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Pontiac of the Month

31pontiac's 1959 Bonneville

2022 November
of the Month

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Pontiac of the Month

Every month in here we will vote on who has the best Pontiac ride!


239 topics in this forum

  1. POTM Vote

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  2. POTM Nominations

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  3. POTM Vote

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  4. POTM Nominations

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  7. POTM Vote 1 2

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  8. POTM Nominations

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  9. POTM Vote

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  10. POTM Nominations

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  11. POTM Vote

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  12. POTM Nominations

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  • Posts

    • I waay agree on the converter.   Your the painter, scuff best you can N repaint with engine HOT paint.  You would never get a chem stripper off totally with all the sand imperfections in the castings.  Paint would peel back off.  That said, you wouldn't get all the old paint off the casting.  I LOVE my Dremel tool with a LIL wire wheel, if ya wanna go the hard way.  So happy to hear your gonna try to make the DC this year!!  AWESOME.  Keep in touch and we will try to get you in with our Pontiac Widetrackers so we can park together and hang out.  Great news.
    • When adjusting your idle/mixture screws, (right/wrong) I always start with 1 1/2 turns out from seated.  I always do the left side 1st.  Go out 1/4 turn at a time til highest rev is achieved, then the right side, same. Go back and repeat for final adjust.  Now for most your close enough.  If you unplug a manifold vacume line.  Plug the hose and attach a vacume gauge,  now repeat adjustments using highest vacume acheived for both screws.  Remember the vacume runs the advance for your distributor, so the best levels will throw in your advance quicker.   Right or wrong, this is the way I was taught from my Dad and it has always worked for me. Esp on small displacement motorcycle/ snowmobile engines to sync multiple carbs.  Vacume gauge is also a good way to check your hoses as well.  You can check both ends of a hose to make sure it doesn't have a split somewhere in the line and that your getting same readings at both ends.  That's my story, I'm stickin to it.  The more cool tools you have always impress the ladies too.....  OK maybe NOT. 
    • Since its too cold now for body and paint work, I want to go back and tackle what I think might be an issue. Back after the test drive I had said that Rosey (my GP) felt "under powered". Like there should be more punch when leaving from a stop. Kind feels like a power wheelchair right now. We messed with the timing and everything else. Not much changed. During the past few months that's been in the back of my head' and I got thinking a couple of weeks ago, torque converter. So, when I had the 400 turbo rebuilt, I told the owner of the shop that I didn't want a big stall. Because it was a pretty close to a factory build. Now I'm thinking that the stall is too low for my motor/trans/weight of car combo. Its leaving around 1100-1200 rpm. From what I've seen using the online calculators I should have a stall between 1800-2200rpm and the higher (2200) the better. 428 bored 30 over, TH400 fresh rebuild, 323 gears in the rear end (I believe). If I'm going to change the converter, I would like to do it before paint goes on her this spring and have time to drive her around a bit and work out the bugs before trying to make Woodward this year.  Second question, if I do change the converter, I'm going to pull the motor out. I painted the motor during the build, but she got hot, real hot and turned the paint brown, remember, I was the genius that painted my engine white. Does anybody know of a way to strip the paint off of an engine while on a stand that does not involve total disassembly?
    • Pontiac did have under seat heaters for cars with bucket seats in 51 and 52. This heat core is available on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325406189163?hash=item4bc3b8666b:g:U9oAAOSw9yFjYE5q
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