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I picked up some stuff from the powder coater today after work. Power steering subframe line in purple.. I probably shouldn't have done this since it's not going to cool as well but I couldn't not.. I'll add a mini cooler later. Then STB in purple and the heater box is ceramic coated to make up for the disintegrated firewall insulation. Below are a modified tail shaft to block bracket, and a front support bracket for my headers (wrinkle to match jet-hot 2000), and modified alt bracket for my FPR/fuel setup (satin). Pics of before and where they go: Hopefully I'll pick up the anodized fuel stuff this weekend.

Lolll. Thanks everyone!

Haha. I would probably be working on a lot more if I didn't have to do that whole sleep or work thing. lol.

Today I: Cut out the upper wheel well pinched seam, welded it shut, and underbodied it. Modified the ABS unit front mounts to have it sit a little higher, bolted them in, made the third mount and used one of those sandwiching threaded metal clips in an OEM hole which made things clean and easy. I'm pretty happy with how the mounting turned out. Everything bolts up, it's solid, there's plenty of room for routing the lines, and it even still uses the OEM rubber bushings. I welded plates and filled in all the unneeded holes in the front of the engine bay on the driver's side. I got about half way through grinding it all down before I had to call it quits. I still have to do some welding on the upper rad support and strut tower, then comes the filler.. my favorite part.

Nice. Good call on not going mega meaty width on the tires. I think a skinnier tire will help with the fitment. I think the 16x8s were 245/50-16 stock? 225 or 215/55-16s would be the same diameter and would look decent.

Remember that the fitment will definitely change when you get lower due to control arm swing. And if I'm looking at the pics right there's no weight on the wheel and the control arm is at the fully unloaded position. The only other non B4U pre-97 w-body I've seen these wheels on was a 91 Cutlass Supreme sedan with a TGP/282 transplant. The fronts could have used a fender pull or a degree of negative camber but the rears were spot on. Have you decided on a tire size? (sorry if I missed it)

Yeah shit way to start the day. At least I slowed down as much as I did before hitting him and now the car doesn't look like I just left the scene of an accident.. I'm more than likely fighting the ticket. I don't have anything to loose. It just sucks to bring this car from ashy to kinda classy then revert.

Yeah it blows.. So, the bumper was messed up enough to where I wouldn't just repaint it, the hood wouldn't open, the d/s headlight backing (not lense) was cracked, and the rad suppport next to the condenser was pushed in. I spent about a half hour on it when I got home and it looks a little better. I figured out how to get the hood open by holding the interior pull handle in the open position, pulled the rad support with a slide hammer, bent the hood back by hand, glued the crack in the headlight to keep water out and that's pretty much it. After a little work: So now I can drive it without worring about being pulled over at night etc. I can't say I'll leave it like this but not much more is going to happen till the Bonnie is back on the road.

Thanks to some mtherfucking FOB that didn't know where he was going.. I now have a new front end mod. The front bumper is scuffed up, hood is dented up, drivers side of the grill pushed in and drivers headlight pushed in. Story: I95 S, 3 lanes, raining Splits to 2 lanes and a cattle shoot for the next exit, my exit There's a long marked off expanding V before the barriers begin to seperate the 2 lanes and 1 cattle shoot lane. Similar to an off ramp. Nissan Quest in middle lane slows down and stops to the right in that V before the barriers, no turn signal. He comes to a complete stop I'm in the right lane going into the cattle shoot. Seeing this idiot, I slow down to about 20, I see him start to pull out with no signal, I slam on my brakes with my hand on the horn He comes to a complete stop infront of me ON FUKING I95 I hit him So, I end up getting charged with with a careless driving + 3 points, because I wan't prepared to stop on a dime on a 55mph zone. I was inches away from throwing this guy into oncoming traffic. Speaking to me in broken english telling me I was speeding, I was so fuking close. Thank God he didn't try to get agressive with me and I kept decent composure. I would have 100% wrecked him. Pics later and I wish this was an April fools joke.

