64 kiwi boni

Got word that we are going down to "level 3" next Tuesday so i can get back to work!!! 

which means i can work, but not travel out of my region!!😦

 Government is making noises that we could be in "level 3" for 2 weeks and then down to "level 2" and then i can get my arse to Auckland and get my Chassis!!!!

i have completed ALL the jobs the boss had on her list and so i am running out of things to do with what materials i have 😡

Gees thank you Last Indian, i have certainly learnt something today 👍

 As i read  your explanation, i thought how can i monitor the tbn/tan ratio... then you answered it....colour of the oil.

thats very much what i look for, i like my engines to have clean looking oil, if its not i swap it out.

 And with most of my fleet they stay clean thanks to bugger all use !

4 hours ago, Last Indian said:

 

Yes, folks all have their own opinions on what oil to use, what’s best and so on, but at the end of the day most folks don’t really have the knowledge about what makes a good oil or why! That would include your machine shop! As I doubt any of them are chemist or know what the technical numbers mean! So I will try to explain again just from a purely factual point. 

Most of the expense in buying an oil is in the additive package, which for the most part really makes or breaks an oil. Than would come the grade of the crude they use, which has its own impact. Than the blending of the two together can really make or break the final product. Obviously the best oils use top tier crude as well as top tier additives, but different companies tailor their additives packages and this is what sets the best apart. So that might seem simple, but there is one more element, the consumer! He as much as the additive package makes or breaks the final results of the oil! 

An example is if I asked what is the most important element to an engine oil what would most people say? Most of the time, viscosity! That would be wrong! While viscosity is very important it has been documented that an engine can run on 0 viscosity! No I’m not promoting that. I’m just saying it’s not #1. TBN is the number one element in an oil, period! Without the proper TBN your engine would have a very short life. Yet if you run a lower TBN number oil and understand when to change it, that’s acceptable.

So while the PennGrade oil has good specs relatively speaking the ZDDP numbers are quite concerning 1500ppm is to much! Especially when you use it over and over! To much ZDDP cause corrosive wear in all the places you are trying to protect. Anything above 850ppm starts to get iffy. This also why this oil is not approved by the API! 
Where as JustA is using Castrol, this has a lower TBN than the PennGrade but uses sulphated ash as the wear additive, which is actually a better, more controllable additive for this process. It’s also harder to over additize this way and Castrol is using it in the proper dosage. I’m also sure JustA changes his oil at the proper time before TBN vs TAN crossover.

There is a lot more than this to an oil. This just touches on a very small element of an oils makeup and function. Who knew!
 

Last Indian, your going to have to explain what is the TBN number  🙄

As per my hobby car manual, i have made a double plate that fits under and above the floor, min area is 3 1/4 x 2" or 80mm x 50mm and 3mm thick

 each plate has to have a 5mm / 3/16 radius corners and all which contact with the structure of the floor pan must have a 0.1 mm or 1/24th radius.

 Pretty easy with a cut off saw to tickle up 😋

 then  you have a max of 5mm plug weld  hole to hold it in place or, you can use a money rivet x 2 max 1/8 time two too hold them in place.. nothing major but very explicit in what you can and cant do.🙄🙄 

 oh look at the time !!!! its .....

BEER -O - CLOCK  AGAIN

 Gees dont the days fly when we are working on our cars !

So with the weather being sh-t i cant do much on the Bonneville, so i am on to my HQ Holden ute ( Justa6 street  )

i have a set of VF commodore/ R8 pontiac seats to fit and they look way better than the "race seats" 

have had to make mounts to comply with our new zealand LVVTA requirements so it will get through certification to get it back on the road .

 Basically here if we mod anything we have to get it certified to get legal for the street, way easier than Australia, they have it really hard.

so i made all my mount plates and plug welded then to the floor pan...as per Blah blah 🙄 

6 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Looks great , can't see any sand scratches.

Yip justa6, pretty sure you cant see any scratches from 13,553 kms awayHAHA

7 hours ago, Last Indian said:

That is not what we mean in the states as a Hot Rod!

Last Indian.... i have a whole new level of appreciation for what you did with your steering wheel !!!

 i have spent sooo many hours just sanding !! And i am just in primer stage😡

it would have been so much easier to just buy a after market wheel 🙄

Things have slowed down thanks to the weather turning to sh_t and even priming the steering wheel has been a pita !

 i have had to revert to bringing my work into the lounge and getting some warmth 

14 minutes ago, Frosty said:

SO guys what did you do in terms of fuel delivery to support your new EFI?  Obviously EFI requires higher fuel pressure than the stock 6-10 PSI.

