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J J Web's 1967 Lemans

2024 May
of the Month

TWO LANE BLACK TOP

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Posts posted by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

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    Brake pad and rotor replacement

    in Pontiac Suspension, Brakes, Rims & Tires Dicussion/Questions

    Posted

    Will be acquiring the parts through Classic Industries...

    Will be doing all four (4) Wheels...With the Cryogenically treated Slotted Rotors and the Hawk HPS Ferro-Carbon pads...From what info I'm able to gather... Apparently the cryo treated rotors are only available with the slotted rotors....But I could very well be wrong on that...???

    I'm hoping this is going to be a good Upgrade from the nonexistent/Discontinued Original GM 1LE specific braking components...That the car is originally factory equipped with... Which is a Really good package to begin with....So I guess I will find out for sure...When the parts arrive and I install them...

    Am going to push the order button within the hour...16497005546597600857783265443195.thumb.jpg.8eac75d85fd8addb4c78507d44a62dd0.jpg

    Thanks again for everyone's input and comments...

    TLBT

    • Like 3

    Brake pad and rotor replacement

    in Pontiac Suspension, Brakes, Rims & Tires Dicussion/Questions

    Posted · Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

    Thanks for the input guys...Will be going with Sport Rotors Cryogenically treated slotted Brake Rotors...I'm going with the slotted rotors instead of the Cross drilled is because in my personal experience I've found that the drilled rotors have a tendency to crack outward from the holes... Under extreme severe use Braking conditions...(Nascar short track ovals) The car is mainly driven under normal street use conditions....But it has  occasionally been run on the track...and Routinely  speeds over 100 + MPH on my favorite road course (Blue Ridge Parkway)...Will also be going with Hawk HPS Ferro-Carbon pads.. Any final thoughts/comments Would be appreciated Before I push the Order button...Thanks again guys...16496881943786694777304886119710.thumb.jpg.54b5b705ef8b93384940578fdc6d61ea.jpg16496876887308093567024130547893.thumb.jpg.f47df16971da9b1da647b98df11cdd4b.jpg

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    Black Beauty

    in Pontiac Progression Place

    Posted

    Like the TA...Had a very low mileage 86 that looked Identical to yours...Mine had the L69 (305 HO) engine with a 5 speed manual transmission...

    It Was destroyed in a head on collision with a Sunbird back in 2004...Was very lucky everyone was pretty much able to walk away...

    • Like 2

    What did you do to your Car today?

    in Pontiac General Discussion/Questions

    Posted · Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

    Easiest way...To Access the starter wires...Before lifting/Unbolting the engine...Drop the starter from Underneath...Support it so that it is not hanging on the wire harness...The wires will then  be easily accessible...Then use a 5/16..??...Socket or wrench to take the wires loose from the solenoid...Having the starter off the engine can actually be beneficial...Clearance wise when removing the Mill...Anyway..

    Are you removing the the engine and transmission together as one unit..??

    • Like 1
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    1996 Firebird Formula build

    in Pontiac Progression Place

    Posted · Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

    Last Indian..

    That's actually pretty cool especially like the oval track side kickout oil pan...Assuming that is an oval track camshaft also...Solid Roller...Probably Around 260 duration @ .50 with .770 lift...109 degree LSA...

    Frosty...

    Crawled under the car...The gas tank is a flat medium gray primer looking color... Really Close to the flat gunship gray color that I used to paint it with...Tried to get a photo of the tank...But that was pretty much impossible without jacking the car up and putting it up on a couple of jack stands..Trying to get all the under body details/Colors as close as I can...Unfortunately I'm getting old and half blind and not nearly as steady as I once was... That said... I'm still happy with the results...So far...

    Will probably get a good start on the rear suspension here in next little while...

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    1996 Firebird Formula build

    in Pontiac Progression Place

    Posted · Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

    Have been making some Progress...Have detailed and assembled most of the front suspension..Have also put the engine/Transmission assembly in...Also most of the exhaust system...Will be focusing on the rear suspension and the rest of the exhaust over the next day or so...Have tried to capture as much detail as I can...Having hard time getting the lighting right for it to show up as well as it looks in person...Will have to crawl under the car to look at the gas tank...As I don't remember what color it actually is...And I will try to match it as close as possible...More to come in next 24 hrs...

