the other side to match. I usually do polished aluminum. It wouldn't be till winter when things slow down a bit so you would still need something in the interim.

Justa6, just to clarify, is the hole in the valve cover 1” or would the I.D. of the grommet for a breather be 1”? Because if you would like to use a breather on that side Summit Racing has quite a few different style breathers in various stem sizes, 1.25, 1, .750 etc. or if you like I could make you one, depending on what you wanted. Just food for thought!

Did you by any chance try NAPA?

Steve, a couple things if I may? I’m not clear how you have the motor setup, but in general pcv systems like to breathe through both heads, I.E. valve covers. Such as pcv valve in one cover, air cleaner hose setup in the other or preferably air cleaner hose and breather in the other. In the older engines were the pcv was in the intake manifold both covers would have breathers. The one inch hole usually was for a pcv valve or the air cleaner hose, I have some if you need one I could get it to you if you like? In the attached picture of my 302 engine the left side has a front breather back is an oil cap. Right side is front and rear are both breathes, no pcv at all. I did away with it. Pcv was kind of worthless in the Z sine it only pulled 4 inches of vacuum in an idle. This setup really breathed very well, but I would have to clean them every 5 to 6 hundred miles. If you want one of the grommets let me know which one, they all fit a 1 inch hole. If you don’t want to run a breather in it I’ll send a nice looking SS plug to fill it!

Really nice car Frosty, love the interior color combo! Sorry about the thread issue, you said the pitch was different, makes me think they use British pipe instead. British pipe is one thread different, 19 tpi instead of 18 tip. If it was meteric the diameter wouldn't be close. Either way too bad!