Sounds good. We'll be riding in from Ky sometime in May. I'll let you know what route as time gets closer bro.

7 hours ago, Frosty said:

Is that before -or- after you took the training wheels off Justa? LOL!   

WOW good eye. But it's justa the gas tank!😎

Once again I must thank you all for your help. The instructions I received were perfect. I have posted a picture of why the original switch didn't work and was able to purchase a perfect replacement from AMES (Part # PA449F).

It shouldn't be hard to replace it when I get the new one.

Well done 👍👍

that switch certainly looks sad ! 

Michael 

one thing you may want to consider is upgrading that circuit by installing a good quality relay that will take the current draw and use your new switch to control that relay 

that way you don’t have all that load going through the switch 🍻

as you can see what that current draw has done to the switch over the years 👍

Now is the time to use a simple jumper wire to check the motor.  Make sure your top is loose (disconnect the holddowns and strip a small area next to the switch on all 3 wires).  Red is your hot on one end, touch the black and the green quickly to see if motor works.  You really don't want to move the top too far as it might be hard to get back down N into place.  Not sure if the system is electric or hydraulic.  If motor makes noise but top doesn't move, pull the back seat N check for hydraulic fluid  N level.  Small rubber plug on the motor is your filler plug.

Thanks for the input.

So I bought a new switch from Ames and it failed. So I bought another one and it failed worse. I'm waiting to see if they will honor the return because it said it did not fit my car. Probably my bad. Will use another switch somewhere on the dash as one of you recommended. Thanks

3 hours ago, Michael B said:

So I bought a new switch from Ames and it failed. So I bought another one and it failed worse. I'm waiting to see if they will honor the return because it said it did not fit my car. Probably my bad. Will use another switch somewhere on the dash as one of you recommended. Thanks

hmm, you may need to use a relay and take the current load away from the switch itself 

Why won't a heavy duty SPDT switch work?

I bought one but they lied. They said it was 30 AMP but the stamp on the switch says 10 Amp.

I am going tomorrow to find a heavy duty one.

Think it will work?

I don't know enough about relays to try and hook it up.

I also need to know if I need a reverse polarity switch.

The pump is hydraulic.

I guess this shows how uneducated I am.

1 hour ago, Michael B said:

I also need to know if I need a reverse polarity switch.

The pump is hydraulic.

I guess this shows how uneducated I am.

Mike, 10 amps sound a little light for a oil pump for a rag top !. but that justA tells me that somethings wrong with your hydraulic pump that its drawing too much current.

Del  ( Bonneville convertable64 ) has 2 64 rag tops and i was hoping he would see your posts and get back to you with his thoughts  .... i will pm him                 .

In your case i would take it too your auto sparky and get him to load test the hydraulic motor that drives the rag top.

i dont think its a switch issue.

The power top is driven off the "accessory" circuit and fuse on my '72 Lemans convertible. That is a 30 amp fuse in my car. I'm in agreement with Kiwi that a 10A fuse is probably not enough to handle the current draw of your pump.

Have you tried testing the pump itself? There should be three wires going to the pump in the trunk. Mine are red, green, and black. Black is ground. Red is up and green is down. Putting power to one or the other should make the top move up or down. IF you test the pump, you can insure it is still good or verify it is bad, and the switch maybe good.

The pump works fine. It's the switch that fails. Both of the Ames switches failed right after the second usage.  Total cost $183. I'm waiting to hear back from Ames to see if they will refund my money.  They may not because I had to make some minor alterations to the wiring. The failure was that the toggle no longer would return to neutral and had to be manually shut down. No heat was present that I could feel.

Sorry I didn't explain that before.

I think it is just the cheap Chinese crap.

I'm going to see what's available from my local auto supply stores and just mount a new switch somewhere on or under the dash.

 

3 hours ago, Michael B said:

The pump works fine. It's the switch that fails. Both of the Ames switches failed right after the second usage.  Total cost $183. I'm waiting to hear back from Ames to see if they will refund my money.  They may not because I had to make some minor alterations to the wiring. The failure was that the toggle no longer would return to neutral and had to be manually shut down. No heat was present that I could feel.

Sorry I didn't explain that before.

I think it is just the cheap Chinese crap.

I'm going to see what's available from my local auto supply stores and just mount a new switch somewhere on or under the dash.

 

Ah that DOES sound like a faulty switch !!!, but you should be able to find another switch that will do the same job @30 amps

If you are going to mount a switch under the dash, the '69-72 A-body switch might not be a bad way to go. It was also used in the first gen Firebirds and the 69-70 Bonnevilles, along with it's GM cousins.

Thanks Frosty but I didn't have the right tools to make a rectangular hole.

I went to NAPA and bought a 50A switch and drilled a nice round hole and it works perfectly.

Thank you and all you guys that put in their 2 cents.

On 5/11/2022 at 2:49 AM, Michael B said:

I also need to know if I need a reverse polarity switch.

The pump is hydraulic.

I guess this shows how uneducated I am.

This is the replacement switch https://midwaymusclecar.com/products/power-convertible-top-switch-66-67-pontiac-gto-lemans-tempest

I had to replace mine as well. The only issue is the wire is not long enough so i needed to splice into existing switch wire which is no big deal. There is no fuse for this circuit. Power comes straight from battery. I would use the top sparingly. 

Edited May 12, 20224 yr by Bonneville convertable64

Thanks Del,

If I had this info three weeks ago it would have been great. I just spent almost two hundred dollars on two Chinese made switches that failed and because I had to splice the wires I don't yet know if I will get my money back.

I really appreciate the info and if I get a refund I will buy this. For now a nice chrome switch looks and works fine.

Mike

I have asked Midway  if their switch will hold the 30 Amps I need.

Still waiting for a reply. I have temporarily put in an inline fuse from the battery.

 

Mike 30 amps is a big ask for any switch 

a good quality relay is your insurance 👍👍

and will protect your switch regardless of quality 

I am now using a 50 amp toggle with a 30 amp fuse.

It works and looks fine so I don't think Ill spend the money.

Also Ames is refunding my money for both switches.

Thanks for your input.