Last Indian

1 hour ago, Frosty said:

I will take a hard look Last Indian. Thanks.

Fond these, maybe their good, maybe not.  https://www.opgi.com/lemans/GT03435/

1 hour ago, Frosty said:

Thanks for the tip. I will consider your offer.

I downloaded their catalog. They only have battery cables listed for '67-70 GTO/Lemans (which I can use).

Frosty, if you go to their home page than pick products from the menu there is page after page of products, but mix in are the battery cables. Some are for 1972 455 cid  Cutlasses & Skylarks, maybe those will work better?

4 hours ago, Frosty said:

Okay guys, looking at my battery cables on Lucy and I see the insulation is starting to shrink away from the post connector on both the positive and negative leads, exposing some of the copper wire. Not a good situation IMO. Time to replace the battery cables with new ones. I run an Optima battery in Lucy, so it has both top posts and side posts. So I really don't care which style of battery cable I run, so long it looks good and it's safe. 1972 was the first year for side post batteries in many GM vehicles, so having side posts is not period incorrect for Lucy.

After looking at the online parts catalogs: YearOne, Summit Racing, NPD, OPGI, Rock Auto and Jegs - I can't seem to find a matching set of positive and negative cables that fit Lucy. I often find the battery to ground cable but not the matching one to the starter.

So does anyone have a recommendation where I can order a matching set of direct-fit, "non-universal kit" battery cables for a '72 Lemans/GTO?

Thanks guys!

 

Well, first off try this place. https://www.americanautowire.com/  they appear to carry both side & top mount & both positive & ground. 

That said would you want to try something different? Something a little more; well me😁. If so let me know and we can pursue that course. If not I’m confident the standard type cables are adequate.

2 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Not the best pic's, but mine are chrome with plastic/rubber looms on the ends that hold the wires.  Never had a prob.

Yup! Those are good, the plastic heads insulate the wires from ground!

9 hours ago, Smorggy said:

Hello y'all, I have a 1992 Pontiac Grand Prix, Its the Richard Petty Edition and I love it I don't want to do much to it but sound is one thing that I want to change on it. I'm wondering if anyone has heard any of these cars with a different exhaust or with a muffler delete. It has a 3.4L DOHC V6. I live in NC and I know it doesn't have to pass emissions because of the year but I don't know if I want to straight pipe it or just delete the mufflers or get new mufflers. I'm open to all options here. 

Also the car has a rev limiter as to where if i'm in park or neutral I can't go over three thousand which is a bummer to me and I was wondering if any of ya'll know how to get rid of it or if I should just go to the dealer and ask them to take the limiter off. Thanks for taking the time to read

 

 

33 minutes ago, Ringo64 said:

For the exhaust, it really comes down to preference. Personally, I am not a big fan of straight pipes so perhaps a nice glass pack and mufflers would do well to give you that rasp but not lose any performance due to straight pipes.

For the rev limiter, they are there for a reason from the manufacturer so I would not recommend removing it but I would assume the rev limiter is electronically limited in 1992 so may be able to find a tuner that can remove it. 

I would agree with Ringo! The 3.4 like the 3.8 is sensitive to exhaust configuration! What you might think sounds good can actually hurt power! If you want a more robust sound without losing power look at exhaust manifolds, both sides, as well as the down pipe/catalytic converter, but the exhaust after the cat leave alone. There are aftermarket down pipes/cats that can double the cfm of the OEM cat. There are also some aftermarket down pipes with no cat. 

The rev limiter is there for the very reason you what to remove it. When you free rev any engine, not in gear, you always run the risk of floating a valve! And that will cost you dearly! 

51 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Wire looms are one thing I do NOT have Last Indian. I will check to see what Summit or Rock Auto might have - in both AC plug wires and wire looms. Thanks for the recommendation.

You don’t need to go expensive with the wire looms. Just something that allows you to keep the wires where you what them, but I would suggest plastic ones. Using metal ones can cause a shorting between wires when interconnected. Especially when rpms increase! When rpms increases resistance for the spark can increase. This resistance can sometimes jump through the insulation of the wire taking the path of least resistance, the metal wire loom, causing a basic short to the other wires! 

While this is a completely different setup than your here’s what mine looks like.

On 8/26/2019 at 10:17 AM, Frosty said:

Lucy got some love this weekend. She got a new set of spark plugs. Some NOS AC Spark Plugs (Flint made of course) R44TS, gapped to .035.

Sorry this is upside down - I feel like I'm Indyman Joe now! LOL! Sorry Joe!

I think it's time for new plugs after almost a decade! Sorry about the bad focus!

