Last Indian

I couldn’t agree with my buddy JustA more! Great collection. Love the “70” Camaro! “69” Z was first love & my first new car! Broke my heart to sell it in 2004. I would love to see the Rams!

I think you need to look in the mirror son! You’re the one who is posting to a topic long closed, 2 years old, from someone asking about lights for his car. your purpose was clearly look at me, look at me! Look what I know!

Done!

Cole, first of all if I made you feel that I was insulting you I apologize, but I wasn’t. You made a blanket statement about Cibies’ and T3 lights, which could be quite misleading to others and we were all speaking about classic car fitment, be it 7” or 5 ¾” round. So there is not a lot to choose from. While I never mentioned it, because I was sure you would respond back, those specific Cibie lights were Z-Beams, which were different than the standard H4 Cibie light. Additionally Cibies Z-Beams haven’t been made since 1986 and Cibies ceased all production in 1992 with next to no US sale for a few years prior to that. That said there was at the time and still are some reproductions and knockoffs being made and sold. Hence the statement, you did not! And your reply, they were not hard to obtain reenforces that. As far as the gibberish, not (jibberish) goes, I will presume your understanding of the physics of light, its transmission as well as its makeup are not part of your wheelhouse. Otherwise your statements of volume, of which there is volume to be expressed for light! Intensity yes, wavelength yes, color yes, reflective property’s, absorption yes. Light and it’s transmission are an entire science all its own. HIDs and LEDs are different than a glowing tungsten wire or a glowing tungsten wire surrounded by halogen gas! Those two light forms are good not because of the electrical draw reduction, but because of the wavelength of light they can produce that a tungsten wire and halogen can’t. In which case has nothing to do with the mechanism that transmits the light, thus back to the original Cibie Z-Beam! This was meant to teach not correct!

I understand you may think you had some Cibie’s, but if you are comparing them to T3’s then you did not! First of all Cibie are only non sealed Halogen lights! Which in the 1990 were still illegal in the US for highway use. Which made them difficult to obtain. T3 are sealed beam! Second Cibie’s are a special metal parabolic housing, that use pure silver that is plated on to the housing, with a patented specifically cut 24% lead crystal lense that distributes the light very similar to a cutoff projection headlight. This combination presents a wider flatter, but further out light pattern than any past or present sealed beam headlight! This headlight became the benchmark that all the marketers of today try to achieve. The very advertising photos they use to show are exactly the same type photo Cibie used in the late 1960’s. They also were quite pricey! Third, with respect to light, any light, when used for illumination, but with concentration, there are two very important requirements! Number one is the design of the parabolic and it’s reflective surface characteristic! Then the all important Kelvin temperature. This temperature, color spectrum, determines how things are illuminated. This feature and only this feature is a more desirable element than the stock Halogen bulb! But in today’s world you could and can install an HID or LED bulb and have the best of both worlds! The fact is that a 7” round parabolic is the best headlight shape followed by a 5” round! Followed by nothing! One of the main reasons manufacturers stated producing projection headlights was because their chopped up sculpted headlight designs just plain sucked! They needed a way to get back to an honest parabolic shape to be able to reflect light with the physical properties that come from that physics law!

Copy that! Same deal hear! Yeah! Oh! Well maybe not!😷

The 7E8 code is a cat failure code. Which can be a number of things! Complete cat failure, a crack in the housing or pipe or flange. You’ll have to inspect it to see. More than likely with the car in the air and running.

Thank you, you guys are great! But now I need to decide which one! I was sure originally Chief of the Sixes was it, but now I’m leaning towards the Grand Prix Flaggs/Pontiac Arrowhead!

This is when I wish I had put in the ground tank! I would fill it up to the top! Oh yah, that’s right I couldn’t! City regulations and all, dah!!

Trying to easy the lockdown boredom. Moving along with the steering wheel center & sport foot rest.

