TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Have seen a Tojan in photos here on FP and some car magazines...ETC..Who knows...Maybe one day...Will get lucky and actually Run across one Somewhere...Would really like to be able to See/Check one out in Person...

My car has the LT1 engine...No traction control...The hardest part is finessing the clutch and throttle...To get off the line without spinning the wheels...The ls1 cars are definitely quicker...But at higher speeds (over 120 mph) there is not much of a difference between a 1997 and a (LS1) 1999...One of my buddies has a 1999 Trans am with an automatic transmission and traction control...He can beat me from a dead stop everytime...But at speed our cars are pretty evenly matched with no advantage one way or the other...But that could attributed to fact that my car (1le) weighs a couple hundred pounds less than a loaded up WS-6 Trans Am...🏁🏁

The 1957 Bonneville could also be factory equipped with the Rochester fuel injection setup on the 347 CID engine...

Looks to me that the 4th gen Firebird Formula/Trans Ams...WS-6s...Ain't the quickest but they Are the fastest...With 160 + MPH top speeds...??? Although the fastest I've personally ever driven mine is 158 MPH...Have to drive it in 5th gear to attain that speed...When shifting to 6th gear it loses alot of RPMS/ momentum and will not run over 135/137 MPH...

Although they weren't mass produced and Not available to the general public...The Pontiac Short deck 303 CID...4.250 bore...2.840 stroke...(big bore short stroke) Race engine will Reliably turn 8000 plus RPMs...The (NASCAR) 366 CID Pontiac Race engine...4.153 Bore × 3.375 stroke...Theoretically... Should operate close to the same RPM range as the 303 engine...But with more low end torque...

The intake manifold is designed that way... It is not an issue.... What you are seeing is just the unfinished excess flashing left over from the casting process making it look rough and ragged....Along with years of crap built up in that portion of the manifold....

I realize that this answer has nothing to do with painting the engine... Stock type cam or performance...?? When Changing the Camshaft and Lifters....(For what it's worth) I would very highly recommend that you replace the stock Valve Springs/Locks/retainers...With the correct parts that are specifically matched for the new cam...Or at the very least pull the valve covers and pull the engine through by hand and Physically look to make sure the existing valve springs are not coil binding before starting the engine... It is cheap insurance... The valve springs/locks/retainers along with the valve seals CAN be Swapped out without removing the cylinder heads... It can be a pain in the ass to do so...Getting the spring heights (very important) to the correct specs can also can be very hard too do with the cylinder heads still on the engine...But It can be done....If you don't want to remove the cylinder heads... Just my 2 cents... TLBT...

Weather here today Bright sunshine.... 55 degrees with steady 30 MPH wind...So is actually quite chilly/Brisk...The pic of the 455 Pontiac engine is out of order....Belongs to the 1965 Lemans...Snow what's that...?? Haven't had any significant snow here in 3 years...🙂🙂

March cruise in...Midway N.C

Welcome... Are you experiencing a Drivability issue..?? Realistically...If the ECM is throwing the code for the fuel pressure regulator with a code reader...That doesn't necessarily mean that the pressure regulator itself is the issue...It could be somewhere else in the fuel system such as the fuel pressure sensor... Weak/failing fuel pump...A short in the wiring...A bad ground...Loose connection...Or any number/combination of things that can manifest itself by the throwing the fuel pressure system code...So rather than just throwing unnecessary parts/$$$$ at it and hoping you get the right one...You would be better off to have someone with a scanner with the correct software...Plug it into the diagnostic port...Then go from there... TLBT.. Nice car..👍

I have maintained my NASCAR License since 1986.... I didn't renew it this year....So let's just say that I really don't have anything positive to say about the organization....Has become very Anal and woke over the stupidest shit...Even at our level (Modified) over the last few years....

Bonne61... What method did you use to set the valve lash when the engine was reassembled...?? Screw in studs can be a good upgrade...And should work with your existing valve train...Just be sure to use new hardware..lock nuts...Etc. Roller Rockers can be hard to maintain a consistent valve lash adjustment on engines with hydraulic lifters...And they probably won't Fit under the stock valve covers...And I personally (I'm sure others will disagree) don't see any real advantage to using them with your engine combination... Unless you're planning to spin the engine at High RPMS for extended periods of time... Something else I think may be worth mentioning.. Did you reuse the old Damper/balancer...When the engine was redone...?? If so you need to be aware that the outer ring on old high mileage dampers tend to slip around the inner hub and will render the timing mark completely inaccurate... Happy to answer questions as best/accurately as I can... TLBT..

Classic Industries...

I remember those days in the early 80s...Drank 100s of gallons of "Bilge Water" (San miguel) beer along with a local Concoction of spirits called Mojo..While Eating Lumpia....Balut's and all kinds of other local foul shit that I'm not really sure off...That my 3 Filipina girlfriends fed me...While Home ported for Six Monthes at (Olongapo City) Subic Bay in the P.I. Was18 yrs old and had a blast...

