95naSTA

Nice T/A. Not a huge fan of the hood either but otherwise it looks real good.

Looks clean as hell. Nice work.

Lol. Shhhhh. See the first page. It's gettign better.

Fluid level ok? Trans cooler lines leaking?

Yeah it's the bay, front bumper, front end misalignment, kinked hood, front bumper, and drivers side doors being jacked (it's worse than it looks) that still keep it a beater.

Sweet story/pics. That had to have been awesome to drive on Nurburgring.

I didn't feel like waiting for the flow stack so I went ahead and hooked the MAF, IACV, and just shoved my old Bonnie air filter into the MAF adapter. And.. It works! The midrange feels healthier but I haven't really pushed it too much up top due to lack of tuning. I do have a consult cable now and I'm exploring software options for data logging. The one program I tried so far doesn't have long term fuel trims.. just short. Port for the IACV: This engine bay is 100% beater status but it works:

I got a bunch of stuff in today.. -Mounted and tied in the vac canister back into the booster line -Modified the hidden battery tray so that is wasn't pushing the bumper to the passenger side -Mounted ext air temp sensor -Mounted driver’s side fender and side skirt and ran the wire or the puddle lights. (just had a couple bolts holding the fender before) -Pulled the spacers I had on the rear of i30 (replaced them with spacers made for that car) and put them on the front of the Bonnie -Re mounted the 9/10" super RSes -Added some negative camber to the passenger side front since the tire was constantly rubbing the fender. lol. -Temporarily mounted passenger side skirt Making progress!

Thanks. I just used a chop saw, bench grinder, hand drill, and pop rivet gun.

Its all hand me downs I swear..

Like this??

Being that I can't leave well enough alone, I decided to do a couple more things to this car. So.. the UIM on the fwd vq35 has a dual plenum, one per bank, with a valve that connects the two plenums during specified rpm ranges. My car had a window switch (IIRC) operating this valve correctly where it's closed, open, closed throughout the whole rpm range. The point of this is to improve cylinder filling for a variety of load/rpm situations instead of just one. Years back it was dyno confirmed that if you gut the UIM, connecting the two halves, you'll lose no or minimal low/midrange WOT power but you'll gain a decent amount of top end. I kicked around the idea for a while and decided to go for it today. All it took was a sawzall and a little love from a long shanked burr. I don't feel any difference in the low end.. traction is still a problem. The midrange feels smoother and the Top end feels stronger. I'm also going to try out a Q45 MAF. The thing is huge. My reasoning that it's not too big is: This came stock on a 278 hp engine. HP = air flow, there's no way around it. My bolt on VQ35 is definitely in this hp range at the crank. Adapting this to work is a little tricky but thanks to Google I shouldn't have a problem. Nissans have a corny 4 bolt pattern from the MAF to the airbox. Luckily, so does Ford and I was able to re-drill a Lightning MAF adapter to work with the Q45 MAF. I'm still waiting on my velocity stacks for both cars but once I have those I should be putting this thing on. Q45 left, stock VQ30 right. And here's a pic of the car 3 wheelin it into a parking lot in the city:

I got a couple things in today.. My oil coolers were temporarily ghetto rigged where I want them with zip ties.. I picked up some aluminum angle stock and put something together with rivets. The placement tuned out pretty good. I have them up behind the bumper support and out of view of the lower air damn. They'll still see enough flow but this way it'll be more subtle. And even though the coolers are just hanging, they don't move at all. One of the harnesses to my fuse block was too close to the exhaust crossover so I made this and used a stud on the firewall to hold it out of place:

Lol. Relax. I'm trying to tell you I know where its coming from and I'm going to address it later. The issue is bigger than parts replacement.

My leaks are right above the rear view mirror and the bottom corners of the rear window.

I can't really see the latch do to the small pics but it looks like the hood is twisted or on crooked. I would try adjusting the hood at the hood side hinge bolts. (be careful with that) That could be the only problem. If it still won't line up with the latch after that, you can adjust the latch by removing the plastic upper rad support.

The leak is definitely not the door seals. They are shrunk but I re-seated them around all the corners so that the gap would be at the bottom of the door and then filled that gap with a cut section from a spare seal. I have two sets of OEM floor mats so I'll probably throw in the spare set for the time being so it doesn't look as bad. Minor update.. I'll probably be putting some time in on the car this week since I'll be back from travel. I did order a BPI velocity stack and new air filter. This thing has been on the list of things to buy ever since I read the honda-tech thread on it's development back in 06ish. The owner did flow anaysis to optimize the radius on the inlet. It won't add anything earth shattering HP wise but there are plenty of dynos showing 5ish whp. On a tapped out n/a build, that's worth it.

Post pics if you can't figure it out from the info above. I had my whole front end apart and could probably tell you what you need to do.

Nah that's nothing it's just the factory sound deadening being weird. It was like that before I had any leaking issues.

I switched gears a little today. I wanted to get the carpet and padding out due to a water leak I have. I'm pretty sure it's the leak is at the bottom of my rear window and at the top of my windshield. I don't have any immediate plans to fix this since the car is going to be kept in a garage by May. But, I don't want soaking wet padding against metal till it finally dries out. With the car in the garage I can take my time having the glass out, addressing any corrosion etc. I adjusted the TCC/brake switch and verified the TCC engagement but my mph settings are still goofy from my last tune. My laptop is currently MIA so, I'll revisit this. I definitely found why my airbag light is on.. lol. The module looks like it's been in the ocean for a year. I have another one of these modules buried somewhere in my storage space. I'll find it when I move vs. wasting time looking for it. And I finally finally finally got the hood stay bracket back from my painter buddy and installed it. I couldn't mount the oil coolers till I got this in there. The brackets should be pretty easy. The coolers are re-zip tied back in place for now. And on to the pics.. The interior is kinda beat with no carpet but it'll do for now.

Looks clean. What fitting(s) did you use for the nozzle? I need to tie into a pipe for an external IAC and it looks like I could use something similar.

Lol. 3500 top swap and a cam, do ittttt.

I'm about to start banging stuff out again with the car. Here's the to-do list. A lot of it is small stuff but there's a few things that'll take a while.

Sweet. CoiloversCoiloversCoilovers.

Thanks again guys. Good news, with stock 95 L36 (n/a 95+ 3800 SeriesII) ignition maps, I have zero KR. I was rolling around with the S1 L67 (s/c 94/95 3800 SeriesI) timing maps temporarily since my compression is so high. Almost bad news: I've never taken this thing on the highway and therefore never noticed I have to TCC lock-up. First through fourth all work fine, just no lock-up. I don't have any TCC code or anything, it just doesn't command it. I looked at my requested TCC lock mphs and there was nothing goofy, looked at the FSM a little then went back out driving around checking out my scantool every so often. TCC Brake SW = ON. So, it looks like my brake switch is stuck preventing lock-up.