Jump to content
Forums Gone... but not forgotten!
Pontiac of the Month

Jack Leslie's 1957 Sedan Delivery

2024 April
of the Month

  • Rev up your passion for Pontiacs and join our vibrant community of enthusiasts!

    Whether you're a die-hard fan of classic muscle cars or you've got a soft spot for sleek modern models, you've found your home here at Forever Pontiac. Our community is dedicated to celebrating everything Pontiac, from the iconic GTO to the legendary Firebird and everything in between.

    Unlock access to expert advice, stunning photo galleries, engaging discussions, exclusive events, and more!

    Start your Pontiac journey with us today!

    Sign up now! 🏁

Recommended Posts

Chasing what i thought was a noisey lifter i found its the rod bearing going out in #2.Gold in the oil filter etc...***K!!!! Anyone have a recomendation on new rods and bearings?400 67block 214/228 cam 96 heads dougs headers th400 3:08 posi gears.this rebuild has less than 10k on it.im really pissed right now,but chit happens.at least its winter and i have the time...I do have 2 455's one with no main caps and one that looks like it will need a sleeve with main caps..i also have the original 400 long block,and another 400 71?i think.the 96's etc. will do well on the 455 and that is the way i would prefer..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tired of these Ads? Register Today!

  • Replies 27
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What a bummer. Did someone local do the machine work on the rebuild? I've had waaaaay to many probs with TRW bearings (1st choice for most rebuild shops) I only use Michigan bearings. I also won't go more than 20 over on bearings. But thats JUSTA me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, so what is this motor used for? Racing or street? Makes a huge difference in the choice of rods and pistons and the associated bearing material. It this is a mild performance upgrade from stock, then the stock rods are the ticket as most Pontiacs make great power up to 5800 RPM. If you are going racing, forged pistons and rods would be the way to go along with any Super Duty or H.O. motor since they can make power well beyond 6000 RPM in nearly stock trim.

I have a mild performance build on my 455. It's .030 over (462 now), 7K3 heads with a 3-angle valve job, Edelbrock intake, Ram Air Restoration repo RAIV factory manifolds, a Melling cam and high-volume Melling oil pump. I am running stock rods and Clevite bearings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trust me, I get it. I love to show the kiddies with Hondas and Camrys around here that there is no replacement for displacement. So I like to get into it myself from time to time. Since I drive my car across country, I try to keep my foot out of unless I feel the need, in order to minimize wear and tear. Running at 70+ MPH for 1000 miles does enough wear and tear, especially since I don't have an overdrive tranny in it.

If the crank is too far out of spec once you get things torn down, Eagle makes a great crank. I have one in mine. Oh, one more thing....I use ARP bolts on everything inside the motor. The only stock bolts are the external head bolts below the valve covers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rounding up a cherry picker,have it out and torn down to see by the weekend i hope.guess i can detail the engine compartment while its out lol.Yea i want a long hauler not a track car.at least i can use everything except the crank rods cam and lifters this time.i'll also degree the cam this time as well.always bugged me i didnt last time.Was hoping for paint this summer but i can drive it ugly as is.heard eagle's are good cranks as well.any recommendations on rods? ARP will be on the list as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The link below is the rods and prices from Butler Performance. However, for my money and it being a highway cruiser, a used and reconditioned rod is cheaper at any price. You can get them off eBay or any classic car dismantler. A local engine builder can usually get them at a decent price. If you re-use stock rods, I would get them magnafluxed first, to make sure they are not damaged.


/>http://www.butlerperformance.com/products/rods_pistons_pins/rods.html

ARP is just cheap insurance for your motor. Like I said, except for the external stock bolts, my entire motor has ARP bolts and studs in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Silly ??? But did you check your headers for a leak on the gasket @ head? I bought a 74 Ventura that was one sweet car, including new paint for 400.00 from a guy that thought the engine was knocking. As I started to pull the motor I noticed the header bolts were loose on one exhaust port on the same side as the knock. Closer inspection showed an exhaust leak. Retightened and put the car back on the ground. It was perfect. I even heard the car run before buying and agreed with the KNOCK being a rod.

Frosty...Mich Clevite and ARP. Winning!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So indymanjoe, did you get your motor torn down and find any surprises? What are you planning on re-using versus new parts?

BTW - I got a couple of new books for Christmas from my dad. They are:

How to Rebuild Pontiac V-8s by Rocky Rotella

How to Build Max-Performance Pontiac V-8s by Rocky Rotella

Both are Car Tech Books.....www,cartechbooks.com, They are $25 each. From what I've read so far, it is good stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Pulling motor as I type( well actually takin a break) knights auto is doing the machine work on the original block to the car, dropped it off yesterday

Getting an eagle stroker asm and pulling the motor apart tomorrow. If anyone needs a 400 nodular crank in excellent uncut condition let me know

post-1672-13580492744_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work. I'd hang on to that stuff for now. Never know when you'll find someone to sell it to. So what are you stroking it out to? 462? Are you re-using the stock rods? What shape was the original cam and lifters in?



What is with the cut valve cover? Is it being used for breaking the motor in and making sure the valves are properly lashed?


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Valve cover is cut to adjust lash with it running 462 is where I'm going Headers have been on for 2 yrs lol

Ah ha I suspected as much. It looks great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sad part is that's the motor on its way out lol

Tearing it apart tonight and Tomorrow night.

Wife wanted to go to the gun range yesterday, who argues with a packing wife lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sad part is that's the motor on its way out lol Tearing it apart tonight and Tomorrow night. Wife wanted to go to the gun range yesterday, who argues with a packing wife lol

Depends if the gun is loaded. If is loaded, noooooo-booooodddddyyyyyy !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.