Last Indian

I go back to my original statement, the idle/tensioner pulley is bad, but in this case both the supercharger idler/tensioner is gone, or at least in the video it does not appear to be turning, I.E. not rotating at all and the one for the main belt has a bad bearing which is making the noise and if you look you can see it bouncing. Which indicates a bad bearing. I would also check for an exhaust leak because it sounds like one as well. It could be at the donut gasket for the crossover. I would still think that the radiator cap is causing the collapsed up radiator hose. If you loosen the cap to the first click and drive the car and the hose doesn’t collapse it’s probably the cap. Also the fact that you said the reservoir was dry indicates the cap isn’t working, and not allowing the fluid to transfer back and forth.

Sorry for your trouble Lynn, but Frosty is right we will do all we can to help, no judgments here! The top radiator hose is most likely either the radiator cap or the run/return line from the overflow reservoir to the radiator, but the cap would be my bet. He should not have left the thermostat out, you need to get a new one back in as soon as possible in this cold weather. Not good for the motor and you will not have very good heat. The ticking or tapping is very possibly the idler pulley bearing based on what else has been done. And the miss fire of #3 may be a bad spark plug wire or plug, but since they were replaced my bet would be the coil pack.

What Frosty says is accurate, & usually the problem as you won’t see an ABS light unless you hit the brakes hard enough to activate the ABS manifold. If you have or can get an OBDii tool it will tell you which wheel is the culprit.

Great news Bob, looks good and correct! Like Frosty said, let us know if you see some noticeable improvement.

Pictures are good, but there’s nothing like being there, but I’m not, so I would offer this advice. A sway bar usually does not stick up as high as the upper part of the frame, so I think it’s upside down, but let’s assume that it’s right. Take both end links off and rotate the bar until the eyelets are parallel with the lower Aarm. If you encounter no interference with the frame or any other suspension component and you can see that there is nothing that might become interference with some additional movement than that’s were the bar needs to set. So you may have to get or make new end links because the ones you have are to short. Also as a side note, it may just be the picture, but it appears you have no rubber bushing between the lower Aarm and the washer of the end link, is that correct? If so you need washers and rubber bushings on both sides of the Aarm where the end link bolt goes through, still I presume it’s the picture. That said the bar may still be upside down! I have seen bars that will go on either way, but keeping the end links as short as possible makes for a better transfer of energy without defection. So I would still recommend flipping the bar to see were it orients to in relationship to a horizontal position of the eyelets to the lower Aarms. Following the same observation as suggested above. If there is no interference with the frame, Aarms or other suspension parts and you have a reasonable distance between the eyelet bottom and the Aarm (2”) is enough, I would go with the shorter end links.

Obviously I’m not there to see it’s orientation, but the sway bar attaches to the top side of the frame, at least normally, which is a fix position of height. A certain portion of the ends of the bar curve downward towards the Aarms and levels out. Yours appears to curve upward, so you are then pulling the eyelet of the bar down to meet the end link. That places the eyelet on an angle instead of being level. Or so it appears in your picture. This would not be the first time I’ve seen this happen.

I may be wrong, but I don’t think so! The bar is upside down! You need to flip it, left side on the right and right side on the left. Sway bars have a specific curve to them that orients them flat or not when installed. If you flip it, it won’t be flat, like yours!

Well IMO the headlights for GPs 97-09 we’re pretty poor as far as lightning the road! There are some nice aftermarket units that are projection headlights & projection headlights do a much better job at directing the light where it belongs. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/ This is a great place to buy from, knows their stuff & if you go with a place like this you can get a plug and play set up, but you’ll have to get the headlights from some one else, they only deal with the lights.

You guys are way to kind, but thanks! Merry Christmas to all and a Happy New Year!

Copy that!! & Special thanks to Ringo64 for guidance, support and a quality site!

Well, fa la la! Got a chance to start the rear cover widening I spoke of a while back. For whatever reason Pontiac really started to narrow the back cover after the tires. So as you can see when the rims are widened and wider tires are installed the tires when viewed from the back appear the stick out quite a bit. It doesn’t look that way when viewed from the front just the back. So I’m widening the a new rear cover to change this! Current cover look. New cover same as current look. Same as current look. Right side widened look ( about 2” wider ) Right side widened look, needed to relieve the inset panel to keep it from distorting the exhaust port opening. Left side stock look ( about 2” narrower ) than the right side. ( I’m working on yours too Frosty ☃️ ! )

Welcome Colin! the only viable way to do what you ask would require you to drop the headliner and splice the mirror lights wires into the dome light wires! For the work, effort and possibility of damage to something, like the headliner I would advise against it.