So did you have to install an inline high(er) pressure fuel pump and filters and a return line? If so, what did you use? Any in-tank fuel pumps available vs an external pump? 

i used an in- tank kit from tanks inc.

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm

 pump and surge tray fit cleanly in side fuel tank, keeps noise down, pump stays cool and way neater installation, and saves on trunk space.

9 hours ago, Stewy said:

LOL 😄

 

That's actually pretty good! When I detail any of my vehicles (I'm the "car cleaner" in the family), I budget at least a week of down time for the vehicle (detailing typically only in the evenings - can't forget the day job!) while I detail the outside and inside. Even with keeping the cars (in and out) clean year-round, I still do a "full detail" every six months so if the cars were really dirty I have no idea how long it would take me to do a "deep clean".

For Ren (show car), I used to budget 40 hours for an in-and-out full fall detail (and that's even with keeping her METICULOUSLY clean year-round) right before her winter hibernation however that time allotment has been totally blown out of the water to the point where I start her fall detail the second week of October each year and hope I'm done by October 31st. My spring detail, however, typically takes less time as when her cover comes off around the beginning of April I just need to do a "sprucing up" from her winter sleep (don't get me wrong, spring detail still takes a while!).

So question to everyone (@Ringo64?), is there a dedicated detailing section of the site? After making multiple checks, I don't see one (and thought about starting one) - but I've been known from time to time to miss things right in front of my nose -  and I want to make sure I'm not duplicating anything. I've been doing automotive detailing for 20+ years now and it's something I LOVE doing. It's exhausting but I LOVE the shine at the end!

i for one would be keen to hear some detail tricks👍 Stewy

On 4/10/2020 at 10:30 AM, JUSTA6 said:

Here ya go...

https://www.opgi.com/bonneville/1964/fasteners-hardware/exterior-clips-screws/

See now I was beatin to the link.

yip no.... wont work, these clips are angled to the body so a universal clip wont work, i have seen nothing "pontiac" thats any were like the trim clips i have.

the closest is the 64 impala ones. so i think i will just order them and fingers crossed they are right, like Last Indian has said, gm standard belt line hopefully🙄

Bit the bullet and cleaned the wife mini today, little car, piece of cake !!! NOT

i started at 10 am, and its 3.45pm and finished😡 

 i even found the garage door opener she lost 2 years ago, covered in chocolate glued to the blind side of the passenger seat😦

 oh and one little thing that i wont be telling the boss about...... a rat has chewed the sound insulation under the hood !🤨

any way its beer o clock 

stay safe everyone 

8 hours ago, TWO LANE BLACK TOP said:

Guess I must be lucky...Mrs. Two Lane is actually pretty good about keeping the trash and debris shoveled out of her car...Her thing is running on empty all the time..Has me wondering if there is some obscure law somewhere that says it's illegal or immoral for women to put gas in their cars...Everytime That I get in her car it is always 99.99% of the time nearly out of gas and I'm lucky to make to the gas station...Without having to walk...Have actually had it run out in the driveway or just as I pull up to the pump a mile away....More than once...

Thats just what happens to me too!! 

i now have a drum of petrol in the shed just for that reason!! HAHA

Oh, i have been putting off cleaning my wife's Mini, its a mess, and i have been waiting for a rainy day as it will take me 4 hours to completely detox it.

Half of the issue is that its black, and Black shows up every scratch, even with its ceramic coating 

Dont get me wrong, she is a good girl but man can she trash her car.... 🤣

my work van is cleaner than the boss's car😜

First layer on yesterday was Hard this morning but it needs a second layer and i will leave it for a good 24 hours to cure.

5 hours ago, Last Indian said:

That’s going to be a tuff piece to repair! I believe that those were a blend of acrylic & vinyl. The clear is acrylic the black is vinyl. Which is why so many would first crack between the clear & the black. Being to dissimilar materials finding something that will bond to both for the long term and use of the wheel may be an issue. 

I think your bang on Last Indian, i tried a test with acetone and the clear melted easy as, but the black not so.

hope the expoy polymer works if not nothing really losted 

Pulled the broken steering wheel off and you can see where its not broken, it has been cut !!, there is cut marks like a jaws of life have chopped it

So i have straightened it, mig welded it and Last Indian has given me the idea i can fill it and file it. So i have tonight filled it with a 2 pot epoxy polymer and lets see tomorrow what its like and hopefully i can get too and start filing it.

i am guessing that the wheel is covered in an acrylic  plastic ??? its certainly not Bakelite.

