Last Indian

On 1/8/2021 at 1:50 PM, Frosty said:

It would appear that GM has redesign's it's corporate logo  GM is among a growing number of major companies making corporate logo changes recently. Others have included Kia Motors, Rite Aid, Burger King and Pfizer.

https://www.cnbc.com/2021/01/08/gm-redesigns-corporate-logo-as-it-focuses-on-electric-vehicles.html

Right now, IMO, I'm not a fan. 

I’ll apologize up front if I offend anyone! Oh what the hell no I don’t! 
This is in a nutshell the emasculation of American! It started quite a while ago, but really gained ground under the Obama administration, sorry just a fact! 
Want more proof, see what the Democratic’s did in congress two weeks ago? Now in congress sessions you can’t be a father or brother or father-in-law, etc... And the list goes on and on! This is to strip every single one of us of our masculinity or femininity, our civil rights under the constitution, which you can pretty much wipe your you know what with now! We must be gender neutral!! 
So psychologically it filters down to things like a logo, seriously it does! The old GM logo was bold, masculine, powerful! It said GM! Take notice of me! Now it’s going to says I’m fragile don’t look at me or I might cry! 

9 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

LMAO  NOT the smartest thing I've ever done.  Have an industrial come along.  Cut a 6X6 barn beam to cover 4,  2X4 trusses for each end of the body.   Lifted the front of the body 4in and left it hangin by chain.  I had mis- aligned the front 6X6 and was off center on the rear of the body leaving most of the weight on 2 trusses.  YEP   Snap....busted one of the trusses while pulling out the old frame.  If this thing goes any more South, I not only take out my project GTO but my Sunbird sittin next to it as well. 16 x24 garage with one side of each car tucked up against the wall.  Scrambled to get the setup that failed on the donor body in place with cinder blocks and 4X4's to sit on, with JUSTA nuff room (1in clearance for the outside edge of the tires) to roll the frame QUICKLY but carefully in place.  Lowered the bod back down and lined up 1 rear body mount bolt.   Then to the front.  Had a hell of time lining up the front mounts missing by a half in.  I was down to the last 1/4in and couldn't get the bolts in soooo.  Mighty Mouse here has the weight in the rear JUSTA off the mount with a 2X4 and floor jack. Same in front,  I grab the front of the body by the steering column hole and the heater core hole and pick it up, move it Justa bit and of course one of 2x4's slipped dropping the body 3/4 in or so but perfectly in place.  Problem was, tore my right rotator cuff (that was already tore in one spot)  and all of the 4 tendons that work my right arm.  My right arm was dangling and I couldn't move it. My fingers still worked.  So finished installing the bolts on the body mounts before going in to tell the wife the good news.   My bicept is now down at my elbo as they not able to re attach that one during surgery.  When it was in the air I realized how bad it was really rusted. The frame shop said to junk it.  Didn't believe him.  Not about to give up now.  Floor pans front to trunk, all new bracing, inner rockers, and about 6in of the pillar post/kick panel to the top of the vent.  New body mount brackets in the rear and repair kits for some of the others.   OHHH for the LOVE of PONTIAC.

Been there! Done that! Not to take one damn thing away from the amazing job you did buddy! But at least you had a garage! When I did the full frame conversion on the “69” , I had a set of homemade wood sawhorses and a stone driveway! I still have indents in my back!😳

7 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

This with the big dent in the drive shaft suggested that this car must have been put on a stack , it the only way I can think that not only the drive shaft was bent but the trans mount got pushed up . 

So I have removed the tube cross member and put it in my press and moved it 30mm and now it sit the trans where I think it should be 

I can see the trans Pan is parallel to the frame rails and I have clearance for the drive shaft 

Kiwi, It is reasonable to presume that the tranny pan should be parallel to the frame rails, but what is actually more relevant is that the mounting face of the carburetor on the intake manifold be level! This needs to be level! This can only be done accurately when the car is on the ground and the suspension is complete and loaded! I.E. car is basically completed, interior is in, all body panels on, gas tank full or at least approximated with weight, etc.. This is actually a fairly critical measurement as it then will give you the angle of the driveshaft to the differential! Which in turn is relevant, because you need a proper angle within a range to make the universal joints work, but not so great that it causes the driveshaft to whip!

