Something new I hope you can help with.Finally got the car out and used it alot over the 4th weekend. And was getting like a burning wire smell not bad but was there.So today I figured I would check the battery and ALT.Battery was around 12.8 not running.so turned the car on to check the ALT and found it up around 18.8 and only on a few  minutes and could even touch it was so hot.Not sure how old it cause it came with the car.I see it as over charging and frying out now it shouldn't be this high even battery was up around the 18.5 mark .Time to change it?

Sounds like the regulator on the alternator is going or has gone bad. 13-14V is what is typically needed to re-charge the battery. 15+ volts could boil the battery acid and damage the battery. I would take the alternator off and take it to my local auto parts store and have them load test to be certain. From what you are saying, yes it sounds like you need a new alternator.

Yea sounds like it most likely what I was smelling the altenator burning up so went ahead and ordered new one and also new regulator just to cover my basses.But kind of figured as I am driving it more the old stuff is going bad never know how long they have been on

You never know. I suspect my alternator is original to the 350 V8 Lucy was born with and no problems. Ditto the convertible top switch and pump. You just never know how long something well last.

thats true but from I have noticed it has just sat for a long time thats why the door panels and dash pad was so bad moisture took it's toll

put in a new altenator and it is running aound 14.5 didn't put in the voltage regulator but thought I would since I bought a new one.Wondering where I fifn the altenator harness or even new voltage regulator harness figuring the next thing to go is starter

The wiring harness holds up unless there is a lot of corrosion around or someone has hacked into the wiring.

Lectric Limited has the voltage regulator and a lot of the reproduction wiring harnesses.

while putting in the altenator just feeling the wirig and felt kind of hard thought might time to change it.Looked at the sight and they have to full harness for the engine from starter altentator and voltage all one harness

Yup, them and American Autowire are my first go-to sources for wiring. A lot of the online catalogs carry one of two of them.

Got the new altenator in and running about 13.6 but then yesterday battery was dead so charged it up put a meter on it running 13.6 also felt funny so checked the battery fluid and two cells were dry figuring I cooked it with bad altentor took to have cheked and sure enough cooked like a goose.Got the new battery running 13.5 and with a load went to 14.5 is that about right or something going on.The only thing I haven't changed was the voltage regulator

An alternator putting out 13-15 volts is what you need to run the car AND properly re-charge the battery. Sounds like you have fixed that issue unless you get a higher voltage or have another issue of some sort.

lets hope not  but guess it cooked when it was running at 18.6

 

Yup anything over 15 volts is definitely a problem and needs to be fixed. It not only ruins batteries but it can do other damage too.

Got that fixed with a new altenator but had to get a battery also fried it.. Now another quick question wanna lower my steering colume thought last summer seen the body guy do it by un screwing the 4 bolts at about middle of it is that right? Wanna drop it to get at the speedo cable and lube it

The steering column typically has two bolts that hold it up. However, since I've not restored a B-body before it could have 4-bolts I suppose.

Now you may or may not need to drop to the column to release the speedo cable. The real trick is being able to snake your hand and arm up into the dash, find the little release button or clamp on the speedometer, and pull the speedo cable back at the same time. At times you'll wish you had three arms but you can do it.

Hey Frosty another question .Was out to show yesterday and friend told me that right rear brake light wasn't working so checked it out I put in a new socket and bulb and light worked and turn signal worked but brakes still didn't the left side was fine any ideas? I put in a 1157 bulb.

Terry - are the brake lights out on both sides or just the left hand side?

First thought would be to inspect the bulbs. 1157s have dual filaments. It possible, albeit unlikely, that the one of the two filaments is burned out. If that is case, simply replace the bulb with a new one.

If we eliminate bulbs, then we have more troubleshooting to do.

was just the left side I started to look more into it and decieded to switch the wires and boom it worked. why the wires were switched I don't know but even the lights on  that side were brighter .

Sounds like like you solved the current mystery of the day my friend. Good job! 

lol guess so must of been like that for a while but everything is brighter in back now.Now the only thing left is switching out the fuel gauge.I had the orignal sending unit rebuilt and they said they traced it to now the gauge have another one so looks like a winter projecy

Sounds like someone is going to have fun between now and the coming of winter.

hope not think I will have to drop the steering wheel unscreww  the speedometer cluster and change it out.. hoping anyway..

That will be a pain for sure and yes you will have to do all those things, but my point is you will be enjoying the car until late fall/winter to do it, right?

Hey Frosty hope your keeping warm a -7 here in cleveland.Anyway have been throwing it back and forth about changing out my taillights and to put in HEI ask about in a site on facebook and was told all I would have to do is to swap out the flasher and wondering if that is right or more to it.   thanks

Hi bud. The weather is not any better here. It was -5 yesterday and jumped up to 15 this morning. Look out, a heat wave!

Actually you MAY have to put in two LED flashers. One for the turn signals mounted in the fuse panel and one for the emergency flashers, which should be under the dash, driver side. At least Lucy is wired that way (my '72).

The LED compatible flashers are not that expense (around $20 or less). The reason is the LED/HEI bulbs draw less current and the old flasher will cause the LED bulbs to flicker or blink badly. The new flasher can handle both the LED/HEI bulbs and legacy bulbs.

Edited January 27, 20224 yr by Frosty