We would need a little more information than that to answer with any good advice! What kind of Edelbrock? Two barrel, 4 barrel? High rise, duel plane, torquer? What kind of carb? What is the intake lift & duration, exhaust lift & duration, overlap? What kind of vacuum are you pulling at idle & in gear? Do you know? What kind of torque converter? What kind of 350 6 cyl version or V8? Do you know for sure? I owned a Z/28 for 35 years. To make a long story short, I put a 350 turbo in from a 6 cyl, than heavily modified it, more clutch an friction plates, a Fairbanks shift kit, (the only one worth putting in), 6 cyl converter. I ran 4 11 gears. It was a 600 hp 302 DZ motor! From a stand still it would not spin the tires! Because in gear at idle it pulled 4” of vacuum! But it was an 11 second car! On the street from a light just about anything could beat it of the line, but after 30 feet the only thing they could see was tail lights getting smaller! So my point is what is it you what vs what do you really have that maybe you don’t have setup just right!

See I feel like the wheel black out between the spokes makes the wheel appear weak. And gives the appearance of the car sitting flimsy shoes, but a solid polished aluminum or chrome wheel gives a stout/strong appearance, IMO.

Frosty, clearly your choice all the way! No one knows your taste or preferences like you, but since you asked for some input I’ll give my cent and a half! I love the old classic muscle car look as much as anyone! Still I feel there are always things that can be borrowed from the past as well as the past borrowing from modern looks. To not drone on and keep this short, I like the Foose look! With the right offset and tire combo I think it would change Lucy in a good way, more aggressive! I would look at 17” or 18” honestly! another wheel you might look at is the wheels I have on the Indian. There 18” , but can pass for 19” because of how the wheel is made. It’s actually made backwards, so the spokes on the larger inside diameter. It looks like the Foose is done the same way! The Michelin pilot sport A/S 3 is some of the best rubber I’ve run in a long time! Ok maybe it was a full two cents worth.

Yes I know that color combo! I love black, to me nothing says killer like a impeccable, flawless black car, but I do understand getting away from it for a change! That’s why the Indian is Midnight Blue! So I think that color combo would look great, maybe with an SS in blue on the silver? And possibly the right color pinstripe? My buddy has the black and silver SS that was in the pics I posted from my company’s United Way campaign car show.

An “87” ? If it’s in restorable condition, doesn’t need major work like floor or bed replacement and you can get it, I would grab it. They are becoming more rare by the day. If cloning isn’t out of your vocabulary, a Black SS would be drop jaw eye catching!

Ok, sounds good Frosty!

Settling an estate of any size that involves property and assets of relevant value is always a daunting task! I feel for you, but it sounds like there will be some toy rewards for the effort!? 🤔 Sure I could do, “The Jury” emblem for the grille. Just pm me some pics of the front grille, where you want it and a ball park figure of the overal size you think you want it. You won’t need to chrome it as it will be polished aluminum, but the backing fire 🔥 ball can be painted. I presume what you are referring to when you say the jury is the one I’ve seen on the side fenders of Pontiac Lemans?

Thanks Mark I appreciate it! Thanks Frosty! How have you been? what did you have in mind to fab?

Thanks buddy! How’s every little thing? Haven’t talked to you much as of late.

Thanks buddy!

I realized I never finished the update of the new style front cover and lower splitter or the new shifter setup. So here it is. Also this off season (winter) I’m going to modify a new back bumper cover and stretch it in width to give a more aggressive look to the rear of the car and try to get rid of that, tires sticking out past the back cover look you get from behind the car! The below view of the current bumper cover will be the new project in widening a new cover to encapsulate the rear tires.

Very interesting to see someone else’s take on how they would do a repair! Always more than one way to skin a cat you know! With the equipment he has I would have thought he would take a different path.

DaBear, as I said the parts aren’t cheap, but they are worth the price if the car is! If you try to go that route you’ll need to find a good GM dealer who knows how to find the parts, all dealers are not equal! Some, but not all of the part # are: 10290648, 10321354, 10321355, 10326351, 10326352, 10326353, 10436587, 10436588, 10421789, 10409206. I could go on, but these should help if you are interested in the OEM path. Those parts alone totaled $700 and I buy for body shop price, sometimes less.