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Haha. If I didn't have a garage full of crap to get done I'd be all over that. I've done a lot for just that. (wired up a silver top in an AE86, built my buddies SS log turbo setup, and swapped the VQ35 into my current i30, acura legend engine/trans)

lol thanks. If polishing stuff took a 1/4 of the time I'd be all over doing it for other people. Until then though.. it's a labor of love.. or OCD.

Finished up the tensioner and aussie coolant elbow. I still have to buy and apply Zoop sealer though. Not perfect but about as far as I would like to go for a DD.

Amazing.

Noo. I love me some BBSes. I pretty much salivated over Super RSes till I could afford them. I own 2 sets, well 1.75 now and some 15" RSes. It's tough to improve upon perfection.

I absolutely cannot wait to go back. It's like another planet. The people have to much honor and kindness I almost don't know how to react. It's so beautiful there too.. I can just go on and on. I definitely need to pull some strings to have more time to do more exploring next time out. I'm fairly busy on work related travel. Update on the i30: I made a real primitive IAC adapter plate today for about $20-25 total. Hooked it up and the car started without the use of the throttle for the first time in 4 years. It's smoother and doesn't have to be babied on decel. Before the rpms would get pretty low if you didn't hold it in gear long enough. I'm almost embarrassed to post these pics because I spent zero extra time/effort/money. But, that was the plan. If you're not really sure what's going on: Air goes into that larger tube from after the MAF but before the TB plate (so it's still measured), then through the valve, to the smaller fitting, and then to the upper intake. It bypasses the TB plate to let more air in for starting, cold starts, high electrical loads, A/C on, etc. The engine doesn't have one since it had drive by wire (electric motor moves throttle plate) and I converted it to cable to use the stock wiring harness/pcm. The valve you see originally bolted to the original 3.0 upper intake manifold and therefore has no place on a 3.5.

I got: A tripod and strap for my camera a 12v 2/10A Diehard battery charger PJ type sweat pants Winter hat And some cash

Thanks! Here's a another little something I'm working on.. I'm about 3.5 or so inches lower and my suspension geometry is kind of crappy. My roll center is slightly below the car and I believe the crappy camber curves have something to so with my axle binding up front. (since my drivetrain is already raised) Just focusing on the front LCAs, I decided to make a carrier for an aftermarket balljoint with drop stud. I don't feel comfortable with someone cutting and rewelding my cast aluminum knuckle to make a drop spindle.. And the tie rod will most likely be flipped. Here's version 1 of the ball joint carrier. The sleeve is this part. And it accepts a Chrysler 727 screw in style lower ball joint. Howe makes a ball joint with a drop stud for this application. The studs vary from stock Chrysler height to +.1/.2/.3/.4/.5". I'm really pushing it with the dimensions of this design to keep the pivot point in the same vertical direction 90* to the stock ball joint face. These 727 ball joints are very robust and don't leave me with much room. So, some clearancing of the stock control arm end may be needed.. But swapping back to stock if need be will still be possible. In the end it will be a modular lower control arm end pivot point due to the swap-ability. I still have to check to see if the 727 stud taper and diameter will work in my knuckle and if not ream it out. I also found out a buddy at work might be able to hook me up with someone local that does CNC. Yes, I'm a little crazy.

I maintained sanity somehow, got the tenstioner down to 1500 git and started polishing. I've probably got about 2 more hours max.

I heart traveling for work. I was there 3 times within 6 months with the last time almost a year ago. It's like another planet. I'm suppose to go next month too.

The last time I was over there I saw a Gloria with perfect plates: The Y makes sense since it designates US military and I was on base at the time but the 32 was no coincidence.

Yep. State legal do to the loosness of what is considered a kit car but not the correct federal procedure and therefore not fed legal.

Hours of research positive. I know the whole importation process start to finish. The only 2 100% legal ways to get a jdm car here with the intention of driving it on U.S. roads is 1. If the car is on the approved vehicle importaion list, buy the car in Japan, have it imported by a registered importer with a deposit put down on conversion costs, ship it, have conversions done. 2. Wait till it's 25 years old and have it imported by a registered importer. There are a handful of other ways to get jdm cars here, registered and insured. Some more illegal than others.. Everyone knows someone with a jdm car, but more times than not it is not fed legal. State maybe but federal laws differ.

It's not that expensive. Just illegal.

It's tough.. There may or may not be a cefiro rear center tail in the mail.. I do like the USDM front bumper better though. I'm really hoping to find the same car/color with a decent front bumper and fender. I did set up interesting limitations for myself if you think about it. If I do/buy something for it that I can get most of my money back or it actually increases the value of that car by close to that amount, it's ok. The only other car I really want to mod is a Y32 Gloria. I could get one now if I really wanted to but it's not worth the risk IMO. 5-6 years till I can get one 100% legally. (trust me I know pretty much everything there is to know about the process)

I fixed the miss. Woot!

Yep. It's 100% beater status.

I recently picked this up to drive for when I'm working on my Bonneville. Short history is my buddy bought this car in 04, did a 5-spd swap then eventually a VQ35 swap. I pretty much did the 3.5 swap. In addition to swapping all the 3.0 timing equipment, I had cam spacers cnc'd, decided where to have the intake cams drilled, converted the DBW TB to cable, and a bunch of other misc things. Mod list is: VQ35, vlsd-5mt, working VIAS, Y-pipe, 2.5 cat back, short throw, safc, wbo2, Q45 front calipers, drop springs, and cefiro headlights. The car is in pretty rugged shape cosmetically, but the price reflected that. What I will do with the car will be very much the opposite of the Bonneville. Anything that I do to it will either increase the value of the car by that amount or could be sold for close to purchase price. I'm not saying I won't do a few things here and there, that's impossible for me. But, this car will not be a mod money pit or replace the Bonneville in any way. I've always had a thing for this car due to seeing it and helping it evolve over the last 6 years. So, it's cool to have as a beater even past it's prime. I have to diag a intermittent misfire (might have that fixed tomorrow), and make a IAC adapter. Hopefully after that this thing will be good to go. 220-230 whp, 5 speed with LSD, not bad for a beater?

I'm about 6 hours into polishing the tensioner assembly. It'll probably take 15. It's about 80% done with 220 grit, with everything taken down to 180 prior to. Still have to do 320, 400, 500, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and polish. The hardest part is over though. I'm banking on Zoop sealer working this time vs. clear powdercoat. I've had things clear powdercoated in the past and there was some spidering oxidation that happened under the clear. Other than the tensioner, I still have an aluminum coolant elbow and SS heater core fitting. I have to strip and re-do my alt and master cylinder do to powdercoat damage. But, my thermostat housing, TB, and valve covers are done.

Halloween last year: The better half and I: And a little bmx action:

I got my longtubes back from Jet Hot today. 2000* Black.

Thanks for the heads up! That's pretty sweet!

Ok now there is a link and an image. thanks

Now there is no image? My preview had an image and a link.

Just remembered this lowered Montana. You might want to contact him and figure out what spring/struts he used. http://www.gtan.ca/showthread.php?t=5647