I can’t believe I have never started a progression thread for my 1994 Buick Roadmaster Limited (a.k.a. the Roadmonster). It was my parent’s last brand new car. I inherited it when my dad passed away in 2018.

It has.the LT-1 350 V8, a 4L60-E transmission, burgundy velour interior and 127k miles on it. As a Limited Edition, it’s loaded with options.

I took in on Hot Rod Power Tour in 2023. I have a great shot of it and me coming out of turn 4 at Atlanta Motor Speedway! I was accused of bringing my living room sofa with air conditioning on Power Tour!!!! 😂

Edited yesterday at 01:24 AM1 day by Frosty

The main reason I started this particular thread is because I have had to do maintenance on the Roadmonster. I talked earlier this year when i had to replace a HVAC module because the interior fan would not shut off with the ignition off and the key out. I also found out the blower resistor is different between a manual controled or an electriconically controlled HVAC controls.

Now I am working on the steering wheel. After 32 years of my dad and I driving this land yacht, the vinyl steering wheel has gone black at the top from finger prints, dirt and oil.

This what I started with.

The black looks bad against the rest of the burgundy interior.

First thing I did was disconnect the battery and wait for about 20-30 minutes. This was to insure any residual capacitor charge had dissipated. Can’t have the airbag going off in my face!

First I removed the two T30 torx screws in the back, pried out of the airbag / horn assembly and disconnect it. The yellow wire fires the airbag. The green clip has to be removed before you can unplug the airbag connector.

Once the airbag is off, a regular steering wheel puller is used to remove the wheel.

I was lucky in the sense that there is no physical damage to the wheel that needs to be repaired first, just discoloration. So I proceeded to clean the snot out of it. I used a dirt/grime/degreaser first. Next I hit it with a red Scotch Brite pad to dull up the finish and create some tooth for the paint. Next was the wax and grease remover, then lacquer thinner, followed by an adhesion promoter. I was also wearing gloves while doing all this cleaning.

I did the same thing with the airbag but while cleaning with the lacquer thinner, I used a tooth brush to clean the Buick logo and the tight cracks of the airbag.

Now it’s time to apply the SEM burgundy Color Coat paint/dye.

I am almost out of paint but I think I have adequately covered everything. The wheel was worse than the airbag, so it needed more coats to cover the black plus it is simply a larger piece to paint, on both sides. It needs both sides painted, the airbag has only one side that needs painting.

The paint is currently drying. The next step is to apply a low luster clear coat. A matte clear might be even better if I can find one. I don’t want or need a shiny wheel but I want to make sure it is protected for another 30 years.

I will post more when I apply the clear.

Edited yesterday at 02:10 AM1 day by Frosty

ahhhhh i love a good steering wheel rebuilding thread !!!

Hello Frosty,

Use the best rattle can catalyzed matte clear known as "2K Spraymax Glamour". It has a breakable ampule of activator / hardener inside the can that makes this stuff hard as nails and you only have about 24 hours of usable pot life inside the can before it cures and can't be sprayed anymore. Definitely use a good NIOSH respirator mask with this stuff - the cyanide related compounds are nasty. You will need to go to a professional automotive paint store to find Spraymax - not findable at Lowes or Home Depot.

An LT-1 motor. I have always heard that the "OptiSpark" module behind the water pump was trouble due to water intrusion from pump leaks.

Rick

Man, should have tossed my armrest atcha. That's my interior color! Nice job!

3 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Man, should have tossed my armrest atcha. That's my interior color! Nice job!

SEM Color Coat Burgundy. You can find it on Amazon, eBay, etc.

Heck Massa’s may have it. I know how much you love to hang out there!

Edited 12 hours ago12 hr by Frosty

5 hours ago, B52bombardier1 said:

Hello Frosty,

Use the best rattle can catalyzed matte clear known as "2K Spraymax Glamour". It has a breakable ampule of activator / hardener inside the can that makes this stuff hard as nails and you only have about 24 hours of usable pot life inside the can before it cures and can't be sprayed anymore. Definitely use a good NIOSH respirator mask with this stuff - the cyanide related compounds are nasty. You will need to go to a professional automotive paint store to find Spraymax - not findable at Lowes or Home Depot.

An LT-1 motor. I have always heard that the "OptiSpark" module behind the water pump was trouble due to water intrusion from pump leaks.

Rick

Thanks for the tip B52. I will keep it mind for the future. I do have a solid respirator.

I try not to cross paint manufacturers very often. One never knows if there is a chemical reaction between two different products that might destroy the paint job causing you to start over.

As for the Optic spark, yes it is hands down the Achilles Heal of the LT1. What is more mind boggling is replacing the electric water pump. It’s three hundred dollars and up for a new one!

New AC Delco and aftermarket OptiSpark distributors now have water drain holes in them to prevent water intrusion and killing the distributor. Fortunately for me, this car still has the original OptiSpark and water pump. Knock on wood.

People have come up with ways to run the LT1 with an LS coil pack and ECm or a traditional distributor, thus eliminating the OptiSpark. Is it worth it? I have no idea.

Edited 12 hours ago12 hr by Frosty