I discovered the #7 spark plug wire was coming in contact with something and it was partial melted thru. So now I need to replace the set. Any suggestions? These are OER correct reproductions for a '72 Pontiac engine. They've worked fine. I am just wondering if there is something a little more dressy. I am kinda getting away from the stock look these days. I temporarily fixed it with electrical tape for now but I need to order a new set of plug wires this week.

One of the alternator brackets had lost nearly all of it's paint. I repainted the bracket and touched up two others with self-etching primer and Eastwood Underhood black paint.

Finally I purchased a new carb fuel filter, PCV valve. and replacement belts (AC, alternator, and power steering) belts on Lucy - although I am hold off on installing the air conditioning belt for now. Since the AC has not worked in the 25+ years I've owned the car, I decided not to re-install it until I get the AC repaired - which is on my (eventual) to do list.

 

I don’t know, a snowman, aka frozen water & electricity doesn’t sound like a good idea!

That said, I would look for a set of right angle AC delco wire that would work. It’s hard to beat AC’s. The one thing you might consider, if you don’t already have them, are good wire  looms! Ones that attach to the valve covers as well as ones that fasten to the wires down closer to the boots, but not metal!

3 hours ago, Frosty said:

I love your goal too. I love putting rice rockets back in the bowl.  Since this is primarily a street car and part time race car, you have to be able to live with it on the street.

Indyman Joe's car is a good example. He has a stout 400 under the hood of his '72 Luxury Lemans. It's strong. He does the occasional 1/4 mile just to beat his buddy's big dollar Camaro. However, Joe's car is still a street car that he can take cruising or on long weekend and Sunday drives with his wife. It has no roll cage, stock interior, no line lock, but it does have a Ford 9" rear end and 4-wheel disc brakes (now). Someday he may actually paint it (sorry Joe - you know I had to kid you about it!). 

True, true! My “69” Z was that car! As a new car it was a great all around car! Quick, fast and semi comfortable for a sports car. Yet over the 35 years of ownership I did end up going to far from a comfort perspective, or at least so my wife said. 😞 

A 600hp mid 10 second car that pulled 1 & a quarter Gs on a 300 ft skid pad wasn’t that great for the street except for short durations. 3800 rpm @ 55mph 6 mpg. A fairly stock exhaust that you could hear coming due to the rumble 2 blocks away. All  were part of the reason I sold it after 35 years of ownership!

1 hour ago, Kurk_Kurk said:

Hitting those Rice rockets is my pastime but i want to make sure i can embarrass them with a Naturally Aspirated Motor. So in a sense, i will be racing with the engine. not every day, but i will be frequent enough to the point where i want to be able to drive the car home from the track every race. And i've already gotten the new Posi rear, 3.75 gear, rear disc brake conversion, suspension and all the other goodies. It's just a matter of getting the parts on since she's undergoing some SERIOUS metal work on the floors and rails. 

Super friggen useful to know. might be why the Girdle comes with studs and nuts too. But i think i'll be taking the Girdle route as it's more Peace Of Mind.

Nothing wrong with that!!

As a side bar, a couple of things you can do to improve 2 bolt main performance is this. Replace the bolts with studs! The proper studs will be stronger & the corresponding nuts will be stronger. Also use permatex aviation form a gasket on the stud threads on insertion of the stud. It is at this time you should torque the studs independent of the caps. Then when you install the caps over the studs apply this same permatex to the top threads, install the nut and torque the cap.

20 hours ago, Kurk_Kurk said:

No photos this time, unfortunately but i took my entire engine apart and took a good look at the bearings. Apparently i was leaking oil out of the oil pan faster than i could keep up so i need new bearings, which is no big deal. I already have an aluminum oil pan, black and silver finned ready to install. HOWEVER i need some mucho geniuses here.

I have the 2 bolt main Block. Not very strong, safe zone is up to 500hp and i understand this. The current engine components already make up to 420hp with a stock specification crank shaft. I've recently found that there is a Main Girdle i can use which essentially makes the block a 10 bolt main by connecting all bearings, increasing its strength and reliability to pump out more than 500hp. Great right? Now, since that's an option, would it be okay to throw in a stroker crank and make this into a 383 stroker? or would doing this be too risky?

Well actually a 2 bolt main can handle 600 hp & 7000 rpm, but there is a lot that goes with that statement! If you’re talking racing? Than no! If you’re talking street once in a while then yes. Main cap flex in a 2 bolt starts at just under 600 hp and about 6000 rpm. The advantage of this type of build is more low end power, if done right. The disadvantage is if you get over zealous & fuel economy. 

So in general I would skip the girding and just do a good build. 

I love it buddy! Looks to have been a good time for all!! 

Does anyone have a wipe, I think I wet myself 😮!