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    • Like 5

    I am in need of a few things

    in Pontiac Interior Discussion/Questions

    Posted · Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

    Judging by all the corrosion that I see in the photos...My guess is that the whole electrical system is full of bad grounds...Would start by cleaning the bolt connection lower left corner of the fuse block...Then maybe go to all the light sockets including the License plate light and make that they all are clean and crap free and that they are grounded properly to the chassis..The light sockets themselves are grounded individually to the body when they were pushed in and twisted into the mounting holes instead of having separate ground wires from the sockets to the body...Had a rusty mid 70s Oldsmobile cutlass that had lots of electrical gremlins (Came from upstate New York) ...99% of which wound up being corroded grounds all thru the car..The reason I single out the License plate light is because the light and fuel gauge/sending unit were on a common ground...

    Basically every ground connection strap/bolt..etc.. inside and out or that you may suspect is a ground that you can find should be cleaned and retightened... 

    • Like 2
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    1996 Firebird Formula build

    in Pontiac Progression Place

    Posted · Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

    Well that didn't go as well as expected....Completely F#÷ked up the paint on the body...Will let it get good and cured for a couple days and then attempt to fix it..

    That's what happens when I get in hurry...should have used a couple of light coats rather than trying cover it all at once...

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    • Like 3
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    1996 Firebird Formula build

    in Pontiac Progression Place

    Posted · Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

    Mrs. Two lane likes the blue also...So blue it is...This was the closest color I could find...Actually matches better than I thought would..Looks almost exact in person..Will be be focusing on getting the body and everything blue painted today...

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    • Like 3
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    Naples Zoo Tiger Attack

    in Off Topic

    Posted

    16 hours ago, KiwiStarChief said:

    And the poor tiger has to die because of his stupidity!

    This may sound harsh...The cops should have just blown the idiots arm off instead of killing the tiger...☹☹

    Stupid Kills but obviously Not nearly enough...

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

    Car running hot

    in Pontiac General Discussion/Questions

    Posted · Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

    Other than the .030 over bore...Is the engine still basically stock...?? 

    Are you running a radical cam profile...??

    Are you still  running the factory Iron cylinder heads...??

    Is the Fan shroud in place/undamaged...??

    This may sound crazy..Are you 100% sure the Temperature gauge is accurate...??

    Something else that may sound crazy...When running an engine without the thermostat to help regulate the flow rate of the water...The water flow speeds up through the engine and it doesn't absorb the heat nearly as efficiently as it should... When it has some kind of a restriction (thermostat) to slow the water flow rate to allow for more efficient heat absorption....Something you might try...Instead of running a thermostat...You can try a water restrictor...Basically what they are is a round disc that looks like a washer that fits in the housing where the thermostat normally goes...But they they have different sized holes from larger to smaller and you can actually speed up or slow down the flow rate of the water thru the engine....Independently of the water pump flow .... Depending on what size you install...They are available as an inexpensive kit with different sizes included...You can get them thru someplace like Summit...

    Might be something to consider....

    • Like 2
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    1964 bonneville rebuild

    in Pontiac Progression Place

    Posted · Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

    The balancer only has one timing mark on it from the factory...Someone else has added the other mark (It was a common practice to use a hacksaw blade to remark it) When the outer ring slipped around the hub...that's why the second mark/ groove looks factory...89000 miles on those old engines is alot...Usually by the time they got to 100,000 miles...plus or minus 10 to 12 thousand miles...Depending on how well they were maintained...They are pretty much due for an overhaul...Unlike modern engines they were actually designed to be rebuilt/overhauled and was considered normal to do so...And alot of dealer service departments actually did overhauls in house...All the major components... starters...alternators/generators...Power brake boosters... Distributors... water pumps..Ect..Were all designed to be serviceable....During that era... They were not designed/made to last 200,000 plus... Miles and then throw them away/Replace like modern day engines/components are...

    • Like 4
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    1964 bonneville rebuild

    in Pontiac Progression Place

    Posted · Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

    Just as a mention...Sometimes on older high mileage engines the outer ring of the balancer can slip around the hub as the rubber wears/deteriorates between the outer ring and the hub...It is actually a very common issue...Rendering the TDC mark (on the outer ring) Completely inaccurate...If that has happened...When you line up the zero Mark on the balancer and the zero mark on the timing tab the engine will not actually be at top dead center...But a few degrees off...That is probably why you have two Mark's on the damper as someone in the past has remarked TDC..to compensate for the outer ring slipping around...Only way to really know 100% for sure...Would be to manually find TDC..(both the intake and exhaust valves fully closed and the piston at its highest point in the #1 cylinder) and look to see which mark if either one lines up to the zero mark on the timing tab...If neither mark lines up after manually setting TDC to the timing tab..You can put you own 0 mark on the damper then use that mark to accurately set the timing... Most engines like around 34 degrees of total timing...

    Might be something to look at/consider....

    • Like 3
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