 My plan is to sand it flat and paint it Black, but what paint to use on this material... and as always at the moment, do i have anything in the shelf that will do it... i am running out of supplies real quick  and we still have 2 more weeks of complete lock down, prime minister today is talking 23 April moving out of full lock down to a level 3... which means i can get back to work!! 

weee hee !! before my company goes completely bust 😡 

Front grill support panels primed and just like the fender, they will need a bit more attention when i can get my hands in some hi build primer surfacer. 

A Big freaking file! Seriously! & a lot of muscle, sandpaper & patiences!

Your clearly a very patience guy !!!

Pulled the belt line reveal off, after i had removed the interior trim and found 2 nuts and another in the boot👍 thanks guys,, i was thinking they where just clips pushed in.

i was lucky as its just surface rust only, so i have treated it and primed.

But the retaining clips are buggered, and i cant find anyone who is selling them, which brings me to this question. 

Being a 2 door hard top identical to a 64 impala, could the trim be the same... if so i found these guys sell the clips

  https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/product/1964/1964-chevrolet-impala-caprice-bel-air-rear-window-belt-reveal-molding-clip-kit-lower-c9082/81172

12 minutes ago, JUSTA6 said:

oh i am soo impressed last indian!!! i am with Justa 

Tell me about how you shaped the wood on your steering wheel. how did you make it round in both dimensions ?

8 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Found a couple things that may or maynot be a waste of your time.

 

Justa6... i may or may not of just wet my pants watching the video of the black convertible 64 bonny !!! i want one !!! 

On 1/7/2017 at 1:09 PM, Last Indian said:

Well after the wreck the 69 was about 85% or so handmade. The the front subframe was destroyed, but the firewall was untouched. So I found a subframe and took 2x3 channel and built the back half of the frame & welded them together. Similar to the 74 frame you see in the pics, but in the case of the 69 the 3” is vertical not horizontal all the way, this changes the vertical flex, which in cornering helps substantially with down force flex in cornering. The entire floor from firewall cutoff to the rear valance was 20ga. 304 stainless. Original Z/28 3 leaf, leaf springs & Monroe Max Air shocks. The front sported big block springs and sway bar. Because of this work the car dropped 300lbs and weight was redistributed, which in turn lowered the center of gravity 5” & lowered the roll center 13”. It also balanced the car to a 50/50 weight distribution, but best of all was it would pull over 1.3 Gs on a 300 ft skid pad test @ 50 mph. It also reduced Yaw by 1 full second@ 50 mph. Every part and bolt, clip, nut, washer et. That could be made or bought of 304 stainless was. The engine, well what can I say, it was a stock DZ 302, but what else do you need? People will argue about this motor and its power, but the fact is that the 302 was tested by many reputable people, Smokey Yunick as one and none were ever tested under 600 hp. The with one caveat with mine was the 202 valve heads were replaced with 188 fueler heads. Without getting into a long oration, smaller valve heads actually run better for the street and slalom racing with the 302. Most engine pieces were handmade except for the obvious. It might interest you that if you look closely at the side shot of the engine you can see the power steering & water pump pulleys. They are billet pieces I designed and made. Likewise the front engine pic shows a billet ribbed master cylinder cover I designed & made. I once made the mistake of going to a car show in this area and Mr Gasket, which at that time was out of Cleveland’s west side was there stole the designs. Just another reason I don’t do car shows. 
The interior was all custom, see pic. Wheels were American Racing billet bean slots that I machined to look like Hildebrandt wheels & the lugs 304 SS machined to a bastard size for security. Rear fenders were custom flared. In 1974 I converted the Z from the Muncie stick to a special built 350 turbo automatic, as my wife, no matter how I tried, couldn’t handle the 2500 lb. clutch. So with that there was so much power and hookup with the automatic it would wind the rear axle up 40 degrees and really S shape the leaf springs. As a result I built what I called ladde- tracs, as they were a cross between ladder bars and traction bars. Traction bars wouldn’t work as the power was to great and would just S shape the springs wrap the axle anyway, had to stop the axle from over rotating. The rear end cover was a custom made piece, see pic. 

The “74” was my wife so I made it a much more docile machine, detuned, automatic obviously, but it would corner very very well. 

last Indian, i am so impressed with what you built... major  to you