WOOO! Thanks everyone!!

When I first saw this, I shat bricks.

WAY more badass than you would expect at first glance. Lots of cool sht going on here. Nice work. I bet that Quad 4 felt like a totally different animal with that 5spd. Especially with that FDR.

The monster truck ball joints came in.. From left to right. Aftermarket replacement front 92-99, Aftermarket replacement 1960-66 Chrysler, Howe Extended stud ball joint with threaded sleeve, 10* reamer for the knuckle, Howe ball joint disassembled. The dust boots are across the top in the same order. I should have the adapter/carrier for the threaded ball joint sleeve if not next week, the following. I got a tank for welding yesterday.. So I'm good there. And I ordered a Zoop Seal kit to seal all of my polished aluminum stuff.. I reallllly hope it works because clear powder coating didn't. When I first read about it a few years ago it didn't have many good reviews, but now it does and also suggests that those bad reviews are from people who didn't read the instructions.. We'll see. Rain or shine, progress is happening this weekend.

Sorry gonna have to mini rant since I'm from Philly. I never really traveled much outside of Philly until starting a few years ago and I was really confused when I saw peppers in cheese steaks elsewhere.. EVERYwhere but Philly has them. lol. That and nobody uses wiz? Come on..

That pretty much sums it up. N/a builds have always been more interesting to me.

That answer is in here somewhere. Go fast isn't really the goal.

All the metal was sanded before the kitty hair and filler were added. So, any surface rust was eliminated before hand. No water or air is really going to reach the metal before (real) priming and paint so I'm sure it'll be fine. Everything on the other side was sprayed with underbody, so that will be good too. I just bought everything for my custom front ball joints so I have it when the waterjetted adapters come in. (Howe extended stud Chrysler screw in style ball joints, dust boots, threaded sleeves, 10* reamer) I'll figure out a way to get that CO2/Argon tank filled this week so I can really start banging out the driver's side. I can't wait till this stage is finished.. bodywork is for the birds..

It might not look like much but I put in about another 8 hours of sanding. My fingers are raw.. But, all the bodywork is finished on the passenger side. There's just some grinding left in the headlight hole. I started to mount the ABS unit but I ran out of gas.. CO2/Argon. It sucks. Where I go to fill the tank is only open 8-5 M-F and I work on the complete opposite side of the city. Old: Worked: I'm using the sections of the stock ABS mount with rubber bushings then then bolting/welding extensions to support it. The bumper and filter both fit good and there is enough room to route all the lines.

VERY Nice choice. (see sig) I bought a gold set for $200 shipped, repolished the lips and had them powdercoated black. The ET is 22ish correct? Edit just saw the 25. Nice.

Thanks for all the positive comments! It's definitely a plus when you're busting yourass on something and other people can appreciate it. I'm on travel for work all week but I got a little further with that custom ball joint business I had planned. I found out that the design I had proposed would end up costing hundreds and two of the places that had actually gotten back to me were not interested in making it either way. So.. I thought about it, looked at the angles I'm working with, and realized my original part was a little overkill. I only really need a 2D part due to how close my control arms are to neutral anyway. This simplified the part drastically.. So much so that I'm only going to end up paying $35 to have the two carriers water jetted. I'll have to modify the end of stock control arms to clear the new balljoint, but I'm not scared. Recap: I drafted a carrier/adapter in CAD so that I can use a taller aftermarket chrysler front ball joint. Why? -> My suspension geometry is crap. A taller ball joint would push the outer end of the control arm back down closer to it's original position, improving the front roll center.

