Last Indian

Hey, fyi I JustA clicked your link tonight & it let me vote again! So twice in one day! Looks like you’re tied for 4th.

3 hours ago, Fabio Parede said:

I have anothers doubts:

My Shroud appears to be original. My fan appears to be from Mopar (Dodge Dart) 7 blades and 18 inches.

My water pump pulley has 8" and the main pulley (from crankshaft) is about 6 1/2". Is That correct? Because with this configuration the water pump will rotate less than the motor. I´m correct?

I have a A/C Non Original installed but not working. Only the hoses conected, no gas, no compressor belt, no electrical power to the vent inside the car. Those hoses get very hot when the engine works. Can I eliminate that hoses? I have no intention to put A/C to work (I think I will increase even more temperature)

I did not tested the Thermostat, its a "normal" 180 F (not high flow)

Any suggestions?

Thank you guys

Fabio, the pulley should be the stock 6” not 8” that slower speed could easily cause a lack of cooling at lower speeds. The shroud & fan blades are wrong, as Kiwi indicated. There needs to be only about a 1/4 “ to 1/2 “ gap between the blade tips & the shroud edge. Also, the Mopar fan might work in Dodges setup, but it’s no good for yours. You need a straight blade fan to one with bent tips. See attached photo.  
I don’t think you have blockage because it cools at higher speeds when you are move air through the radiator. I think, the fan issue, the shroud to fan issue & the  pulley size, are all combining to cause the problem.

2 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

is it justA me , or does that fan look little in that shroud ? 

Fabio, how much room is there from the end of the blades to the shroud ? that will cvertainly be loosing flow through the radiator at low speed.

No it’s not you! 

2 hours ago, Frosty said:

Voted - day #3

Dang ! Me too. I guess I’m too old & slow to beat even a snowman that has sticks for arms! 🥺

The last 3 years have been insane! Between the Covid bullshit & family & friends stuff I JustA have not had time to scratch my behind, let alone anything else. But I’ve got a new idea for what I think might be a pretty cool add to the Indian. 
That said I need to first finish a promised project for a mate. So stay tuned because I hope to start it this winter. Fingers crossed!

54 minutes ago, Fabio Parede said:

What is the correct range of temperature for a Catalina with 428 engine? I´m a little bit concearned about it and I didnt find this information. Thanks in advance

I presume you are referring to coolant temperature? If so this temperature can normally run between 160 Fahrenheit & 220 Fahrenheit, but 220 on the high  end! I would not recommend running any extended period time at that temperature. A better choice of temperature range would be 160 to 190. There are a whole lot of variables that can apply depending on what kind of performance you’re looking for.

11 minutes ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

you know i did that intensionally Last indian , i wanted your thoughts on cfm !!🙂

Chris you are such a character! 
Here’s a little more. To change the stoichiometry of combustion you must change the fuel to air ratio. So with a given volumetric efficiency (air flow) of the engine, minus the carb you must be able to either restrict that flow in some manner or change the way you meter the fuel in. So if you put a 750 CFM carb on a max rpm 500 CFM engine that engine will not flow 750 CFM. But it can run rich with fuel if not properly jetted. So while a 750 CFM carb may seem to big it’s really a jetting issue not CFM.

Case in point! My “69” Z was the famous 302. By all know standards the engine should have had no more than a 500 CFM carb. But out of the factory it came with  780 CFM & if you ordered the Cross Ram manifold setup it came with two 585 CFM carbs. So CFM is not that simple.

I had a friend back in the day that had a “69”, but it wasn’t a Z. He got a 302 from the bone yard & wanted to build it like mine. He didn’t get the carb or the intake it he engine. So when it came time for the induction system he just used his stock two barrel manifold & a 500 CFM two barrel carb! ! It was funny as hell. The car would barley move & he couldn’t get it over 25 mph.

Me too!

I can’t speak to the configuration of the attachment for the power booster to the firewall, most likely it would be different. So that would require an adapter plate. That’s not much of a big deal, at least from my first view. But with that in mind as an example, a 1969 Camaro 4 wheel drum brake master cylinder/power booster assy can be bought for around $300. This includes the distribution/proportioning block & bracket. The pedal configuration should not be an issue, but if it were you simply need to drill a new hole in the pedal arm. The weights of these two cars are close enough that there should be no disparity in braking. You can look at other GM 4 wheel drum cars as well to see if one would work even better. 
You should realize that these types of 4 wheel drum master cylinder are a sequential plunger type & employ residual pressure check valves.

He’s a handsome boy!

14 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Dang, If only I had an antenna. My antenna is in the windshield.

Well, you could get a catheter bag, alien tape it to the side glass & run a line to the carb! 

Well you could always drive it with a gas bottle hung from an IV pole!

23 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

I was going to install as a lit floormat, like you or behind the front or back L plate.  Prob is.... I'm rarely out after dark to show it off.  Sure like your steering wheel N glad to see you back here. Take a well deserved break!

JustA, the Indian has hush panels that have foot well lighting. So I pulled that panel on the drivers side popped a hole in it the size of the body. Machined a couple large plastic washers to use on each side of the hush panel, as they are JustA pressed mat material, pretty flimsy with regard to strength. In those panels are a 194 bulb & socket. So I crimped these type of connectors on the lights wiring, pulled the bulb then on the backside of the socket pushed these into the socket & electrical taped it up for a secure assembly. This way the light works with all the other interior lighting.

The other light has a bad led so I’m going to do some work on this light & see if I can build a brighter image, one that might be seen in the day light. As well as be readily replaced. I’ll keep you posted.

Well hasn’t been much play time this year, but ’finally got around to JustA’s gift from way back when! Only got one side in so far and not sure how often I’ll see it! It’s  kind of invisible in the daylight, but pretty neat at night or a dark garage! 

You can find them on ebay. Not a place I go to, but you do what you have to. The part # is 19207392. It fits “01” - “05” Aztec, “95”-“05” Sunfire, “99”-“05 Grand Am & “04”-“08” Grand Prix. So you might also try so bone yards. With so heat & patients you can extract one of a front cover. Then you’ll need to replace the two sided tape on the back.

On 5/21/2023 at 9:09 AM, TreydoggTX said:

Hello I'm looking for advice.  Have a 2007 pontiac g6 gt. I worry about the top malfunctioning and I want to do as much prevention as possible. I have the oil for the pump I haven't tried to add any extra oil. So far the top has been working fine.  

If your top doesn't come up is there a manual way to bring it up?

I will say this about your top question! Not always, but more the rule than not, there is usually more that one way to skin a cat as they say! So while I do not the the top & it’s mechanisms very well I would say there is a way to lower or raise the top with out power! And the switch that Frosty speaks of might be able to be changed to another type of device. 
Presuming this to be true now would be a good time, before a failure, to determine what those two things might be. For example, the top has to have some type of scissor arrangement. That must be connected in some manner to a drive of some kind. Disconnecting that drive & or it’s components might release the top to enable it to be moved manually, give you have the right force. For example, a small 12v gear drive with the right connection or a simple breaker  bar with the right interface connection & the right leverage. The sensor might be able to be replaced with micro switches that would need brackets made & attached in proper locations + whatever wiring that would require. 
 

Hopefully you see the point here! If you plan to keep the car long term now is the time to figure out what those things need to be or start acquiring the needed parts to replace bad ones if you can.

My two cents!