TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Ray Whites Junkyard 336 994 4029 Germanton NC They have acres and acres of cars from 1930s to present day....

I have an original GM 1963 Pontiac issued shop manual got from my dads tool box 40 yrs ago. Would be happy to maybe to photo copy any info you might need out of it. There is photo of it in one of the galleries. NICE car!!

I would think that the 1LE firebirds from late 80s to the late 90s qualify for future classics mainly due to the fact that they had all had to be special ordered. Most Pontiac dealers didn't even know that option even existed. Only the most savy buyers ordered what is essentially late model COPO car. Unlike new Camaro COPO where they limited it to 50 of them seriously doubt if any were actually  special order just a limited production run. Was basically just a sales pitch. True COPO means they didn't limit the number made if 5 were ordered they made 5 IF 5000 were ordered they would make 5000 of them. That being said what really makes them special the fact they were only available in Formula 1SA trim meaning no creature comforts like AC power windows and locks ETC only exception to that was 1996 and later had AC only because Pontiac made it standard across the board. They all have factory hardcore suspension and brake upgrades with there own specific GM part numbers. Also the gas tanks are different with the fuel pickup location and baffle in the tank so that during high G turns when the gas sloshed around it wouldn't uncover fuel pickup. All of them also had factory oil cooler. Although  have heard of  some that didn't. Mine has aluminum drive shaft from the factory,but have heard of some that didn't  also the later ones after 1996 have double adjustable konis with tool in glovebox to adjust shocks with. Engine power is way underrated too. Probably shouldn't be saying this have had mine up to 168 MPH flat out nothing left. Know that because captured top speed on my garmin. Without all the creature comforts makes them lighter than standard F body with full load of fuel all our vacation stuff and my wife in car tips the scales at just a little over 3100 lbs. It is definitely a Porsche Jag BMW Mustang WRX eater wolf in sheeps clothing! for sure. Reason I think qualifies for future classic is mainly because of low production numbers no more than 20 or less in most years of course rare means unpopular only time will tell.....Next time I have on lift will take some detailed photos of suspension drive shaft gas tank etc. and post them. One other thing the SLP firehawks with 1LE are completely different.

Spoke to my trans guru Today. He agrees with Last indian that is definitely an electronic issue. Without actually looking at the car would be probably next to impossible to trouble shoot....Wish I could be more help. From I have seen looks like last indian is a smart guy and is all over it. He has my compliments.

I completely agree Pump could very well be problem. Mentioned before Have seen new ones that did not flow like they should was mainly due to too much clearance between the impeller and the pump housing itself. will not flow like supposed too if at all. Most of the pumps like from Autozone etc are remanufactured and whoever does them doesn't pay attention to the nuances or details. After all GM hasn't made them in 30 plus years. They pretty much just slap new seals and bearings in them and send them out door quick as they can...

This might sound really dumb. but is your temp guage accurate ? just a thought  you know stupid simple thing LOL

Last indian  may have the answer wont know until tomorrow. Will ask my transmission guru tomorrow also.. Hopefully will be able to get it solved in short order.....

OK completely misunderstood sorry about that. thought you were talking about wheel speed sensors. Feel like a complete dumb*** any way never mind all the things I said about ABS and speed sensors. Except part about Might not be the problem. actually probably some sort of transaxle issue. Do not really know what that may be. Some sort of fluid level issue or with the little check balls in the valve body? something filter related? differential maybe?  Wondering about it myself will ask my transmission guru friend when see him tomorrow.

There is speed sensor on each wheel front and rear. A total of  4 sensors are on the car Hence 4 channel ABS Before you go spending money on parts Do a thorough inspection of speed sensors on each individual wheel front and rear. Look for damaged wires connections corrosion etc. Also if you know someone or have access to a quality scanner plug into diagnostic port .Sometimes the ABS module will hold a hard numerical code that will not show on the ABS or traction control lights. It is completely separate system than the PCM . A lot of cheaper scanners or code readers Like from auto parts stores do not have capability to read ABS codes but some do. Anyway come up with one that does plug it in and see if has stored code in ABS module then go from there. Possible speed sensors could NOT be problem at all. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the feedback. Like I said was not 100% sure. Learn something new everyday.....

