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new from Pgh PA 86 Fiero, need suggestions

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Hi, My name is Eric and I'm gonna copy and paste My story here and add to it in hopes of getting some suggestions/help to get My lil red 2 door back on the road.

1986 SE 2.8/4-spd muncie with 166000 on car, complete exhaust, suspension, and brake replacement/upgrade with quality parts in 2004. Added Ocelot exhaust from Fiero Store along with thicker front sway bar and added rear sway bar with Koni shocks and struts... Car handles like it's on rails. Spun rod bearing in 2006 and swapped in 2.8 from My 1985 Fiero SE automatic/all power parts car that simply needed brake system replaced. 1985 motor has 127000 on it and I ported,polished, and gasket matched the heads Myself and put in new valve lifters,push rods, hand lapped valves and added 'roller rocker' rocker arms.changing compression ratio boosting hp. Haven't driven it since upper motor work done.... ran motor long enough to break in new parts but never on road.....currently needs clutch work to get back on road. The car is currently sitting in storage outdoors on a gravel lot until I can get it towed to My new house..pic is My son next to car at old house in 2013 after I added rear wing....original had been removed by one of PO's...and I have to replace right mirror(have another). After sitting for so long at My old house indoors and out towards end the clutch won't release.....car thinks it's in neutral always...tried gravity, pneumatic, one man bleeding to no avail. Read online somewhere or another that bolts involved in clutch mounting can rust and seize over time causing what I'm dealing with now I believe. From what I remember I need to separate motor and tranny to get clutch broke loose, prior to the last time the car moved on it's own I had No clutch issues whatsoever. I am 51yrs old and disabled and even though I enjoy working on My Fiero My back doesn't want Me to and sometimes doesn't Allow Me to...one of those pain is My dictator deals. Because I am going broke faster than hell on disability income alone I am forced to do My own work ... I'd Love suggestions as to how I can resolve this issue with My clutch...car was a daily driver and NEEDS to be again.... I am currently driving a 1994 Acura Vigor GS 2.5 inline 5 cyl that is THE Fastest car I've ever owned...all torque..throw You back in Your seat fast...but it needs motor work..burning oil..but still drivable....but driver door is broken so it kicks My ass every time I have to climb in over console from passenger side of 4 door car. My back injury is debilitating at times laying Me up for days at a time but since I can't afford to pay to have the work done I Have to do it Myself...no choice.  My quality of life sux at the moment due to pain and I have a lil boy who will be 8 in July...I Need My car with a Working Drivers door . Oh Yeah, My very 1st car was a 1967 Pontiac Firebird 326/automatic. I Need to get My Fiero back on the road again, ANY suggestions are appreciated, as I said I believe the clutch itself is good, just needs unseized not replaced but I'd Love to hear others opinions on My situation.

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There is a bracket that holds the slave cylinder to the transmission.  Those do break.  Also check for rust on the bolts as that can interfere with the clutch but I have never seen it.  Tap lightly on the slave with a brass hammer and it may shake the rust loose if that is the case.   As for bleeding the clutch they are a pain in the arse.  I used the gravity method and used a vacuum suction bleeder to do mine.

The part that could be broken.



Welcome, and where you at?

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yes the pedal and all linkage work as they should.....I also added a new clutch pedal bracket from Fiero Store to replace bent one...everything seems to work as it should with the exception of the car Knowing it IS in gear. I'm hoping separating motor and trans allows Me to free up the clutch without replacing it, as I said it worked fine until it didn't one day and I discovered a cracked hydraulic line and repaired it.... seemed to have it bled properly but clutch just doesn't wanna release. All cables and connections are good as well as the hydraulic lines...has probably had a gallon or 2 of brake fluid fed through the system trying to bleed it so I'm not leaning towards rust in hydraulic system. I Thank You for Your replies and will keep You updated when I get car up to My new house to work on.

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