Was thinking the same might as well see what happens.. And play with it over the weekend gonna be a crappy weekend plus waiting on the fuel pump I ordered and get that in next week.. Never a dull moment for sure... Have a good holiday weekend

I know what you mean, it's suppose to be cold on Saturday and gradually warming up here on Sunday and Monday. So I am hoping to have some quality wrench time with Lucy for a change this weekend.

You should be able to get a 40-amp fuse at your local parts store and at least diagnose your power top problem though.

Have a great holiday weekend yourself!

Hey Frosty doing good I hope.Still waiting to get my fuel pump and playing with top.I  put in the 40amp and it seems to work when I push the up button but when I push the down botten noting I can hear it click like it wants but nothing .And notice on the dia you sent it said a shorting bar but can't find one anywhere so ordered a curcit breaker which will come monday hope that will do the trick.Here is a pic of it.

Terry - I have exactly the same thing in Lucy.

As for not working in the down position, check under the dash and make sure all three leads are plugged in. Unlike most electrical connections, the power top has three separate leads going to the switch and not some form of electrical connector. So it is easy for one or more to come off.

I could be wrong on full size cars, but on A-body cars there is an accessory relay in the driver's side / footwell. You have to remove the kick panel to find it. This relay could impact the top, power windows, and seats.

Edited June 15, 20214 yr by Frosty

Will check it out  thimling last summer the guys took the kick panels out to repaint them to match the dash.Tried it again today and  neither up or down worked..but like I said going dpwn wasn't really strong when it did try to woprk.

1 hour ago, TerryH said:

Will check it out  thimling last summer the guys took the kick panels out to repaint them to match the dash.Tried it again today and  neither up or down worked..but like I said going dpwn wasn't really strong when it did try to woprk.

Jump it with a simple wire to test the switch.  Hot will be the middle poles, one end there and then to top or bottom poles to test.  Frosty's switch went at a show and I jumped it to get the top down saving a long wet ride home from a show.  Taking a chance it was the switch.

Totally agree with JUSTA on this one.

well good news on this  while waiting for the curcuit breaker I put in a 40amp fuse and reached up to the wiring but couldn't reach it so kind of jiggled it and tried and poof it worked went down and back up.Today good drop the head light switch so I can get at it. But glad it worked think maybe add this to the list and get a new switch

It might be the switch, or it could be a loose wire(s) at the switch.

Took the head light switch out and so much easier to get the switch .Made sure it was tight also checked the winsheild wiper harness .All seemed good and did work.On to the fuel pump lol

well got the fuel pump in and they repalced the fuel sending unit runs better the before found I have a bad gas gauge.Still problem with top. won't run I hear clicking to go and go down but no movement so thinking the motor is shot and might be after 50 yrs or so now find out how to get to it

Now the fun begins. You get to climb into the trunk and reach into the back - underneath your top enclosure will be your pump and lines. Mere words cannot express how much time I have endured on this front in the last couple of years with mine. Lucky for me it has been hydraulic rams and lines that have been the problem and not the pump or switch.

pretty not the switch since I can hear it try to work.Thought it would be ok since it would engage but was doing it the garage so stopped the over the weekend it just went dead.I seen and sracthed my head and wordering if I can get at it taking the back seat out.I just don't want to get stuck somewhere and it not working and figured like my fuel pump it is 50yrs old

2 minutes ago, TerryH said:

pretty not the switch since I can hear it try to work.Thought it would be ok since it would engage but was doing it the garage so stopped the over the weekend it just went dead.I seen and sracthed my head and wordering if I can get at it taking the back seat out.I just don't want to get stuck somewhere and it not working and figured like my fuel pump it is 50yrs old

Before tearing it all apart, check your lines for air bubbles.  There is a rubber plug on the pump to add more fluid if needed. Also checking for spots it might have leaked.  Pump line connectors and at the ram.  

Agree with Justa on this. Also, go to the grocery story and buy $1-3 re-useable ketchup bottle like you see below - about 8 oz. If you have a lot of air in the system and you need to add transmission fluid, this little ketchup bottle will help minimize spillage while lying on your side. It will let you add a little at a time.

Getting the plug out of the side of the pump can be a pain. Have needle nose pliers and a flat blad screwdriver ready.

 

Will check but looked  to see where it is at and didn't notice any oil the only thing that I can tell is when I engage it either up or down is a clicking noise like it is trying the work but doesn't

It maybe the pump, but it sounds like could be low on fluid/air in the system.

I had a line break just in front of the passenger side ram fitting, so the fluid leaked under the passenger seat. So if the rear seat is still in the car, pull it and check for possible fluid loss. You will have to pull the rear quarter arm rests and the rear seats to get to the rams and lines but then you will be able to see the lines to see if you have air in the lines.

will check it out thought if all you got was noise like clicking or humming it would be a bad motor

It may wel be a bad motor. It may still be. This way we eliminate fluid leakage.

Was thinking about and gonna go down the line check for leaks check fluid gonna pull the switch and use a toggle switch  and if all that is good gotta be the motor and go from there.

Sounds like a plan.

just off hand do you how the switch goes in does it plug into the harness or is all one unit

If I understand your question, the switch has three wires that plug in individually to the switch behind the dash. There is no harness plug that goes to the switch like the headlight switch has.

Something tells me that is not what you are asking though.....

that answers it Frosty ..just was wondering if I could discount the wiring without taking the switch out.And connect it to toggle switch to check if the motor is the problem but if it woprks then the switch is the problem

looks like I lucked out pulled the car and figured what the heck and tried it again before I pressing in the center but this tis time pressed the bottom side and poof the top went down.And with the 40amp fuse went down pretty fast.Pretty sure it is the switch but now I got all summer to put a new one in.