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Shakercars's 1972 Trans Am

2019 August
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Is it really necessary to remove the inner valve springs while breaking in a new cam on a freshly rebuilt 400. Im using a Comp xe262 cam (hyd flat ) with iron heads at 80cc 9.5-1 compression with 1.5 roller tip rockers. Nothing crazy, just a nice street engine. 

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Posted (edited)

Some builders do and some builders don't......Realistically the best thing to do is contact Comp cams and do what they reccomend......

Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

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Yeah, that's probably what I'll do, it's just such a pain to reinstall the inner springs with the heads installed on the engine. I've built  Pontiac engines many years ago and we never went through this procedure and never had any problems. Thanks for the advice. 

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I installed a new COMP cam in my build also. I called the tech line and asked the same question. I was told by their tech that it IS a good idea but not necessary just make sure to use the lube they sent with the cam. So I assembled the engine, started it and ran it per their specs and haven't had any issues. But as Black Top said, a call couldn't hurt. They may tell you something different. Good luck and shoot us some pics sometime bro.

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I called Comps tech line this afternoon and explained the situation. They gave me the same basic answer that they gave to Wrongway. We recommend you do but.... sounds like a lawyer told them to include this procedure as a way to get out of any warranty issues. Thanks for your input guys, I appreciate it. I'm just going to put it together and break it in like I have many times before. Will shoot you some pictures soon. 

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Exactly what I thought when I talked to them bro. Good luck with her 😁

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Back in 2012 was building an engine and used a custom grind solid roller from Comp Cams (260 duration @.50..with a 770 lift...109° lobe seperation) as we had been using Comp Cams for years in everything we built with no issues...(we were actually an authorized dealer)..Did everything we normally do when breaking in an engine..Wiped out the cam within the first minute of the initial start up...Upon inspection. We concluded that the lobes weren't hardened like they should have been...Called them up told them what the deal was then sent it back to them...They ground us another one...Again the same issue wiped out almost immediately...Long story short...Went through 3 of them before we got one that worked like it is  supposed to...With the spring package that we always use.....Wasn't long after that they called us and said if they were going to warranty  their cams anymore... We couldn't use the valve spring package we normally used and to use way weaker springs for the initial run in....Since then whenever we're using a really radical profile in a high dollar race engine we will use the weak springs for the cam break in...However in a run of the mill street engine we will use the valve springs that we are actually going run...Because as Pontiaction eluded to.. It is a pain in the ass to reinstall them on an assembled engine.... Have not had any cam issues since and still use them (Comp Cams) today..and will continue to use them......

 

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The biggest reason you will wipe a cam at start up is using the WRONG oils for break in. You must use the break in oils today as the oils that are sold for cars today don't use any ZZDP & the newer oils are JUNK for older flat tappet cams. You MUST use the break in oils & then use the oils that have the correct amount of ZZDP in them or you will wipe out the cam every time. It's not because the cams aren't hardened it's the oil your using. Because of the gov. ZZDP was taken out of most all newer oils, thats why you MUST buy the custom oils for ALL flat tappet cams,,, our older cars or you will damage your engine over a short time because there is no ZZDP in those oils. Most all newer engine have roller cams which don't require ZZDP ,,,,, but it's a must with flat tappet cams. If you don't engine failure is YOUR fault not the cams.

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