Andy H

Finally got the distributor so i headed over to my buddy over the weekend and ran it on the test bench and it was right on out of the box. Got it installed today and hopefully start up this coming weekend, not quite happy with the routing of the wires so may have to work on that later on a bit.

Don't think you can go wrong with butler, not the cheapest but they got a lot of experience.

Check out butler performance, looks like they have a starter motor plate https://butlerperformance.com/i-24452959-pontiac-starter-adapter-mount-starter-on-1964-and-earlier-blocks-bpi-p010004.html

Someone suggested using stainless like safety wire and bend them so they look like the stock staples, the holes are already there so I might try that. I think bolts is a no. To big and bulky. And apparently the rubber pieces i have aren't the right ones for the car either I've found out but for a Camaro, they came with the car.

what are you guys using to Secure these to the inner fender? Anybody using some kind of plastic clips instead of the factory staples? Update on the distributor cluster ******* Sent it back to Amazon, ordered a new one but no shipping date so I'm waiting and finally they canceled the order 🙄 Ordered a new one from Summit and new shipping date is 12 of October 🤬 Should have contacted petronix instead since they are somewhat lokal, to late now so stay tuned.

Have always wondered about that stuff,thanks guy's. Just another 5 cents, i have noticed that if you have a car you that sits and the gas evaporates out of the carburetor especially if you run one with A power valve it happens that the acceleration pump and power valve dries out and start leaking so it's a good idea to start the car at least once a week to fill the carburetor. A friend of mine has a hot rod with a electric fuel pump he installed a prime button/ switch under the dash so he doesn't have to start the car. This of course only works on a car that you drive every now and then different story if you put the car in storage for example the winter.

Yes a 60 year old one and the safety neutral switch also+ going through the firewall connector,all the Cummins engines at work use these but a 24 v version and they rarely die.

Yes for sure, wanted to fire it up and brake in the cam this coming weekend so my son could be there before he and the wife takes of to move grandpa for three weeks. Took the distributor over to my buddy and put it on the distributor machine to tweek the timing curve, fired it up and it worked for a whole 3 seconds before it quit, sent it back and ordered a new one.so it might not get here until next week, may have to go home from early one day to fire it up. Got the plug wires done and starter relay installed.

Got some important pieces to make it run so maybe in a week or so. All they had for Pontiac was the billet style of distributor, would have preferred the as cast stock looking, the picture is with my -32 distributor next to the Pontiac one. Also got this cool relay for the starter, all the Cummins engines at work use it but they are 24v so i ordered s 12v version, we'll have to see if I can make it fit/ work.

Ok so cable bracket built/ modified no on to fuel pipe/ return spring bracket that will be tomorrow, getting closer to start up just need a ignition system getting a petronix distributor and coil, have to get a hold of a buddy that used to work there wanted to see if maybe they have a as cast distributor housing instead of the shiny one ( i have one for my -32) but not sure they make one. See the theme here? 🤔😁 Not so shiny. I'll bring the bracket to work on Monday and bead blast it then paint.

It helps, thank you, so a lot of cars probably have a rod instead of a cable stock ( mine has cable stock) i asked in three places but you are the only one that posted some pictures so maybe most cars have rods? I ordered a bracket that bolt to the intake but it doesn't have any mounting provisions for the cables so it is only a partial solution. I also have a old bracket that bolts to the carb bolts like in our pictures but to fit it needs to be modified.

Next is throttle cable bracket, any ideas? Pictures? Have Edelbrock performer intake and need One for throttle and kick down cable

As long it last until the warranty is over 😁 doesn't mean it is the best solution but it's cheap and it works good enough 🤔

I bet most of the time the rubber lines where added when the lines cracked/ leaked because of to much flexing, a lot of newer cars have hoses crimped on to the hardlines, i thought it was a little different with the way the lines was routed via the frame but that's how the factory did it.

That's the way they stock trans cooler lines are run and mounted took quite a while before i found some pictures of it and i also had my stock line but they where pretty twisted up. Most older cars have one piece tubes all the way but the one's i have done in the past have been run next to the oil pan and out in front. I believe that most cars that has hoses at one end has been cut and modified, we will find out how it works. JSD M073 Pontiac Polished Aluminum Water Neck Thermostat Housing 326 350 389 400 421 455 https://a.co/d/7Pjkjif Didn't care for the shiny look so i bead blasted it and painted it 😁

So i finally found some pictures of how the trans cooler lines are supposed to run an it's apparently on the outside of the manifold so i made some lines pretty close to that, had to make one splice on the line that goes to the left side of the car, they did not have any longer one's, they turned out ok but still waiting for som clips/ clamps from inline tube to hold the lines together. Got the adjustable thermostat housing to work with the hose i got from Ames, didn't care for the shiny look so i bead blasted it and painted it to look more stock. Got a new alternator from power master, not a big fan of the color of the pulley and fan but I'll leave it at least for now. Had a old 19" fan leftover from some other car and it fits in n the shroud. Next up is the bracket for throttle and kick down cable's, because of the Edelbrock intake nothing fit's.

next up is to make trans cooler lines but don't know how they where run stock, between pan and exhaust or on the outside of the exhaust along the frame? anyone got some pics?

The wire that should be connected to the battery is the 30 terminal and no it will not consume any power, it's like a switch that is not turned on at that time but do install a fuse on that wire

very cool signs and now you have the perfect place to hang them.👍🙂

tight it is,hopefully not to tight so i get vibrations, i'm sure stock had rubber bushings but no one have them available. still dont like the stock bracket that hold the shifter handle, very flimsy.

Finished welding the last exhaust pieces after i ran out of gas and had to refill and of course the bottle had to get recertified also. Painted the pieces i built, the rest is aluminized and installed, it came out pretty good. Also added a o2 sensor port for tuning later on, always wanted to get an A/F ratio meter. Got my bushings and installed them in all the shifter joints, i love McMaster Carr they have such a good assortment of stuff that is hard to find and almost all the bushing had a nice press fit just had to adjust the height on a few of them. Next is core support sanding and painting.

Yes and that way you don't have to poke around under the dash,

Get a relay and see if the original wire to the coil will trigger it, run it to the 86 terminal on the relay , run a wire to ground from the 85 terminal, run a wire with a inline fuse holder from horn relay to 30 on relay then run wire from 87 to coil

Congrats to your new project i know you need one it would be a terrible thing if you ran out of shit to do 😋😁 i Wich i had half of all the energy you have, staying tuned.

Exhaust system is pretty much in there but it's going slow now the only thing left is to finish the pipes to the manifolds, the exhaust guy swaged a couple of pipe stubs since those pieces needed to be 2 1/4" and the rest of the system is 2 1/2", found some nice Walker flanges that i think will work. Got the second round of bends from the exhaust guy and he expanded the 2 1/4" pieces so they fit snug inside the larger pipes. 4 bends and he tweaked those pieces $30, thought that was pretty good. While I was waiting for the exhaust flanges i started on the shifter linkage, what a mess not only is the factory design kind of crappy with a bell crank under the floor but every bushing is shot and also a couple of places that doesn't have bushings stock is going to need bushings. Took some measurements and ordered a few different ones from Mac master carr, was not able to find any listings anywhere else.