Last Indian

Not being familiar with the car, I’ll do my best to answer. I presume it's a double acting clamp with the screw in the middle, this clamps both lines one on each side of the screw? A 10mm head does not mean a 10mm threaded screw. They will use a larger or smaller head screw according to the need and application. Did you need more than that?

Great to hear! My first choice was fuel as you saw, but I’m not familiar with the Edelbrock carb. It's also been a number of years now since my carb days, but I remember how much a carb gasket can effect a 4 barrel & manifold performance.

Also the clicking you spoke of would be the solenoid, due to any of the following. Bad connection/corrosion in negative or positive circuits, including the internals of the solenoid or just a bad solenoid.

Well if it happens immediately, as in turn off the engine and 1 minute later it is hard to start? If this is the case you need to run a compression test both hot and cold. Your description is typical for worn engines. 

Welcome! What kind of carb? Rochester? Both holleys  & Rochesters as they age have a tendency for the jets to leak when the engine is hot, due to expansion. Than there are the other usual suspects, timing, plugs or wires, etc. 
How long after shut down does it take to occur, does it only happen when hot?

Justa, question? Could you please take a couple of pictures of the oil fill cap/breather & the valve cover with that piece out so I can see how it is fitted together, I assume just a push in piece, but I can’t tell for sure. Also could you tell me the diameter of the stem part of the oil fill cap, I need that for fitment purposes, that is if you want me to make you a matched set of breathers? If not that cool too! 

Frosty, good job! Kill all the electrical engineers! Four generations later and we still have pretty much the same functions with 20 times the cost, 50 times the diagnostics work and cars still weigh the same despite all the talk of reducing weight through electrical wire and component mass!

Wow! That’s a lot of work to throw in the towel! You do have enough cooling area, you just have close to 50% blocked! No matter what you do with fans, thermostats, lines or the like you’re trying to exchange heat in a radiator that’s up against a wall. That aluminum plate is not a shroud it's blockage and creates turbulence in the air flow that is trying to move through the two openings that are there. Take off the aluminum plate! Than run the car on the road or at least run a large fan in front of the car, leave the electric fans on the front in place, than see what you get.

Dr. Jones, sorry for your dilemma and sorry if I miss step here, but I didn’t have time to read the whole post. So if I suggest or repeat what has been said already my apologies.
A couple things strike me though! Electric fans really don’t work that well for big motors or big HP! The pitch on the fans is not that good, small blades, no length to the foil, physics law! So a four row radiator is actually a lot of resistance, so the air tends to spill off and not go through even when it seems to. I’m not saying you can’t do it, but it’s difficult. Also fans pushing and pulling not a good idea, causes way to much turbulence. If you were going to try to run electric fans, the ones you have in front (black) should be the only ones. They have a bigger pitch to them, but I would run them on the pull side. Then still follow the advice I give below about the short nose pump and making or buying a shroud. So the shroud, I apologize up front for saying this, is bad! The air moving through a radiator is like a carb, the straighter the more efficient it is.
In my opinion, which is based on the work I’ve done for years in racing and specifically with my Z/28, which are notorious for this problem. Likewise the Z ran a big oversized 4 row radiator and overheated! Why? Because I put electric fans on, 1983 or somewhere in that time frame. It was new and I thought clean and cool. Took off the shroud and whalah overheating. So my 2 cents worth, get rid of the electric fans, get rid of the current shroud covering the radiator, buy a short nose water pump, put the stock size pulley back on the pump, I like the one you have it just needs to be the stock size, buy a good clutch fan and buy or build a shroud that basically cones from the radiator to just about an 1” past the tips of the fan blades. See example of the Z.

Justa, thanks about the air cleaner, the actual surface area was 1 ½ times larger than the stock piece as it was open all the way around and on top too.
Attached in a link to summit’s page for ¾ stem diameter breathers if you wanted to consider that route. 
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/valve-cover-breathers?N=4294916373

That said the offer still stands, I’d be happy to cobble up an oil cap breather & a breather for the other side to match. I usually do polished aluminum. It wouldn't be till winter when things slow down a bit so you would still need something in the interim.

Justa6, just to clarify, is the hole in the valve cover 1” or would the I.D. of the grommet for a breather be 1”? Because if you would like to use a breather on that side Summit Racing has quite a few different style breathers in various stem sizes, 1.25, 1, .750 etc. or if you like I could make you one, depending on what you wanted. Just food for thought!

Did you by any chance try NAPA?

Steve, a couple things if I may? I’m not clear how you have the motor setup, but in general pcv systems like to breathe through both heads, I.E. valve covers. Such as pcv valve in one cover, air cleaner hose setup in the other or preferably air cleaner hose and breather in the other. In the older engines were the pcv was in the intake manifold both covers would have breathers. 

The one inch hole usually was for a pcv valve or the air cleaner hose, I have some if you need one I could get it to you if you like? 

In the attached picture of my 302 engine the left side has a front breather back is an oil cap. Right side is front and rear are both breathes, no pcv at all. I did away with it. Pcv was kind of worthless in the Z sine it only pulled 4 inches of vacuum in an idle. This setup really breathed very well, but I would have to clean them every 5 to 6 hundred miles. 

