I think I found it.there is a bolt at the bottom fron part of the door and it looks like a stop on the window that goes down a channel and at the bottom of channel it is solid and seem that when roll the window down it stops there so gonna take the bolt out and see if that channel slips out the way.Hope it works... oh yea found a fuel sending unit and had it rebuilt gonna have it installed tommorrow..

Think i found it.Looks like a channel that the stop slides down with a bolt at the botton.I was kind in hurry because the car was going over to have the fuel sending unit out in.I did lossen it but the window still stooped figuring that after sitting there for 50yrs might need some wd40 to help it along plus I noticed two bolts at the top holding it in place may have to drop the channel down  

Hey Frosty will be sending pics of the door panels and dash pad just waiting for an opening so my autobody guy put the dash in for me.But in the mean time took the car in and had a new heater core put in plus a rebuilt fuel sending unit in.Have a problem though seems the gas gage isn't working he thinks it is either bad or wiring is goofed up and wants he to give the whole cluster to him when I have the pad off.But I reached in behind the cluster and felt around and seem there is no wires to the fuel gage. And wondering if you happen to know which color wires go there?I seen a few wires hanging there but not sure.I can get at it without pulling the whole thing out...Thanks

here ate the pics of the panels.. putting in the dash next

Terry - sorry for the HUGE delay getting back to you on these door panels bud. Your thread got pushed way down by others. I just now saw it. Those panel came out really well my friend.

Thanks Frosty was really surprised and happy how they and my dash came out now on to figure out how to get my gas gage to work. Have a rebuilt one in and rebuilt gage itself  and still not working.Think it more of  thing that the where I took it is not sure how to work fix it.They say the gage will work and the sending unit will work but when plugged it it won't.

I grabbed this article off the internet on how to test a fuel gauge and the tank. It is really pretty simply. Even though this person did it for a 2nd gen Firebird, this method works for your car as well.

http://www.modsandrods.tv/2012/03/29/bench-testing-fuel-gas-gauge/

Thanks Frosty gonna have to try this looks easy enough.. they were using an after market type but sure it will work with my orginal gage and sending unit from the trunk 

 

Let us know how it goes. Always happy to help a brother out.

Last thing I would mention is if you test the gage and the tank sender and they both work, then I suspect you have a wire break between the tank and the gage cluster. That can be a pain to find but that is the last thing that can go wrong.

Edited March 17, 20215 yr by Frosty

Ok Frosty hope you can help.I am trying to locate the fuse for the convertable top.Not sure if it attacted to another fuse or by itself.Worked last year thinking I over did it when  putting it up last fall and blew the fuse..Thank Terry

Terry - no problem - the power convertible top lead is plugged into power connection terminal on the fuse block. The Power Accessory fuse (which is either a 20 or 30 amp fuse) supports the power top, power windows, or power seats.

BTW - the I got this diagram from the '69 Pontiac Service manual that we just happen to have available free here at FP under the Learn/Manuals tab. If you don't own this service manual (which covers all '69 Pontiacs), I suggest you download it. I find my service manuals invaluable

 

Thanks Frosty that should help alot.Thought it might be a fuse .Aguy on FB was saying it was a curiut breaker and could be anywhere.Wondering if there this a fuse on the convertable to motor also? Thinking I tried to force it down even more the should have last fall and blew the fuse..Should use a 20amp or would 30 be better plus seen that shortening bar is used there should I use that instead.. Thanks

Morning Frosty ..put in a 20amp fuse and nothing should I go up to a 30amp?Plus looking at the diagram you sent it looks like it may be plugged into the the under the kight or first plug the second plug connection is for window control relay and poer antenna should I plug it in there and see if that helps? Thanks again

Terry - check your owner's manual. There should be a similar diagram of the fuse block in it with the fuse ratings for all the fuses. Don't exceed them.

Are you plugging the power top connection into the correct accessory plug in the fuse block? The top connection in between the fuses is not used, so you have to use the 2nd or 3rd connection. Start with the 2nd connection.

My 72 Lemans has both power windows and power top. They both plug into that same connection.

There is no fuse on the power top motor. It is grounded in the trunk area and it has three other wires from the power switch going to it (power, up lead, and down lead).

Hey Frosty seems like it is plugged into the top one may have happened last fall when I had the dash pad installed and he took out the instrument panel and lowered the steering wheel he might not of reconnected it right .I can try the second or third right? Both are using. 20amp fuse my fuse box us the same as the pic you sent ...thanks

Was looking at my owners manual and seem the asy fuse for the motor and power windows are a 40amp and only a 20amp in now would that cause it not to run or to blow the fuse... looks like afew from  fuse box are different then the manual.. always something to do and learn

I was going to suggest you check the owners manual for the fuse diagram but you beat me to it. Good job!

Yeah a 20-amp instead of a 40-amp will definitely cause you grief.

will it also cause it not to work? I checked all the fuses and they all have power.. Will try the 40 amp next step could be a bad switch??

A 20-amp fuse in a 40-amp slot will most likely blow if the current draw is too high. Running the power top by itself should not consume 40-amps. Trying to put the power windows down at the same time as the top is another story.

The switch should have three leads on it, black 12v power, and a red and green leads for up and down. All go back to the pump. So check the switch by jumpering the 12V power across to the read and green leads. If the pump runs, the switch is bad.  

Lastly it is possible that the pump motor has failed and may need to be replaced. Check to see if you are getting voltage from the switch to the pump across the leads. Power but no pump action means the pump is bad.

Edited May 26, 20215 yr by Frosty

just off hand how hard is it to remeove the switch if that is the problem? The motor sits along the back seat close to  rear window seen that when I was re installing the panels..

It's not hard but it can be time consuming.  

1. If your car has A/C, you have to remove the duct work from under the dash on the driver's side so you can get your hand up under the dash.

2. Reach up under the dash, the switch is probably held against the dash by a form fitting sprung-like retaining clip on the back side of the dash and the switch - remove the clip. Pay attention how it's attached and it's orientation so you can put it back later.

3. Once freed from the retaining clip, you should be able to move the switch thru the dash hole in to the driver compartment. It should have 3 leads, black 12v power, red and green. Pay attention to which lead goes where. Photograph it if you have to.

 

thanks Frosty that was kind how I thought it would work but wasn't sure how it was held into the dash No A/C and pretty sure I can reach under or lay under and reach up..And yeppers I learn to take pics of everything helps in the long run.Does the black lead go into the fuse box from the front or back? Just asking because the wire we talking about before I thought was plug type wire is red/orange  plug and is in the second slot on the fuse box

Here is the power switch and cable for my Lemans, I expect yours to be similar. The reddish/orange connection goes into the fuse block and the black connection (red/green wires) goes back to the pump.

great mine looks just like this .If you see the fuse box diagram that you sent me it like mine also and like the one I have in the my service manual.The power assy in the manual says 40amp and right now has a 20amp and the red plug is plugged into that but says not used on the diagram.Has the top and bottom says not used and the middle two being used .Not sure if I should move it and plugged it into the second slot or leave it there and see what happens when I put the 40amp fuse in.They may have just put in any where when they did the dash pad last summer and not coinnected to right slot in the fuse box

I would move it to the second slot and see what happens. I have no idea why there are 4 connections and 2 are not used - unless the 1st and 4th are used for grounding purposes.

I would still put the recommended 40-amp fuse into the fuse block.