Last Indian

It would appear White Buffalo Woman smiled on Naples! Do you smoke a pipe? A little Indian humor to defray the nerves. Seriously glade things weren't worse and your all well!

There are a few other things that can be done to revive the induction path to the combustion chambers, but I not sure you guy want that much of a headache?!

I would suggest any new GDI or port injection cars you get you use the pea cleaner on a regular basis from the beginning.

5 hours ago, Frosty said:

I understand using the Rotella in the Indian - makes perfect sense - no real emissions equipment or sensors to worry about - save the PCV valve. No Big Deal.

I had not heard about Gumout Regain. I will have to look into it. 

However, I did recently try two bottles of 104+ Fuel Injector Pro (its new this summer) from Gold Eagle (makers of Sta-Bil) - available thru Amazon - not in stores that I've seen yet. My Denali has 171,000 miles on it, so I am pretty sure it has its share of carbon build up. The Fuel Injector Pro seemed to bring back some seat of the pants torque. I gained about 1 mph (highway) after using it. So I think it blew away some of the carbon. I used one bottle each in two consecutive fill ups with 87 octane gas - no premium.

Also back when I worked for GM - in the early-to-mid 80s the Corvettes, Camaros, and Firebirds - with the Tuned Port motors were having catalytic converter warranty issues. The problem was the Bosch fuel injectors would clog open too easily from dirty/poor quality gasoline. This would dump unburned fuel onto the cat and melt them. While GM could never recommend which gas producer consumers should buy from, Mobil premium was the best because it had (at the time) two separate detergents in the gas, everyone else had one. BTW, the worst gas at the time was Chevron, somewhere in the southwest. To this day, I prefer to buy Mobil/BP fuel for Lucy and all my other cars if I need/want to buy premium.

Most newer cars today have to run reduced zinc fuels and oils to maintain the emission systems warranties that the federal government mandated must be 100,000 miles now. So it will be tougher and tougher to find higher levels of zinc oil for our older cars and we will have to buy specialty oils from the likes of Royal Purple, Brad Penn, or Amsoil, or commit to adding an ZDDP additive every oil change.

The 104+ fuel injector pro is a pea chemistry, Phenethylamine, but they also claim some other proprietary chemistry. That may be, but it’s the pea that’s affecting the overall engine health! The last seven years at LZ, my company, I worked on a project for delivering pea as an aftermarket product as well as a dealer delivered option cleanup. Just before I left I designed two systems to do this. Fuel deposits have always been a problem, but they got much worse with fuel injection which goes all the way back to tune port as you pointed out with the fuel injector issue. The problem is simple, there isn’t any fuel that washes over the parts, not even the fuel injectors, in the air induction path. In port injection at least the injectors sat behind the valve giving some cleaning to the valve, but not the throttle body/plate or plenum. In GDI there is none. Yet the real issue is engine shut down. In this condition there are always intake valves open in various degrees. The unburnt fuel vaporizes and rolls back up in and around the valves, plenum, throttle body/plate causing deposits to form. PEA coats these parts when the fuel vaporizes, but pea doesn’t coke like the fuel does. It gets absorbed into the coked deposits and dissolves them.
So the 104+ is just as good as the regain, pea is pea. The regain might be a little cheaper, but so what, if it work who care, heck I think I’ll try some in the Indian! 

May the White Buffalo Woman be with you and yours! Seriously nothing is worth more than your continued life! I echo Frosty!

Dido to you Ringo! Everyone else as well!

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6 hours ago, Frosty said:

 

To help manage the higher cost of synthetic oil changes on the Envoy at least, I try to extend the oil change period from 3,000 miles to 4,500-6,000. I still change the tranny and diff oil per the OEM schedule - which is usually around 50k miles.

The main advantage of the Shell Rotella is the amount of zinc in the oil right? Rotella is considered to be a modern diesel engine oil rather than a gas engine oil, and therefore these current (diesel) engines need the added zinc (ZDDP) to prevent metal-to-metal contact. Whereas today's modern cars have less zinc/ZDDP in both the oil and fuel to prevent emission systems deterioration and clogging.

 

 

Frosty I’m sure you watch your oil close and with a synthetic I don’t think 4500 is unreasonable. I have pushed my own Lacrosse’s that far, though for me 6000 is to far, but I am anal, worked 39 years for a chemical additive company that supply’s a large portion of factory fills, ran tons of testing to look at all the perimeters that condemn oil for engines/trans/axles and hydraulics. Oh and I, shhhhh don’t spread it around, most of, ok all my oil has been free! So I think your good! 
You are correct about the zinc in the Rotella and why I use it, but only in the Indian. Yes it can cause degradation of the cat and oxygen sensors, but I except that as a necessary evil to protect the engine from wear do to the mods to the motor.
A couple side notes. My Lacrosse’s as your Denali are VVT engines they need the 5W30 for the VVT to function correctly. Also if you don’t already use it you might want to consider adding a PEA fuel additive, like Gumout Regain, to your fuel once every three tank fill ups. And if you haven’t been using it and have over 15000 mi. Valve deposits have already started so you might use it every tank fill up for a couple months.