WAIR...1340 am was the rockinist station...in this area..."Dadio on the patio" was the coolest DJ on Satuday night...The station moved to FM broadcast...And became WSEZ..(Z-93) North Carolina's Best Rock..Back in the mid to late 1970s...Of course the very first thing I did was go to Radio Shack and get a FM Converter like the one shown in 63grand prix's photo...along with a Kraco 8 track player with "Mind Blower" speakers from Kmart...So I could play my Lynyrd Skynrd and Ted Nugent's Double Live Gonzo tapes... Or listening to Z 93 or sometimes 95 Q out of Charlotte if the atmospheric conditions were right...While driving my first car...1969 Buick Skylark...Damn I'm feeling old today...🤨🤨🤨...

Boxes of beer...?? That's an Interesting concept... I thought only the Best of Best top shelf premium Wine came in a box....

The FM reciever is not factory/dealer installed...it is an Aftermarket unit...The Realistic brand name is From Radio Shack... (Remember them...??)....Probably from the late 1970s early 1980s...

No hate here... 455 CID Buick engine = 4.312 bore...3.90 stroke...With the correct combination of mostly Factory parts can easily make one horsepower per cubic inch...and 500 ft lbs of torque...And have high quality Forged internal parts (crankshaft/rods/pistons) From the Factory...For reasons unbeknownst to me...They are the most overlooked/underrated of all the GM 455 engines... Due to the thin wall casting technology... They also weigh 150 lbs. Less than a 454 Chevrolet engine...

Fitzy.. Have been watching your progress since the beginning...For what it's worth...I think that you have come too far to turn back now...I know that is easy for me say because I'm not the one actually dealing with it on a daily basis ...Believe me I can Identify with your Frustrations...That is just my 2 Cents... With that being said...The most accurate way to check the alternator output... With the engine running...Use your volt meter...( DC voltage setting)Take the positive lead and put it on the stud on the back of the alternator where the Heavy Guage (battery) Wire is...Then take the ground (earth) lead and ground it directly to the outer case of the alternator...Doing it like that isolates the alternator from the rest of the electrical system...And will give you an Accurate/true reading of what voltage the alternator itself is actually putting out... The alternator should be putting out around 13.5 to 14.5 volts...If it is not within that range... that indicates that the voltage regulator needs to be adjusted... TLBT...

Has been a really long time (25 plus years)...Since I've messed with an old school push button door handle/related parts...I'm sure that I have an old GM body manual here buried here somewhere...Will look for it...But the handle and the key lock are separate from the internal mechanism in the door...

I suspect that there may a missing or broken spring/tab inside the door...perhaps if you can look at the mechanism inside the passenger door for reference and see if it is the same...Or if something is missing or bent on the driver's side...

Just adjust the air/fuel mixture first...Then go from there...

Welcome to the site... Is this pic of the end of the door...?? Or the jam on the body side...??? Some more detailed pics of both the end of the door and the jam on the body would be helpful in determining what would need to be done...

Yes...I'm 99% sure that a Harmonic Balancer puller/Installer Can be borrowed/rented from Advance/Autozone...Etc... The balancer puller/installer uses existing threaded bolt holes that are in the center hub of the damper...Thereby concentrating the pulling force on the center of the damper instead of the outer ring...The same puller/installer is also used to push the damper back into place...Just be sure to read instructions...VERY Important...Before doing it... Something else that is worth mentioning...When reinstalling the Balancer/Damper...Alot of people use the crankshaft bolt/washer to push the damper back into place by tightening the bolt...The issue with that is...The excessive torque put on the crank bolt/treads while tightening it will gall/strip the internal threads in the end of the crankshaft and or the crank bolt... Also a lot of people will use a block of wood and a heavy hammer and knock the damper back into place...The issue with doing that is twofold...First is if the balancer is not started exactly straight and flush it will damage the mating surfaces of both the crankshaft and the balancer causing a burr/ridge on one or both...The second issue is the shock generated on the end of the crankshaft when hitting it with a hammer will force the crankshaft to slide back forcefully against the soft Thrust bearing faces...Inadvertently Changing (loosening) the Crankshaft endplay/thrust bearing clearances....Which is a whole other issue... TLBT...

If you're going to remove the timing cover...Do Not use a gear puller to remove the Damper...The gear puller can and will damage the Damper by pulling on the outer ring dislodging it from the center hub of the damper...Use this type of puller instead...Also before removing the damper pull the engine around by hand until the timing mark on the damper lines up with the zero mark on the timing tab on the cover...Once the cover is removed the timing Mark on the cam gear should be at six o'clock...The crankshaft gear timing mark should be at 12 o'clock...If they are not lined up...That indicates that the outer ring on the damper has slipped around the center hub (A Very Common Issue on all GM cars) Rendering the timing mark inaccurate...and cannot be relied upon to accurately set the timing using a timing light... TLBT..