If you want one of the grommets let me know which one, they all fit a 1 inch hole. If you don’t want to run a breather in it I’ll send a nice looking SS plug to fill it! 

Really nice car Frosty, love the interior color combo! Sorry about the thread issue, you said the pitch was different, makes me think they use British pipe instead. British pipe is one thread different, 19 tpi instead of 18 tip. If it was meteric the diameter wouldn't be close. Either way too bad! 

Well, if I follow you correctly it's the guts and probably could be fixed so I would at least keep it as a possible repair for a backup. Does the speedometer work but not the odometer or neither? 

If it's neither the worm gear that runs off the cable drive, behind the mag drive, is bad and preventing the mag drive from moving. If it's the odometer worm gear or the spur gear so just the odometer doesn't work than it's in that area. 

See attach pics, the one that's a cutaway is actually from a Porsche, but you get the idea.

Frosty, I think those prices are fair. It's hard to put a price on parts that are basically obsolete when you really need them.

One thing that I didn't see Scarlit, is what exactly is the speedometer doing or not doing! Are you 100% sure it's the speedometer? Not a cable or tranny speedometer gear? Just a question, but I didn't see any description of the speedometer issue, so I think it needs asked before you buy something that doesn't fix the problem.

P245/45r18 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3. Phenomenal cornering/handling tire.

59 minutes ago, Frosty said:

No worries Last Indian. That's not a problem. I think I have an old GM parts cross reference book from '73 buried somewhere. That will be my starting point. However, I have to work a special car cruise tonight, so I won't have time today. It's Thin Blue Line / Public Safety Appreciation night. Time to honor the police, fire, emergency/EMT, and 1st responders in our area

Sounds like a noble, noteworthy cause. Enjoy!

Frosty sorry, that’s not me, pulled it of the third gen Camaro site and then labeled it. I never took pictures of my work in those days of racing and building and I rarely let my picture be snapped. The one in ground pounder thread in my 69 is one of the few. And all the stock I once had I disposed of when I ended that era of my life.

The pot metal part that is in hand is the guts. The plastic housing is the part that’s relative to make & model. It carries the odometer numbers cluster, which again when you dismantle that plastic assembly those pieces are interchangeable to other makes and models, or at least they were as I recall. I only ask because in my recollection, most of the failures were the mag drive tiny brass bearing, similar to a clock type mechanism.

Frosty & Justa6, question, it's been quite a few years since I rebuilt a old style magnet drive speedos, but back I the day when I did I seem to recall all GM speedo guts, behind the face plate were the same no matter the year, make, etc. the attaching screw locations in the faceplates simply oriented it in the proper position on the speedo guts. That said those were all still close in relationships. I.E. Camaro, Firebird, Nova, Venture, Apollo, and so on, did that not hold true across the rest of the lines?

Kay, sorry for your dilemma! Unfortunately as far as getting the part from a dealership is concerned there aren’t any. A good friend is the parts manager for the largest GM dealership in the Tri-state area, I had him check and no dealer is showing stock.

First go to a NAPA store and see if they can cross reference the part to a Balkamp or Ecklin part.

That said I’m attaching a PDF and a print of the junction block this shows a wiring diagram for jumpering around the sensor. Depending on what you want to do, you could setup a momentary relay as a permanent fix if you plan to keep the car. 

Hope this can help.

2011-10-04_031628_7.pdf

Just wondering who uses what oil type, full synthetic, synthetic blend or conventional and why? We use to ask folks this back in the day before I retired. So I’m curious as to the Pontiac crowd since there is a good blend of engine types all the way up to VVT’s.

Two lane, really really cool! You should tell these guys about the physical stamina it takes to climb straight up that way and high! For about 10 years one of my project was with wind turbines and some were built very similar to a column type cell tower like you’re showing. Although most of those are wrapped with a outer housing, which is a little less interesting as you climb since three quarters of the climb is in the pitch dark. Sorry to say I loved it! But I do have some Sioux blood, so maybe that’s it. 

Dwight, my two cents for what it's worth. I’m one of those dinosaurs and what you say you are looking for is generally how I build my cars. I don’t like lowered cars, first it negatively effect handle with respect to being able to align the suspension correctly and there are other ways to lower CG & RC. 
So one thing most people overlook are the body mounts. These have a huge impact on both ride control and handling. I’m not sure what’s out on the market, but you’ll want to replace them with the stiffest material you can that still has some give. If you can’t find something let me now & I’ll give you some ideas. Also if you’er going to replace the bushings look for  polyurethane replacements which will be a big improvement and replace everything front & rear that you can! There are probably even upgraded pieces that will be stiffer.
Monroe is a decent shock, but KYB makes some nice gas adjustable shocks, but I would still consider air shocks for the rear as Frosty suggested, no matter what you do or don’t carry, just adjust the air accordingly.
Last do an upgrade to the sway bar links, this will really tie the car to the ground without giving a stiff ride.