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58Bonne's 1958 Bonneville

2021 September
of the Month

MAX-2.8 4 spd muncie Fiero

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MAX-2.8 4 spd muncie Fiero last won the day on July 24 2016

MAX-2.8 4 spd muncie Fiero had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Butler, PA
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Forever Pontiac

  • Name
    Eric D.
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  • Engine
    2.8 V6
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  1. I'd Love to have a FOREVER PONTIAC T-shirt!!
  2. Sure it won't win but what the hell, I'll enter My 86 SE V6/4 spd Muncie with gasket matched ported and polished heads with Roller Rocker arms
  3. Hi Stephen, haven't gotten it up to My house yet as I have to wait till My friend has time to trailer it up here, he's typically very busy so I have to wait until it is convenient for him. I am excited knowing that one day soon (hopefully) I'll be able to wrench on it and get it back on the road and park My Acura until winter arrives....where I now live is at the bottom of a large hill so I'll park Fiero again for winter but indoors this time at least. My Fiero was My daily driver for quite a few years but now that I have a 2nd car I don't see the sense in running it anytime other than spring and summer no matter how much I Prefer it. I did get My Acura's driver door fixed and believe all else is good on it for state insp. so poor Fiero could end up on back burner if much money is required to make it road legal as well. Hell it's not even on the stove at the moment lol I gotta get it up here 1st, but I do have hope at least
  4. Hi Stephen, I may have the Fiero up here to My new house sooner rather than later. Was at friends shop and a friend/customer of his that used to be a neighbor of Mine years ago stopped by to pick up a finished job and offered to trailer My Fiero up to My house as soon as He has some spare time. Can't wait, so curious to tear into it and see what's up, after I run it and let it heat up 1st...not being the trained tech... it does sound plausible to Me that for it to just all of the sudden quit working that heating up the trans fluid may release a sticking bearing. I have a Love hate relationship with the car so I doubt I'll get that lucky but gotta try it 1st and maybe I'll just get away with resurfacing rotor faces and maybe exhaust replacement. Wish I had some of Jay leno's $$ as well as some of his cars... I'd like to put original stainless steel exhaust back on it. Oh well I'll settle for just getting it working again if nothing else... Thanks again Stephen
  5. Thank You Again Stephen .. no I hadn't seen that bulletin. I often shop Rock Auto but typically it's for My Vigor, Only thing Fiero needs is clutch to work so when I read Your reply I went to RA and signed in...had planned to in order to price release bearing. I greatly appreciate the info/help You have given Me and apologize for not being able to answer Your questions properly...right now $ is the issue for Me so until I can get the car here to see it to work on it I'm unable to give You good answers.. At the moment I have to try and fix the Vigor for next months PA safety inspection as it is the cheapest route for Me to ensure I have a working car. Oh yeah... I also apologize for the late reply...just a bit embarrassed to admit I asked for Help before I should have not being able to have car here at My house to work on....sickens Me to think I used to make over 40,000 before I became disabled....now I can't do a damn thing but go broke fast on disability. Again, Thank You Stephen
  6. Hi Stephan Thanks for the reply and not being offended. Yes the car/clutch worked as it should after the transplant and never gave any indications there was a problem with it. Mind You it was rarely run or moved after the transplant but it did work just fine after the engine swap, only left it sit to keep mileage down on it and I had another car as My daily driver at the time. That is why I was so puzzled when all of the sudden the pedal felt soft/funny when I went to start it as I normally did monthly one day, had no signs or warnings of clutch going out on Me before that day. I kept saying it wasn't releasing because the car acts as if the clutch is engaged but not releasing, I have to push in clutch to start it because of safety switch but can put it in gear and let out clutch and go no where. I never heard any noise at all from tranny giving Me a clue that something was wrong with clutch...it just quit working that day and I assumed it was My slave cylinder malfunctioning so I rebuilt it and replaced some of the hydraulic lines as well. Being on disability as My only income I currently can't even afford to get it towed to My new house to fix it, but I Need to figure something out real soon. The state inspection is up on My current daily driver (1994 Acura Vigor GS) next month and it has a broken tail lamp lens and the driver door won't open because of a broken latch...not sure it will even pass inspection like that, door not opening...gotta check into that. They only made 36000 Vigors from 92-94 so parts are not even available for it anymore short of basic tune up or suspension parts, I have to get any replacement parts for it through a junk yard. My Vigor is rarer than My Fiero, albeit there still being Fiero's on the road and parts available for it..it is still a somewhat rare car. I need to dig out My factory service manual for My Fiero