55 minutes ago, JUSTA6 said:

Heading down now to play for the day as they are calling for storms/T storms anytime 5pm and beyond.  So far claiming Saturday will hold off the rain until at least 6pm.   I can't believe it.  The county is dumping cloride  (helps keep dust down on our dirt roads)  But it is 5 times more corrosive then road salt.  They dump it so heavy it turns the road to slop.  Now I have to drive over a mile to pavement multiple times in the next 2 days.   Freakin wonderful.....

Hope the weather holds for you guys! Terrible about the chloride, I feel for you! Why don’t they use road oil? Not that that makes any less of a mess, but at least it’s not corrosive!

On 8/12/2019 at 8:30 AM, Frosty said:

The greatest automotive car cruise week in Michigan has officially begun! 

I hope you guys have great weather and a even better time. I thought I might make it up there to see you all this year, but that just doesn’t look like it’s in the cards, sorry!

Well I’m JustA saying Happy Birthday to JustA6! 

Way to go, one more year and you can hit good old Uncle Sam up for your inheritance!😁

Happy Birthday buddy!!

5 hours ago, Geedubb said:

Wow, sounds great but suspect it is beyond my ability to do.  I did check compression in each cylinder and they are within 8 psi of each other.  I have read about hot rod engines that have to have significant vacuum pump to decrease crankcase pressure.  There are expensive electrical flow meters beyond reasonable price (more than rebuild).  Engine was rebuilt about 25,000 miles ago (1985).  Only recently started leaking problem.  I have recently replaced power brake booster and 4-wheel disc brakes.  Noting that the brakes work great but would new booster contribute to problem?  Got my license in this one family car in 1968 and have owned it since 1974.  I need to figure this out.  Thanks for your feedback.

Ok, let’s back this up for a minute. First it is possible that you don’t have to much blow-by! If you don’t have oil depositing at the oil fill, the PCV or valve cover gaskets, but only a rear seal leak, than that doesn’t mean crank case pressure. 

First, what was the condition of the crank journal where the seal runs? The seal could have been put in wrong or nicked. If the journal was polished for the new seal that needs done properly, otherwise that can actually induce leakage as rpms increase.

Finally, you need to step through this step by step. First find a rubber hose that fits over the dipstick tube, connect the other end to a pressure gage. If the reading is under a pound or less the problem is the rear main. 

3 hours ago, Geedubb said:

Do you know of a fairly inexpensive but effective device?  Guess I could block oil port in valve cover and connect to pcv grommet at intake?  Interesting that no oil accumulates at oil spout breather.

An accurate as well as inexpensive test is a leak down test. This may be preformed in different ways, but all serve the same purpose. Put air in each cylinder with all valves closed and see how long that cylinder holds pressure. There is a tool that allows you to replace the spark plug, connect a compression gage and an air chuck. With this arrangement you bring each cylinder, one at a time, to TDC. This closes the valves for that cylinder, add 150 psi, close the air port off, read the compression gage and wait to see how long it holds pressure. This tells you what your blow-by is in each cylinder.

57 minutes ago, Geedubb said:

Had rope seal and began leaking, then recently replaced with new 2 piece viton by instructions.  Pulled engine.  Mechanic did work. Does not leak at idle, only when increase rpm.  Suspect old seal was ok and that I have increased crankcase pressure at higher rpm than idle. Really not sure.  Considering addition of vacuum pump.  PCV works.  Appreciate info on best solution.  

Well that’s a possibility, but easy to check! Measure the blow-by. Or dump the PCV and put in breathers on both valve covers.

1 hour ago, Geedubb said:

Recently replaced rear main seal leaks with increased rpm.  Best fix? 

How did you replace it the first time? More than likely that’s where to start. Did you pull the engine? Or just drop the pan & loosen the crank? 

On 7/24/2019 at 3:38 PM, Georgia Prixs said:

I wish it was this easy I have a 2001-03 and they removed the pigtails for the HUD and HUD switch off the harness sadly 

IF YOU DO NOT HAVE ACCESS TO THE TECH TERMINAL, A 30 MINUTE RELEARN PROCEDURE MUST BE PERFORMED BY FOLLOWING THESE STEPS:

PLACE A JUMP PACK ON THE VEHICLE. DO NOT LET THE BATTERY DROP BELOW 11.5 VOLTS.

TRY AND START THE VEHICLE.

RETURN THE KEY TO THE RUN POSITION.

WAIT 10 MINUTES. (10)

TURN THE KEY FROM RUN TO OFF.

RETURN THE KEY BACK TO THE RUN POSITION.

WAIT 10 MINUTES. (20)

TURN THE KEY FROM RUN TO OFF.

RETURN THE KEY BACK TO THE RUN POSITION.