Also have looked for anything that might not look right at the rear wheels too? Reason I ask is could possibly be any of the wheels as each wheel rotates when turning left all 4 of the wheels are rotating at a different speed might not problem be with just the front wheel sensors at all very possibly could be in rear. When car is travelling straight all the wheels are turning pretty much the same RPM when turning each individual wheel turns at different RPM and then they are all integrated together VIA abs module.

When you replaced speed sensors did you replace both sides or just drivers side?

Is the ABS light or the traction control light on? If so is it one or both ? Are they on at the same time ? If so is one or the other is on is it always on or just random? Or has either light came on at all?

Sounds like one of the 3  diodes in alternator is bad.With the key off One way to check is to take the ground wire off the battery. Put just a regular test light one end on negative terminal on batt put other end to cable itself. If lights up real bright you definitely have a power draw. If lights up to where it is hard to see really dim.Normal radio clock memory ETC.  If really  bright or see at all unplug the PLASTIC plug from top or depending how it is clocked or from side of the alternator Not the heavy guage red wire If the test light goes out or really dim Shows bad  diode If one of the diodes or the rectifier bridge is bad power feeds back thru system will kill battery every time .IF test light stays ON the problem is elsewhere unfortunately late model alternators are designed not to be rebuilt...also be sure to check all grounds One other thing bad regulator generally causes battery to boil over from over charging.... IF all that check OK look around main fuse block wire harness under the hood and under dash make sure no wires have rubbed together and wore thru insulation and are touching each other also around radio harness especially if have aftermarket radio Also with car running check output of the alternator with multimeter red lead to at heavy guage red wire on back of alternator ground black lead right to the case of alternator should put out somewhere between 13.7 to 14,5 volts any less than that will not keep batt suficitantly charged if OK .There check at batt if a lot of voltage drop  shows major resistance in cables if that is case clean terminals real good.Diodes can be bad and still charge like it is supposed too one other thing make sure glovebox or consol lights are turning off when closed Hope this helps good luck

I am 99% sure that there is no VIN# stamped anywhere on the frame.Only on cowl tag and the engine block and possibly on inside of firewall Behind where heater box mounts . Like I said not 100%sure.

Had not thought about that Frosty. Could very well be.

You are welcome . Have been doing this along time myself . Hate problems like that sad apart about it is from my own experience usually winds up being something simple.  PS Please look at my fresh engine post again put some more on it.

One other thing missing duct work in front of radiator can make third gens run hot by not channeling the air correctly into radiator maybe some of these suggestions will help?

Is this a fresh engine? Are you 100% sure with out doubt that there not crack in cylinder head ? Have built couple of engines thru the years that have had cracked heads that did NOT show up during pressure testing or magna fluxing But opened up slightly when the head is torqued . and engine gets to operating temp.Especially if they have been cut down and the intake and exhaust ports ported and reshaped  for max air flow at high RPM the spring pockets opened up to accept larger diameter springs. and running really radical cam profile....Thin walled castings can crawl around quite a lot. Causes all kinds of issues such as cracks in the bottom of the spring pockets around the edges just enough to let just miniscule couldn't even measure amount of water what little there was  pulled out by evac system and wasn't getting into the oil only symptom was what we thought was condensation in top in valve cover due to hot engine exposed to cold outside temperature while cooling off after racing 100 laps got to wondering about it put valve cover that was cut open on top watched engine run awhile saw water bubbling up around one of valve springs.If had been street engine without super radical cam profile and matching valve springs and not turning 7500 rpms probably would been OK just an example of things you run into when racing thin wall casting iron head Pontiac engine Was ruthlessly fast though sorry about rambling on   sometimes cant help myself pretty sure none this would apply to your problem. SORRY again for rambling about stupid stuff realize this isn't place for it.....

I am in Winston Salem Still think I would look at my fans again just to be sure the air is flowing correctly .Timing would not have that much of an effect on temperature also check carburation make sure not running way lean.Also make sure no vacuum leaks. saw that has new water pump I have seen new water pumps that didn't work like supposed to because of too much clearance between the pump housing itself and the impeller not necessarily divider plate.Excessive clearance will cause the coolant not flow as fast as it should if at all . More common problem than you might think might be worth looking at.

Make sure your electric fans are rotating the right direction you can tell by putting piece of paper on front of radiator should suck up to it. If not rotating right direction just reverse the two wires hope this helps.