Andy H

So eventually maybe i get to work on the car again, house renovations done for now and after i get one of the kids of to college in a couple of weeks it might be my turn. Ordered trunk floor panels from summit, Sherman brand, about half the price from OPGI but we will have to see when they show up, any one have any experience with this brand? Also made a trip down to OPGI and got a fuel tank sending unit and some tank strap insulators. My original sending unit had a 5/16" hose fitting with a 1/4" return but this is apparently not available so i had to settle for one without a return, kinda like the idea of a return to keep the fuel a little bit cooler so what to do? drill a hole and install one or suck it up and run it without? Also got the insulation for the inside of the firewall but of course i forgot to get the rear wheel cylinders, i will probably just order those from Rock Auto.

Still pretty tight with header's even on my Lemans, also my stock manifolds don't look quite as restricted as yours. Probably going to keep my manifolds.

Very nice, can you imagine putting regular headers in, Pontiac with their exhaust port's oriented the way they are don't make it easy, like your oil filter relocation.

Found this car at the donut shop in HB this morning. Got intrigued by the intake manifold, any body that can educate me on what this is? Car also had bucket seats and a 4 speed.

Hope that came with a flange also😟

Yeah that's the reason I would like to use the 8 bolt cover , everything should be there since it came installed in the car when i got it. Just wanted to see if anyone has had better luck with the 11 bolt as far as cooling.

Looking for thoughts, opinions , experience's. Have a 70 350 I'm going to put in my 64 Le mans it came with a 11 bolt water pump but it doesn't have all the brackets for accessories I also have the 8 bolt cover and all the brackets from the original 326 engine. My thoughts are to use the 8 bolt set up since it's complete. 8 bolt vs 11 bolt pros and cons? Does it matter?

Very nice job, you are truly very multi talented and the amount of progress is amazing, I'm afraid it will take a bit longer for me to get to where you are.

Don't move to california about $4.00 for regular

Frosty, that wasn't me, i seem to recognize that from another Post maybe? 🙂 I wish I was that far along.

Yeas it got to be hard to put all the pieces back together all painted, I'm thinking of option number two ill have to take the car home in between and put it together before final outside paint but i guess ill have to talk to the painter and get his opinion.

got the brake lines in the front bent up, may have to redo the rear brake one at the master when i get the 10psi check and Proportioning Valve but that's OK. got inspired by 64 kiwi boni for those loops by the master. Almost time to put the wheels on and turn the car around to take the tank down and start working on the trunk floor.

Wow ,what a progress, nicely done, nice garage to, looks like you are a busy guy, you sure you have time for that work thing? How are you going about paint? are you going to paint inside of the fenders and door/ trunk openings and then reassemble before painting the outside or are you going to paint everything in pieces?

Ohh that's right, saw the steering box in your pictures, right under the exhaust manifold

So how much shorter are those spacer sleeves then the stock ones for the sway bar links? Nice with a stiffer sway bar these older cars need help in that department, would like to add one in the rear of mine eventually but first things first

Had been looking at possible doing that before and when i saw yours im like hmmm, only thing is how much space is there going to be between sway bar and steering rod when car gets down to ride height? definitively cut some off when i get that far should give me that extra space i need for my hose.

Looking good, almost time for a test drive? Typical parts,always got to check everything, trust nobody. Are those sway bar links stock? they look short, maybe that's what i need to do to make some more room for my front brake hoses,

yeah this is is a discussion me and my buddy has had (he builds cars for a living) and been going back and forth, so the theory is that if you run it this way the hose will just bend not stretch and crunch together when you steer now this doesn't always work as even the OE's don't always do it this way, a perfect example is the later Le Mans with factory disc brakes. so in this case here i decided to try it this way but it is a bit tight but the lenght of the hose is fine since it does not stretch, I have turned the wheel many times when relocating the hose bracket and it works but my only concern is when i get all the weight back on and the car sits at its normal ride height, we will have to see. If i have to run the hose to the original location behind the wheel i will have to get a shorter hose. i made the brake lines from the junction block to the front wheels today but still need to make the ones from the master to junction block also going to put a 10psi check valve and a adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line somewhere but have not decided where yet oh and yes it is going to be manual brakes so no booster at least for now, running a master with smaller bore instead it will be interesting to see how it works. Critic is always good it might make you think of things you didn't.

Got some time to finish the front suspension, almost, still need to make the brake lines. Anybody else got problems with aftermarket parts that don't fit or look exactly like the originals? Had to make the sway bar bushings fit, way to tall so i had to sand them down on the belt sander at work and then the hole was to small so out comes the die grinder, checked online and apparently a common problem? anybody else? Inner tie rods/steering rods, originals came with the grease fittings on the end but the new ones that came with the car had them on the back, also a common problem i guess? the "right ones" are available apparently but since i already had these i was able to put a 90` fitting on and i think it will work. Mounted the brackets for the brake caliper hose in front of the spring, a bit tight but we will have to see how it actually works when i get some weight on the front end. Finally got time to mock the engine up again after the machine shop decked it and the pistons are now flush with deck so the "best" ones are at zero deck and the lowest ones are 0.010" below deck , the way it goes i guess when you are dealing with stock factory crank, rods and cast pistons. this should put the compression around 9.2-9.3.

Got a few hours today and started to assemble the front suspension, had a hard time getting the springs in with no weight on the front end, had three people sitting on the cowl and used a spring compressor to make it happen, all new bushings, ball joints and all the steering components. tried the to see if i could use the existing bracket for the brake caliper hose but that is not going to happen, it is not going to bend correctly when turning so I'm going to have to put it in the front of the spring instead and make a new brake line to make it work also had to cut of the little "guide" on the caliper so that i can rotate the hose down slightly so it wont hit anything. Started to look at all the fittings i need for the new brake lines at the master, brake junction block and calipers and it is going to be a puzzle, four different sizes.

A zip tie won't work because it's the bulkhead connector , i might see if I it's ok with only one tab, worst case I'll just have to bite the bullet and buy a new harnes ,might try the online chat and send them a picture.

The biggest connector i found was 8 terminal and the one on the car is 10, guess i have to keep looking,but they had a bunch of other interesting stuff so thanks. Here is a picture of the connector, you can see the broken tab on the side.

Thank you, they say full size cars only but so what😄 found some possible ones right away but have to take a closer look , got to get my harness out and compare. Could even just buy a couple even if I'm not completely sure, only a few bucks each, sure beats a complete harness for over $100

Anybody been able to find the connector housing for the engine harness without having to buy the whole harness? Not the bulkhead connector but the one on the engine harness,my harness is OK but the plastic connector broke when taking it off. I'm working on a 64 Lemans but might be the same on other models?

Whatever it takes, looks good, think i will do something similar but i need two for my dual master.