On 1/5/2021 at 3:06 AM, 64 kiwi boni said:

On the passenger side there is this exhaust choke,,, does anyone know why  a Pontiac needs a exhaust chock on one side ???? 

This is pretty much a summery of today’s work , it was a long day , messy as f-Ck 

and felt like I got bugger all  done🙃

 

Yeah GM used the choke thing to help speed up engine heat up! Never liked it, never made any real cense! If it fails on the closed position that’s bad, but most of the time they just rust open! Then in time the cross shaft rusts through the shaft tends to fall out and the butterfly plate drops into the exhaust! If you’re lucky it sits parallel in the exhaust pipe, if not, it turns vertical and blocks off the whole exhaust. Long story short, get rid of it! Just drill & tap out the hole on both sides to the next closest size pipe thread and tap it! Get some Stainless Steel pipe plugs and seal them off. Just my two cents!

To all a toast to a Merry Christmas & to all Cruze on!

On 12/21/2020 at 1:02 PM, JUSTA6 said:

His work is beyond art...more like treasure.   Expect them to pull out one of his Pontiac treasures from the money pit on Oak Island!!

Now you’re JustA being silly! 

Finished product!

this was the last one!

On 12/1/2020 at 11:04 PM, 64 kiwi boni said:

But hay she is never going to be a race car!

Don’t tell Smokey Yunick that! Those cars dominated NASCAR in the day mate!

Well yes it’s winter again! So it’s itch time again. I made the new shift knob a couple years ago now, but it just never grabbed me the way I thought it would so  I’m back at it again! 
First I thought I would do one out of my amber Ultem material! I got about half way through and that JustA didn’t look like I was going to like how it would turn out. So I thought about a different aluminum design!

there is an inlay piece that goes into the arrowhead cut out of the aluminum ball knob.

On 11/12/2020 at 11:49 PM, 64 kiwi boni said:

This is the one car i regret selling, it took me years to build as the kids where young, we had no money, i was working weekends and nights to generate money to feed my petrolhead addiction.

 And once it was finished, a guy walked up to me one day and offered me lots of cash and i ..... being a total dumb arse said yes😞...

 yeah i know what your thinking its justA four door, but this was a new zealand new car, shipped from canada and assembled in Petone nz and first sold to a potato farmer in Hunterville, just 2 hours away from me.

when i sold her, she sported a 454 big block with turbo 400 and a carmaro diff

she was my first ground up rebuild and i was dam proud to show her off, run her down the drag strip and .... well back then, we used to do lots of skids😋

Back then it was a base coat grey, perl  blue then clear top coat with a sit load of colour sanding 

think it was 11 coats all up... in my shed.. not a bake oven😜

 truely got pisted off with the bugs wanting to sit on my progress too!!!😡

Nothing wrong with a 4 door! Some of the best sleepers are 4 doors! Beware the 4 door that looks mean! It just might be!

On 12/10/2020 at 8:24 AM, Frosty said:

Spacers aren't factory. I think someone added them to prevent the drum from rusting onto the hub. That's my suspicion anyway.

What Frosty said! I’ve seen that before, but it’s a bad move! It destabilizes the drum, it also puts all the load of the wheel on small contact points that can then tend to warp the face of the drum! If you don’t want the drum face to stick to the hub or the center cone that houses the wheel bearings you use a painted on thin layer of anti-seize!

On 11/25/2020 at 2:09 PM, Frosty said:

Look bucko, this was the kids idea AND this is on a 35 year newer vehicle!!!  Wise acre!  

At least with Lucy I can get the bulbs in and out!!! They just don't work for some reason (not beyond calling it human error at this point).

Being that the 192’s are a flat blade type bulbs I’ve seen two things happen with them. One the looped wire that makes the connection on alternate sides of the bulb gets bent acts like a wedge. The other is they corrode and adhere to the brass connector!

So two things to try! First put a couple drops of lPS 1 of 2 down in the socket let it sit a few minutes! Now take some lacquer thinner and put several drops in the socket! Invert the socket to dump out the thinner. Wipe the bulb off with a little more thinner. Now take a set of small thin needle nose pliers, like you would use on circuit board components. The thin blades of the needle nose need to under the lower indent register of the 192 bulb and the socket top! Put a piece of thin neoprene or latex between the bulb and the pliers. Squeeze the pliers so the plier jaws/blades can act like a fulcrum between the bulb and the socket top.