Thanks! So, I spent another $100 on the i30.. There were 4 major things wrong with the interior when I got it. The seats were trashed, the steering wheel is completely worn through the leather 2/3rds of the way around, there was a hole in the floor and carpet from a shitty muffler shop, and a small rip in the dash above the glove box. I replaced the seats for relatively cheap already last month. While I was in NY this past weekend, I picked up a mint tan steering wheel and carpet for 100. I'll probably do the steering wheel sometime soon but the carpet will have to come after the Bonnie is moving under it's own power. I'm going to borrow a lift to weld a patch in the floor and I want to cut out and fix the rusted/cracked portion of the bottom rad support while I'm doing that. So for $650 I'll have done the following: JY OEM starter Homemade IACV BBS centercap New Cefiro headlights JY bumper/support JY fender Paint on the fender/bumper All 4 fogs + replaced fried wiring Mint tan leather heated seats + center console Mint tan steering wheel Tan carpet Fix hole in rear floor Fix rusted/cracked lower rad support So far I've done pretty good with this: I bought it for $1700, put $650 in, and IMO I could definitely get $3k or more.

^^ Lol. Think of it this way. I've owned a 95 Bonnie for 8 out of the last 9 years. So, this stuff has been in the making for a min.

Yeah I guess I never mentioned what I'm doing to the engine in here huh? Low mile complete L26 ARP head studs 0.045” MLS head gaskets 7” pushrods ATI Harmonic Balancer Electric waterpump Home made 33" long long tubes with true merge collectors and upswet primaries to match exhaust port angle Heavily ported L67 TB (69mm) S1 L67 Injectors HV3 (shorter intake runners) Vac pump setup.. I had this on the car before and I need to get a new pump.. might come later Some oiling mods to the front and rear covers and oil cooler. Abbott n/a Racing Cam -210/220 @ .050 -.320" lobe lift on the intake, .512 with a 1.6 rocker ratio -.320 lobe lift on the exhaust, .512 with a 1.6 rocker ratio -112 lobe separation Abbott Stage 3 Heads -ARH Competition valve job -SI Stainless valves, 1.840" intake, 1.550" exhaust -Fully ported combustion chambers, intake, and exhaust ports -Decks are milled and combustion chambers are C.C.ed to spec size -All ports are flowed and tuned on the flowbench to ensure they meet spec flow rates -Guides cut down for high lift cams -New valve seals -Check for cracks -Bronze valve guides -Asked to mill 0.050” (which combined with the smaller HG's will yield over 10.5 static CR) -Ti retainers With 90# springs -I also asked for data when they flow the heads and when they C.C. the chambers. With the chamber volume I'll know what my static compression ratio will be. I chose these heads for a few reasons.. 1. The highest n/a whp record (270 whp) was achieved with these 2. The intake to exhaust flow ratio is near perfect 80-85% 3. They come with flow data and chamber volume 4. 30 years of head porting experience 5. Good reputation (more so in the 3.8 F-body crowd) 6. I've been kicking around trying to decide if I should get these for 4 years. Once I got my 09 tax return, I knew. Flow comparison.. For a general idea not all are from the same bench. I have pretty much all the parts, I just need to build the engine.. which won't take long. Overall goals are to get to 240+ whp and as close to 13s as possible. I also rebuilt my 4t60-e trans with: -3.43 FDR (3.06 stock) -65 pump (11 vanes instead of 9 which will help with the reving) -Alto 2nd clutches -Transgo shift kit (minus the TC lock up mods) -Shimmed input and 3rd clutch packs for faster engagement -All new solenoids, plastic thrust washers, hard parts where needed -Stock TC with slightly higher stall And I do all my own tuning Via TunerCATs RT and EFI Live. The point of this is to push this dated engine about as far as I can n/a while keeping it reliable and streetable. This isn't for everyone but it's 100% what I want to do.

I got my cleaned/tested injectors back and I'm a little suprised.. They ended up being 37.7 lb/hr @ 3 Bar after cleaning. Most were 36.5 before with the exception of one being 35.4. These are Series 1 L67 injectors p/n 280150934 rated at 28 lb/hr at 3 bar.

Sweet.