Last Indian

I know exactly what you mean! Believe it or not this is just some of my stock! Right now I can’t get to some of the rest of it to snap a pick. these are only about a forth of the towels and micro fiber towels I have the rest are stored in the attic or in my shop. this goes back 2 1/2 feet waxes cleaners polish etc.

You should do something on there! I like to see other folks approaches to things! My cars don’t take me that long, but I have always been called very anal, with good reason I guess! If you add up all the time I spend on a particular car it might be that much! I wash and wax a car in the winter each time It goes out, plus I clean the interior, front to back, each area with its own type of treatment. All also clean the engine compartment and use special treatments there as well. In the summer, at least once a week if it doesn’t get rained on! The Indian - - - that’s a whole other story!

Maybe this title should be on the heavier side! 😳!

That’s my experience kiwi! Way back into the mid “60” I would go junkyard hunting for parts with buddies when we were racing and the interchangeability between Chevy, Buick, Olds & Pontiac, both mechanically and body was incredible.

This past week I had a chance to get started on the insert plates for the NACA duct inlets. left side close to done, little more too do! Matching the right side should be fun! 🤥

Agreed, but with blown out fenders, low profile tires, way better wheel than most today; I’d buy it over nearly all the other SUV out there today! That all look like they came of the same copy machine!

That’s going to be a tuff piece to repair! I believe that those were a blend of acrylic & vinyl. The clear is acrylic the black is vinyl. Which is why so many would first crack between the clear & the black. Being to dissimilar materials finding something that will bond to both for the long term and use of the wheel may be an issue.

Pretty sure those will fit! Typically GM trim clips across line in sister models.

I think all of us who do what we do are very patient! I also think it’s a lot of what my buddy JustA says, “a lot of love” Actually the steering wheels were not that hard, time consuming, but not hard. The piece I made for Frosty, that took some patience and the other end of the file spectrum. Files so small they were made for elf’s! I don’t think he would mind if I should you.

A Big freaking file! Seriously! & a lot of muscle, sandpaper & patiences! Front view gas pedal nobody makes a fined valve cover, sooo make your own! Oh & dip stick handle. My Last Indian trunk emblem! big freaking files

Kiwi here you go! took an OEM wheel ripped it apart. Cut off the outer ring, cut the arms to shorten them down so I could finish at a 13” outside diameter when finished in the wood. Took a piece of 3/4 aluminum round stock and rolled outer ring, tig welded everything back together. start cutting and grooving black walnut, oak & Mahogany woods, as you can see with .030 copper plate on each side of the Mahogany. drill through the 3/4 round stock to bolt the wood plates on each side together. The plates stagger each joint on the opposite side. finish with copper plugs &copper tubing filled with black walnut dowel. The side pieces for the radio controls are carved out of solid aluminum & then bolted to the wheel on the back side. this is one of the upper motor mounts I designed, the other side looks similar,. These attach to the engine completely different. They actually hold the motor with very little movement, but you get the engine vibrations transmitted like you do if you use stiffer bushings with the stock mounts. gas pedal! gas pedal, brake pedal. Parking brake pedal, black walnut & oak console top with arrowhead. first handmade gear shift lever. new gear shift lever front grilles for front cover insert grille for hood

The “69” was just incredible! I have raced quarter miles, saloon racing and road courses for many many years! I drove them, built them and designed suspension for them, but never did one handle like the “69” did after I finished the full frame & suspension mods. I had removed 300 pounds from the car by cutting out the entire floor from firewall back, all of it and all from above CG. That is a very heavy floor triple panel in some places because of the unibody. Long story short, I never got to drive behind the car, but many that did told me over and over that it changed lanes like a slot car. That kind of maneuverability & 600hp were a pretty fun combination. The “74” handle really well too, but a little more docile, not quite as aggressive & only about 350hp. The bumpers you mentioned! Those were an abortion if I ever saw one! Aluminum and steel in the winter! Water, salt! Seriously they might as well have connected a battery to it and forget the alternator! So when I rebuilt it I gutted the bumpers! No steel leafs, got rid of them all. Just the aluminum bumper! Welded up some Stainless steel extension brackets that extended out from the frame and mounted the bumpers solid. In doing that I moved the bumpers in about 4” closer to the body and got rid of the flexible vinyl body color intermediate piece they used.