Yup! Foot peddle would make a big difference in control. I’m not a fan of mig, I’ve used it often, but I just prefer tig. Better control for heat and bead control! That said when I weld thin sheet metal I usually like acetylene and aircraft welding tips. You can actually control this type of welding best of all. While it’s not good for production work, takes longer, but from a welding standpoint, it’s stronger and less grinding. I’ll take a Willoughby Brewing Company Wheat, thank you!

Tell her the newest look is drywall to the floor no trim just exposed nailheads showing! Also the less perfect the wall looks the less people see small imperfections!😁

$2.50 for premium at Shell or Sunoco, yay, oh yah isolation!

I agree! Same goes here for me! We call them people who have driver’s licenses! Had one a year or so back on a 4 lane driving with no hands, on an IPad, curb lane, drive of the road, up over the curb, a crossed the tree lawn, on to the sidewalk, missed the bus stop sign, but not trying to and back out onto the road and never hit the brakes once!!! 😳🤭

You are welcome Mr. Frosty, but in chocolate!

Well if you went there you could claim you were social distancing! I doubt that there are many folks there right now?

Yup! Saved a lot of money on BBQ fuel! Just sit on the dock and roast a wiener! Hopefully not your own! Yes and at the Frosty bar, wait for it, - - you can get a cold corona!! Captain Hook would be proud!

Well, I don’t have pond/lake on the property, but if I walk about 3/4 of a mile I can dip my toes in Lake Erie. Yet this time of year you might have to amputate them when I pull them out! 😳

That’s a 10-4 good buddy. Those are interchangeable, but you have to get all the hardware! Brackets, dust plates & the master cylinder will be different so will the in-line restrictors. Then there is the obvious.

Copy that! Glad to hear about the wife as well!

Thanks Ringo! It beats an apartment if you don’t like that kind of environment, and I don’t! two different views on the patio.

Ok! That looks why to familiar! ! Except it’s why to wet & cold to sit out!

Really JustA doing the usual! House upgrades, in & out, yard work, lots of yard work! To many dam plants & trees! Oh and the Indian Work. Waiting for better weather to paint & tinkering with some changes to the center of my steering wheel, haven’t made up my mind as to which why I’m going to go! current center more to be done to both of these before I decide!

Peter, if I may? First off, nothing you’ve done should offend anyone! It’s your car you should do exactly what pleases you! Period! Besides, you’ve saved another poncho! You’re posing a question so I answered it, nothing more. With regard to the distributor question. No engine is perfect, some come closer than others and to some degree I think that is proven by a specific engines longevity. The Cleveland was a good motor, but as an overall motor, meaning beyond standard production cars, it fell short! It had several issues, that could be overcome with extensive work, but never really gave back in power for the effort when compared the Pontiac or Chevy. That said you can actually build a GM V8 with the distributor up front! The main reason to set a distributor in the rear of an engine of a rear wheel drive front mounted engine is protection of the electronic brain! Is it necessary? Probably not! In the end though, those engines dominate the car market, race market and more, for more than three decades virtually unchanged, that’s domination! And yes, I’m not a big guy, so I have actually sat inside an engine compartment at times or laid on a covered fender to work on a engine. With respect to the Pontiac manifold design! Just shear genius! There is a whole world of physics around that design principle. It all deals with principles of fuel delivery, vaporization of fuel, density of the charge, volumetric efficiency and separating that from the rest of the engines thermal impact. In essence these are two different worlds that should never meet, except in the combustion chamber, which to a greater extent is why direct fuel injection can actually deliver more power than port injection or carburation.

Yes the original pedal was curved! I believe most of the pre 1990 car pedals were curved, clutch & brake. Some more than others, but still curved not flat! The two reasons I believe are simple. One as you push down on the pedal it goes through an arch. The curved pedal allows your foot to stay in contact with the pedal as it goes through the arch better than a flat surface, this is a proven fact. Secondly an curved surface allows greater psi pressure on the pad surface, not pedal pressure, but pressure on the pedal surface. Which minimizes the tendency for your foot to slide of the pedal, aka a type of hydroplaning if you will and this does actually happen. As I’ve said before, the old timers were pretty dam smart, not so much today! Now most pedals are flat, which is why that’s what you are use to seeing!