I was wondering, as I said, back when I worked we, but really I, would ask to see what and why. Both synthetic and conventional oil have there pros and cons. So to me it’s about using them to your advantage. Basically the only advantage to a synthetic is it’s shear stability to keep viscosity constant. Which is pretty much Frosty’s use by his description. That said the downside for synthetic use, is most folks extend the drains out because it cost more money. Most manufacturers promote it as a longer drain interval oil as well. Yet the reality is that all the things that condemn conventional oil, with the exception of viscosity, still condemns synthetic in the same time interval. TAN/TBN crossover (acid in the oil from combustion), soot, fuel dilution, ingested dirt contamination (air filter breakthrough), water (condensation), well you get the idea. So if you keep the oil change intervals close to that of conventional, and I do, than your ok.
Conventional’s we all know, their plus’s and minus’s and since the industry separated pass car from trucks we know how much less durable regular pass car conventional oil is. To offset this in cars that I use conventional oil in, like the Indian, I use an HDD oil like Shell Rotella, which is basically buying an old pass car oil, but with all the upgrades of today’s industry standards.

Food for thought!

Thanks for sharing the pics! I hope you got a warranty on that wheel😳! You never know about those fly by night companies, especially somebody called KiD/Z!!

14 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Using the other end as a spacer worked perfect.  Justa drilled N tapped the end.  Would be so cool to meet up sometime.  Will install when I pull er apart to replace the shoulder bolts.

Great job! Justa right down to the last detail!! Sweet!

it would be really 😎!

Justa looks like it goes good with the interior, hope you enjoy it!😁 Someday maybe I'll see it in person! 

To me, it’s an abortion. Cadillac front end, Buick LaCrosse upper body line from the doors back, Vette mirrors. The lower section between the wheels looks like the new Camaro and the grille might resemble the old goat grille, but it sure doesn’t fit that cars styling!😬 Really bad!! Dare I say the G8 looked better!

I understand about the wires being bundled, but if the trunk did operate off a pin switch then locating where it is or was should be quite easy. That pin switch had to be in a location that sees a fixed point, I.E. stationary and a moving surface, I.E. deck lid, latch, hinge etc.

I believe the light operates off a pin switch. Find the supply wires coming from the light and follow them.

It's been a long time, but I believe it is a harder plastic. It has three tabs that inset into three slots. See if the lens moves in the fixture, back and forth, jiggle, whatever. If so take a flash light, see if you can find one of the tabs. If so, take your index and middle fingers, one on each side of the tab and squeeze inward and pull in a downward motion. That will release that tab, the rest should be easy. If this is not the case try turning the lens counter clockwise.

If you want to be absolutely sure, pull the left side valve cover (drivers side). Rotate the engine around till #1 intake valve compresses and comes back up. Watch the timing mark as that occurs. Stop when the timing mark reaches timing tab area, anywhere, your ready to fire #1. Point the rotor at #1. Make sure it's at #1 otherwise you could be a tooth off.

18436572, should be on the intake!

Well see if it will fire again with ether, if so it most likely isn't spark, but I would still look at the mag pickup. it's in the area where the water pump blew. the other possible issue is the overheating caused damage to a head or head gasket, so you may need to check compression. also possible it caused damage to the blower or the cooling plate between the throttle body and the plenum. check the oil to see if the is any evidence of  antifreeze in the oil. take a white paper towel and wipe the dip stick on it. look for an iridescent hue on the oil and a leach pattern that's different than the oil on the paper towel.

I assume it’s the 05 GP? This was a recall issue did the car go in for the recall? If so this on them. That said, you’ll need to go back to square one, the fire could have done damage you don’t see. Spark, fuel, air! Is there a spark at every wire? Is the mag pickup at the crank working? Is the computer plug at the coil pack damaged. Do you have fuel at every injector? Are any of the plastic (3) fuel lines damaged/burnt? The 3 lines are supply, fuel return and vapor return. Try some ether at the throttle body. Check the air intake sensor in the boot between the air box and the throttle body.

Do all the Gage's work? If it's not a fuse or relay it is likely a ground or corrosion. Check the plug in the back of the gage cluster for bad wires or connections. Also check at the fuse block as well. Still doubt that all light bulbs are bad.

Your explanation is a little ambiguous! Can you show a picture? I'm only guessing, but possibly the gage cluster is the printed type with wireless sockets you remove from the back, than remove the bayonet type bulb and put in a new one. That said, all of the dash lights out at once would indicate to me a fuse/relay etc., not a bulb.

Well I don't know that car specifically, but it sounds like the rear parking light. Typically in the older cars that was a red lens, single element bulb. the double element you speak of is a parking/brake/turn signal light. Before you go and cut wires make sure the socket is bad. Check and see if there is corrosion in the socket itself. It might just need cleaned up inside. 

Dave's is off Vine street, East of rt. 91 South side of Vine.  He does really good work. I would take it down to him and at least get an estimate. 

I see you're in Cleveland, I would say your best bet is to go to Interiors by Dave on E. 357th in Willoughby. They do really good work and I know they'll be able to match what you have as close as anybody.

Justa, yes, the offer is open, not quite sure what you are looking for or what both cars are but we can figure that out. If you need an email to talk to me through copy and past this link into the send link. 

Attached is a link to Detroit Spring, they should have what you need or can make it!

Good luck! There are others, but I've never had any trouble with them!

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/application/catalina-2-2/