Ok! Bit of a long winded answer, sorry! Both Frosty & JustA are correct with a caveat! The window trim would use Frosty’ tool! Not his tool, but the one he showed. The upper trim that wraps around the window? It depends on what kind of clips are used? That I’m not sure of. So you might be able to use the window trim tool, but my guess is it could be what I think JustA I suggesting. You have to remove the inside panels and remove a nut. I actually think it’s another type of clip though. This type of clip has two upset lips on each end that snap into the inside groove of the trim on each side. Possibly with a nutted clip at each finished end. I would take a couple plastic body filler spreaders at the rear glass area and insert them, one on top of the other, under the trim. This should raise the trim up. If it doesn’t raise it enough to see under the trim use a broad blade putty knife between the two spreaders to raise it more to see if you can tell what type of clip. Once that is known removal will be much easier. The steering wheel! Well obviously you have to pull it. I think Frosty’s on the right track! Clearly you have to get rid of all the plastic on the ring. If you can pull the broken section back in place where the ring looks round & you can weld it that’s the simplest. But you more than likely will have to cut the plastic on the two arms back as well. Than getting a material that will adhere to the old existing plastic and fill the rim without cracking may be a challenge. I have a few thoughts as to how you might restore it as best you can without sending it to a restorer, but see what you find when you take it apart first.

I think this link will work? This was posted back in “17” I owned both a “69” & “74” Z both were massively modified as you will see, if the link works. The “74” was my wife’s the “69” was mine part, just part of the reason for the massive mods were to many winters in Northeast Ohio! Lots of hard winter lots of salt! And yes we drove them year around. Believe me when I say, winter, big horsepower, rear wheel drive, is nothing but shear fun!

I’ve done a little here and there, but I can put something together. Take a look on the progression forum at FWD ground pounder, that shows some of the different things.

It’s why I have always loved GM products! Not in all cases, but they, better than most always seemed to extract the best from a particular division and transfer it across all their lines!

Correct Frosty! I know I said code, but the data, not a code, indicates a cat issue not a sensor issue, or at least that’s the way I interpret it to be. Which is way I said a cat issue or pipe.

I have a GM code book from my days in the business, but I do believe if you put that in to a search for 7e8 engine code you can find it that way too.

That warms the cockles of my heart buddy! I couldn’t think of a better place I would rather see it!

Great job! We love to see Pontiac’s being loved!

I couldn’t agree with my buddy JustA more! Great collection. Love the “70” Camaro! “69” Z was first love & my first new car! Broke my heart to sell it in 2004. I would love to see the Rams!

I think you need to look in the mirror son! You’re the one who is posting to a topic long closed, 2 years old, from someone asking about lights for his car. your purpose was clearly look at me, look at me! Look what I know!

Done!

Cole, first of all if I made you feel that I was insulting you I apologize, but I wasn’t. You made a blanket statement about Cibies’ and T3 lights, which could be quite misleading to others and we were all speaking about classic car fitment, be it 7” or 5 ¾” round. So there is not a lot to choose from. While I never mentioned it, because I was sure you would respond back, those specific Cibie lights were Z-Beams, which were different than the standard H4 Cibie light. Additionally Cibies Z-Beams haven’t been made since 1986 and Cibies ceased all production in 1992 with next to no US sale for a few years prior to that. That said there was at the time and still are some reproductions and knockoffs being made and sold. Hence the statement, you did not! And your reply, they were not hard to obtain reenforces that. As far as the gibberish, not (jibberish) goes, I will presume your understanding of the physics of light, its transmission as well as its makeup are not part of your wheelhouse. Otherwise your statements of volume, of which there is volume to be expressed for light! Intensity yes, wavelength yes, color yes, reflective property’s, absorption yes. Light and it’s transmission are an entire science all its own. HIDs and LEDs are different than a glowing tungsten wire or a glowing tungsten wire surrounded by halogen gas! Those two light forms are good not because of the electrical draw reduction, but because of the wavelength of light they can produce that a tungsten wire and halogen can’t. In which case has nothing to do with the mechanism that transmits the light, thus back to the original Cibie Z-Beam! This was meant to teach not correct!

I understand you may think you had some Cibie’s, but if you are comparing them to T3’s then you did not! First of all Cibie are only non sealed Halogen lights! Which in the 1990 were still illegal in the US for highway use. Which made them difficult to obtain. T3 are sealed beam! Second Cibie’s are a special metal parabolic housing, that use pure silver that is plated on to the housing, with a patented specifically cut 24% lead crystal lense that distributes the light very similar to a cutoff projection headlight. This combination presents a wider flatter, but further out light pattern than any past or present sealed beam headlight! This headlight became the benchmark that all the marketers of today try to achieve. The very advertising photos they use to show are exactly the same type photo Cibie used in the late 1960’s. They also were quite pricey! Third, with respect to light, any light, when used for illumination, but with concentration, there are two very important requirements! Number one is the design of the parabolic and it’s reflective surface characteristic! Then the all important Kelvin temperature. This temperature, color spectrum, determines how things are illuminated. This feature and only this feature is a more desirable element than the stock Halogen bulb! But in today’s world you could and can install an HID or LED bulb and have the best of both worlds! The fact is that a 7” round parabolic is the best headlight shape followed by a 5” round! Followed by nothing! One of the main reasons manufacturers stated producing projection headlights was because their chopped up sculpted headlight designs just plain sucked! They needed a way to get back to an honest parabolic shape to be able to reflect light with the physical properties that come from that physics law!