before I get it up here and study it some more...still having fun trying to unpack and find everything while some of My belongings are still in storage. Because I had no warnings of clutch going/not working for Me I had tunnel vision thinking it had everything to do with the hydraulics. Believing I solved all issues with hydraulic system after rebuilding slave and replacing bad lines I was at a loss as to why it stopped working. As I said the car ran and drove fine quite a few times after motor swap, only let it sit to keep mileage down on it so after the repairs I did make I was clueless when it wouldn't work again. I can't answer Your questions properly at the moment concerning the set up as far as working the release bearing goes but will try and find My FSM to get You the answer as to which set up it is. Thank You again for Your help Stephan
  7. talked to a friend today and he suggested just running it and let it get nice and hot for a bit....maybe release bearing sticking
  8. Count Me in... Thank You....oops too late Congrats to winner
  9. I have a Mini-Ductor as well and Absolutely love it.... worth every penny as far as I'm concerned considering how much time is saved removing rusted nuts. My Mini-Ductor turns a nut cherry red in about 10 seconds!! then just put Your wrench on it and it will come off as if it were a brand new nut coming off bolt with ease. Just My opinion but I think any shop that deals with old cars should have a Mini-Ductor.... No Flame=safer and You can remove rusted nuts in under a minute. I bought Mine because it seems like all the cars I work on anymore are all older and I tired of spending so much time using a hand held propane torch to try to get something hot enough to break lose. Like I said, from a Shop perspective....would You rather have Your tech's spending a bunch of time trying to remove rusted nuts with a torch that 'can be' dangerous if not done properly.....or plug in a tool that will have the nut off in under a minute? I did a search online and bought Mine for $500 a few years ago, but I got it through PayPal credit where if I paid for it in 6 payments there was No credit rate fees added....just $500 paid in 6 monthly payments.
  10. Oh yeah sorry, 1st time clutch didn't engage and pedal felt funny I checked under decklid and discovered a cracked hydraulic line right at the fitting going into slave cylinder. That is when I repaired the line and rebuilt the slave with better upgraded seals and could find NO leaks in system when I was done and it 'seemed' properly bled.
  11. 1st and foremost I apologize if I offended you Stephen, not My intention when speaking about mech's in My area...was just trying to explain I do have some wrenching skills so I'm not totally mechanically dense even though I may seem to be at times....and Welcome Your help. I really don't like making excuses but the pain I deal with messes with my brain and I don't always think clearly, that is My reasoning behind seeking help here...hell I was stupidly getting ready to weld something recently when I realized JB Weld would do the job in about 5 minutes!!!! I was actually dumbfounded I hadn't realized the repair could be easily made and I was trying to turn it into more work than was required. So I Gratefully Welcome Your help...yes You being the 'real' mechanic are obviously correct...clutch isn't engaging. Yep even after all the work and bleeding I have done can fire it up put it in gear....feel it going in gear, and let out clutch and Nothing. I wish I could find/remember the site where I saw the post about clutch mounting bolts rusting and seizing from sitting too long without use causing clutch to 'not engage'. As I said, I have no where near the knowledge You have but from the little I do know what that gentleman described sounds plausible to Me...like that could be the issue, I'd like to know Your thoughts on that? Obviously it would be much easier to explain and even take pics to post here if I currently had the car in My garage downstairs, hopefully I will be able to afford to have it towed up here next month. Going broke on permanent disability so it's hard for Me to save any money....I never have extra... gotta do without something next month if possible to get it up here. I will apologize in advance if I ask You something You've already answered... I have brain damage from a head injury from a car wreck that causes me to have memory issues so I sometimes repeat Myself...or forget I've already asked something and it was answered. I will say now that I think about it....from the day the clutch quit engaging, the pedal didn't and hasn't felt right even through all the attempted bleeding efforts....it feels too soft..empty like it's not even connected almost...almost as if....if I remember correctly if there were no spring on pedal to properly put it back in place after releasing it...it almost feels like pedal wouldn't return from floor. Don't know if I described that right or not....obviously need to get the car here at my house to give You a better understanding of the situation. Again Thank You for Your reply
  12. Oh yeah... check Fiero Store online as well as Rodney Dickman online ....gears may be cheaper at one of them than site You list...cheaper in price not quality. One of the pics on site You list shows a Fiero I believe so They may make em for various cars with hidden headlights...that's why I suggested Rodney Dickman because I believe He offers brass gears for various cars
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