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Keane165's 1970 LeMans

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1980 TA Overheating_Need help


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Hi. I just joined the forum and would like some help. I have a 1980 Firebird Trans am, 4.9, automatic, air, non turbo. I have had the car since new. drove it for the first 11 years and then put it away for the last 30 years. I would start it up every few months and let it run or drive it around the block. It ran great. The last few years I started to have an oil leak and transmission leak. 

I have recently had a friend with my son change all the hoses, belts, spark plugs, wires, rebuilt the carb, new front end, shocks front and back, new exhaust with corvette catalytic converters, new aluminum rad 3 core, you get the picture. lots of work done since last fall.

the problem I am having is when I start the car it runs great, if I leave it in the drive way the temperature slowly rises to around 220 then the car bogs down and dies. If I drive the car around from cold until the temperature reaches around 220 it just bogs down again and dies. I have to start the car up let it drive for about 20 yards then it dies again. I barely make it back home. I have changed the thermostat twice now and drain the antifreeze twice.

Any adivse out there

 

Thanks

Mike

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hi mike, sounds like two issues too me. 1 is your carb, that will be your boging down issue, check the float levels .and accelerator pump 

other is maybe a water pump ???? have you flushed the block since its sat for years ?

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3 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

hi mike, sounds like two issues too me. 1 is your carb, that will be your boging down issue, check the float levels .and accelerator pump 

other is maybe a water pump ???? have you flushed the block since its sat for years ?

Fitzy another member here tore his engine down to find all passages around the cyls plugged. (check his post in the forum) Basicly coolent turns to acid when not changed.  Destroys everything from radiator to head gaskets.   Try a good backflush....Moving the liquid reverse of the normal flow. 

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5 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Fitzy another member here tore his engine down to find all passages around the cyls plugged. (check his post in the forum) Basicly coolent turns to acid when not changed.  Destroys everything from radiator to head gaskets.   Try a good backflush....Moving the liquid reverse of the normal flow. 

i agree with JustA, it could be a block issue... now as a plumber! my suggestion  is the drop the top and bottom radiator hoses, make your self a fitting from the inch and 1/2 top radiator hose into the motor to a garden hose fitting and pressure wash the block out... if you can run house water pressure through the motor and its not restricted... then thats not you issue.

 you need to look at the radiator and water pump...

 kind a process of elimination Mike :cheers:

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How much rust N gunk came out of the rad when you changed the hoses?  Has it gotten better after antifreeze changes?  Said youv'e changed it twice. Save your antifreeze this time.  Too dang expensive.  Put a T-shirt over a funnel when refilling the rad, if you still have rust/gunk in it.   Try the backflush.

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I believe I commented on the T/A site & u replied “I have gone on YouTube and other sites and have read about the electronic control module and the coil to be replaced. I have ordered the two parts and am waiting for delivery. ” Did u receive install the parts u ordered? Was there any improvement? If the coil & the elect. Control Mod. didn’t help & I don’t believe u related on the T/A forum that u or ur son & a friend rebuilt the carb. That would be the next thing as suggested here to check on! Could b ur running “Great” as u say while auto choke is operating w & when it opens full as temp reaches operating parameter, with the full air intake ur fuel to air ratio drops & u bog. This could b a carb issue except it sounds like u had the same issue before rebuilding the carb. So as the vehicle sat a lot in its life id check the fuel screen filter @ the carb. to see if it has dark or rust debris. U may need to clean ur fuel lines & gas tank. Sitting a lot causes rust in tank which will foul the fuel line. I have a ‘40 ford pickup that had similar issue to urs & that’s what it was. When first starting ran good after 15 minutes after choke opened not, gas starved.  

Unfortunately w old cars symptoms it is trial & error. I believe I said previously in the T/A forum reply 220 degrees is not that hot for a 1980 T/A & shouldn’t cause bogging & stalling. While the advice on clogged water ports in ur block are valid if if ur temps were 20 degrees higher which could cause roughness & stalling. I don’t think cooling is the problem as u indicate it doesn’t go over 220 degrees which I believe is midrange on a stock 1980 T/A temp gauge. Flushing an oldster is always a good idea but I don’t think it’s the issue or the cure! 

 


 

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1 hour ago, TboneWS6 said:

I believe I commented on the T/A site & u replied “I have gone on YouTube and other sites and have read about the electronic control module and the coil to be replaced. I have ordered the two parts and am waiting for delivery. ” Did u receive install the parts u ordered? Was there any improvement? If the coil & the elect. Control Mod. didn’t help & I don’t believe u related on the T/A forum that u or ur son & a friend rebuilt the carb. That would be the next thing as suggested here to check on! Could b ur running “Great” as u say while auto choke is operating w & when it opens full as temp reaches operating parameter, with the full air intake ur fuel to air ratio drops & u bog. This could b a carb issue except it sounds like u had the same issue before rebuilding the carb. So as the vehicle sat a lot in its life id check the fuel screen filter @ the carb. to see if it has dark or rust debris. U may need to clean ur fuel lines & gas tank. Sitting a lot causes rust in tank which will foul the fuel line. I have a ‘40 ford pickup that had similar issue to urs & that’s what it was. When first starting ran good after 15 minutes after choke opened not, gas starved.  

Unfortunately w old cars symptoms it is trial & error. I believe I said previously in the T/A forum reply 220 degrees is not that hot for a 1980 T/A & shouldn’t cause bogging & stalling. While the advice on clogged water ports in ur block are valid if if ur temps were 20 degrees higher which could cause roughness & stalling. I don’t think cooling is the problem as u indicate it doesn’t go over 220 degrees which I believe is midrange on a stock 1980 T/A temp gauge. Flushing an oldster is always a good idea but I don’t think it’s the issue or the cure! 

 


 

You bring up some good points, But like you also said, crapshoot of trial N Error.  With it sitting that long,  starting an suckin old gas into those bowls, it has to be nasty.  Choke makes alot of sense.

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Justa6, sounds like w the trial & error part U have been there as I have on many an occasion 😳😂😂

Edited by TboneWS6
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6 hours ago, TboneWS6 said:

Justa6, sounds like w the trial & error part U have been there as I have on many an occasion 😳😂😂

For too many years. :willy_nilly: Then again, if it was easy, everybody would be playin our game!  

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