WAIT 10 MINUTES. (30)

AFTER THE FINAL 10 MINUTES, RETURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION. THE NEXT CYCLE OF THE KEY WILL NOW RE-LEARN THE PASSLOCK DATA INTO THE REPLACEMENT MODULE.PERSONALIZATION SETTINGS IN THE DRIVER INFORMATION CENTER MAY NEED TO BE RESET. PLEASE CONSULT YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL FOR VEHICLE PERSONALIZATION.

2 hours ago, Frosty said:

I went to my local Kroger after I got out of work last night. My wife wanted me to pick up some sandwich items. In the parking lot I see they had just finished a BBQ. 

Yup, they were apparently serving flambe Chevrolet !

 

Hey I see there is a Chevy dealership right there, maybe it was a fire sale! 😁

Speaking of Kroger, they left Northeast Ohio about 40 years ago! Makes no sense, as the company is from Cincinnati Oh.😮 go figure?

17 minutes ago, Georgia Prixs said:

I wish it was this easy I have a 2001-03 and they removed the pigtails for the HUD and HUD switch off the harness sadly 

There is place up here called Morad Parts. https://moradpartscompany.com/ they have always been good to deal with. I see the have a couple BCMs, but what they may have that they don’t show online are wiring harnesses. You might call and talk to them. They have always been quite knowledgeable & helpful. Ed is the owner, if you can talk to him. 

33 minutes ago, Georgia Prixs said:

So I have a GT and I'm in the process of swapping the BCM off of a GTP to get the HUD working, I hear if I disconnect the BCM I will trip safe mode... What do I need to do to swap it correctly? 

I have never needed to do anything with my BCM, but there is a company that can most likely help answer your question. https://newrockies.com/ 

There are a lot of things I have deleted from my GP & some have been security aspects, but not all and none have been removed off the BCM. 

As a side note, the GPs did not have to be a GTP to have HUD.

Kudos to you GPA! All here will certainly support your effort. An interest in car mechanics can serve you well! It can teach you more about mechanics that will span across so many genres, categories, designs and structures that it would take a book to explain it. The explosion of the industrial revolution was driven as much by the automotive industry as anything, so you go boy! 

If you have question we’ll do our best to answer them.

On 7/10/2019 at 8:38 PM, stratman said:

No name yet... the working name is "Junior" as in "Black Betty Jr", lol!  I'll need another week or so to discover her name.

The engine compartment, even with that dang Chevy 305, REALLY sold me on this baby. It is super clean and tidy, and yes, there is a LOT of bling there. I don't know what upgrades may be going on internally, but externally it has an Edelbrock manifold and carb, headers, dual (guessing here haven't measured) 2.5" exhaust with "H" pipe, aftermarket alt and distributor. It has four wheel disc brakes that about put me through the windshield the first few times I used them, lol! It has flowmaster or Magnaflow mufflers and it sounds fantastic! Everything is tight... not loosey goosey like the Vette. The Vette was quicker, but Junior is no slouch and is most definitely putting out more than the paltry 150hp stock 1981 305.  

Money, or lack thereof, was the reason the Vette had to go. I was not looking for a car, but I saw Junior in a classic car dealer lot last Sunday and that was it. I looked her over real good and could find only a few tiny very minor things. It was a fair price and I knew it would not be there long with all the interest in "Bandit" Trans Ams these days, Monday I went to the bank, Tuesday it was mine! I haggled with the dealer for a good half hour to 45 minutes, I think he knew I wasn't going to leave without Junior. He really low balled me on the Vette right out of the box, but eventually I got more out of him, not as much as I would have liked, and he came down on the price of Junior. In the end, I was ok with the deal, the difference was about $2K more than I had guessed I was going to spend.

I can't tell you how super happy I am! So glad to have a classic Pontiac again. I have not truly fully recovered from my wife's passing three years ago, but this is the best I have felt in a REALLY long time.

 

 

It’s really great to see you back Strat! The car looks like a great find! I love the tan interior! I have always loved the black and gold combo with a light interior, as anyone who knows me and my 69Z might guess, great choice!

I don’t know where the 305 is with mods or hp, but if it’s petty much stock you can get it up to a good 400hp, or anywhere in between if you so desired.

I can understand your feelings of the loss of your wife and I’m glad you are somewhat better. I’ll keep you in my prayers!

we are all glad you’re back, that’s for sure!

Oh yeah! The gold pinstripe like the Bandits had that you mentioned would look killer. I think they used the same 3M gold I used on the 69, it’s an 03 gold. 03 are the last two digits in the 3M number that denotes the color, the rest of the number denotes how wide the stripe, the spacing of a double stripe, etc.