Andy H

Very cool 👍

Oh yes, brake shoe, short one in ft, make sense that's what I have seen on most cars. Yes the acetone trick kind of stuck because that one will work for some of my stuff also. Yes know about " home work" we just had that discussion this morning and i think we agreed to wait with the next one until fall, still waiting for my A/C guy to get time to install my mini split in the family room and somehow it will probably create some more work also.

You are making a lot of us look bad and lazy 😆 you are getting so much done, nice job. Didn't you paint something before and then used acetone or something to take the paint of the shiny part on the piece? Is that how you are doing this?

Have not done a lot lately, the boss decided to pay off the solar panels we installed a year ago so the funding kind of dried a bit for now but it will get better. Been working on the heater box ( no funding needed for that) repaired the heater core hold down and got the inside of the car unit painted and put together. The gasket kit i got from OPGI wasn't that great, no instructions, seals was a bit thin and i think i you have a non a/c car it would fit better. Started to install the firewall insulation and figured out that it didn't fit very good on a A/C car, according to OPGI catalog it has " flawless craftsmanship" and it is for all 64s but not quite the case. Looked in the Ames catalog and they have the same $40 part but also a $170 version that do have different part # for ac and non ac car, $40 or $170 hmmm, think i will have to modify the one i have and make it work.

No need to change brakes if you are happy with the rims and the rim choice's out there. Those 8 lugs are such a iconic Pontiac thing. Let us know what your brake guy says about the shoes.

Cool, have seen those pressure washer blasters and wasn't sure how good they work especially what happens when you are done, flash rusting Before it dries? Is a really hot day better for this? Not being familiar with the Pontiac 8 lugs i see that the driveaxles look like the regular 5 bolts can you just replace the drum with a 5 bolt if you wanted to? You are making great progress 👍🙂

That came out clean, could have been factory, what is the little red thingy next to coolant bottle?

let us know how that sleeve worked out.

Happy New Year 🍻, that worked out great nice. My stock air cleaner is the same as your 2$ air cleaner and is also for a 2bbl, i was hoping to find another base or modify mine for a 4 bbl. I guess i have to go to some swap meets and look around, don't even know if there is a 4bbl version of that style, may have to do what you did but cut the bottom part out and replace it instead. It's 5C here in Socal this morning.

yes and mine look similar and its the same part# so i will have to get one to.

found this https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/pontiac,1964,bonneville,6.4l+389cid+v8,1350425,engine,harmonic+balancer+repair+sleeve,5408 I will probably need one also, thanks for the tip Fitzy.

Probably not very important to do total timing on a stock engine, but looks like your timing light can do it. Rev the engine up until the timing doesn't move up any more and hold it there and then i think you can dial it back to zero on the balancer with the total timing button on the light and just read it right there.

Dwell,points what is that??? Does cars still have that?😁😆🍺. Did a lot of that waaay.back in the day. nice timing light, i would like to have one of those, can you check total timing at higher rpm also? my front pulley is scored also maybe not quite as bad but not sure I will be able to find anybody around here that can sleeve it without taking out a second on the house, there used to be repair sleeves you could buy but haven't found any.

Sounds like it's going to be a great educational experience the only trans i have rebuilt was a th350 and that was before there was any smart phones to take pictures with so that will be a important tool. Good luck, looking forward to your story.

Sounds like a plan,I knew a few🍻 and some goggle would do the trick, if i understand it correctly it's not like you are going to rebuild the whole trans just reseal it? Good luck keep us posted.

Yup my 64 same thing

Tried to find the dimensions on the transmission that is currently in the car but have not found any so far, all they mention is the 350 and 400. As far as lock up i have run a pressure switch for 4th gear in the valve body and a switch on the dash to turn it off, i would imagine that the same thing can be done with the th200, no need to buy a expensive controller or something, some kits use a vacuum switch and i just don't see the need for this based on previous experiences.

Ohh yes I did not answer your first question, i have not put a TH 200 4r in anything only th700 but have a friend that ran one for a while behind his 383 SB. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/gm-th200-4r-transmission-conversions Just something i found real quick, I'm sure there is more out there or other people right here that has more info.

I don't know all the details but as far as I know most of them had the BOP bolt pattern so should bolt right up, uses a TV cable, no rod and no vacuum, i think it uses the same yoke as a th350, there is cut to fit diy speedo cables and as far as speedo gears just figure out what you have in your current trans and match that gear ratio. May have to adjust the length of the driveshaft and move the cross member. This is definitely something that is on my wich list, so if your trans need to be rebuilt that should be a good time to do it. Do you have to certify a trans swap? Would they even know?😳 Sounds like s little time with MR Google is needed. And 🍻

Sounds like a good time to install a overdrive trans maybe a TH 2004R?

Been working on the heater box, had some pinholes at the bottom so JB weld to the rescue, to thin too weld and then coated the whole bottom with epoxy so hopefully it will be water resistant. Have this sealing flange that goes on the inside by the side kick panel where the heater box connect to any ideas where to get a new seal for this? Also missing the strap that holds the heater box. Heater core hold down, bought new ones but not the same, may have to make one, think the one's i got is for none ac car. The right two is the original one's.

Stopped by the auto parts store and got some fuel hose, bought the good stuff for fuel injection, two 3' Pieces $40, holy smokes. Also got this cool kit with clamps, i don't like the hose clamps with holes in them so i decided to use the springy ones look like something the factory would use.

Funny, TV was on in the lunch room today when I walked in and they where showing a episode of garage squad working on a 64 GTO and having the same issue not being able to get the tank filler pipe out for the same reason as mine.

Figured it out, drilled some holes in a heavy gauge square tubing to match the one's in the frame, spaced it out at the corners installed some long bolts and pulled the frame out. While I was working on this my brake hose showed up from Amazon 2pm on a Sunday amazing so before i installed the tank i installed the rear brake lines.

Blew out the fuel lines and rear brake lines with brake cleaner and air, good thing I did found that the rear brake hose was plugged, got a new one coming tomorrow from Amazon. Glued on some tar paper to the top of the tank last night, have seen that there is special insulator's för this for anti rattle but what's wrong with tar paper? Also free in this case left over from the roof replacement last year. Tried to install tank but the rear frame piece is puched in about 1/2" to 3/4" so the filler tube won't fit between the body and the frame. Think i will have to flip the car around and hook it up to my suburban to pull it out but my driveway is not flat in i don't have any brakes yeat, I'll have to figure it out.