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    • I can sort of make them out but lowering the float level about 1/4 inch lower than the instructions called for seems to have made a tremendous difference. If I need them possibly I can move them to another program that will allow me to manipulate them.
    • Use the green.. I use it in all my cars..Changed the red out years ago. Have rebuilt several late model engines with aluminum blocks and heads and the ones that had red antifreeze in them almost always have corrosion issues with head gaskets the engine block decks..Cooling passages and the cylinder heads, heater cores etc..Have seen blocks and heads corroded to the point where they couldn't be reused. Especially if is not flushed and replaced every couple years. Basically turns the aluminum into a white powder..the red creates an electrolysis similar to a galvanic reaction like when aluminum is bolted or rivited to galvanized steel without some sort of barrier between them.  Over a period of time it just eats the aluminum...Just curious were you able to make out the photos or do I need to try something different??
    • Coulda used some stump water.  Came in 3rd overall in my mens league tournie tues.  Last night we missed making the playoffs by one game. 1st time we will not make the playoffs in my coed league in 19 years.  Wish we had our full team instead of using subs. Wish they made a pill for that, 360.
    • No worries buddy. I can see how you might think that based on how I wrote it.
    • Two Lane, I did take the carb apart and took another look at it. I had forgotten that the idle circuit on that design carburetor two and four barrel was fed through metered tubes in the main jet wells. Short story is that they are much better metered than the earlier end bowl holleys. It is my understanding that Holey has fixed all of its gremlins in the past few years but I digress. When I pulled the top off of the carburetor the fuel level looked high and with a float in it it would be even higher. I lowered the float about a quarter inch from the level shown in the instructions that came with the carb kit and went out to run a few errands. When I started it up I let it warm up and found that I needed to lean out the idle screws, a good sign, and driving it with the top down you get a lot more of the exhaust smell than you get top up and the nasty rich exhaust smell seemed to be gone. Something as simple as the float level? Anything is possible. Re: cal gas. We have the winter and summer blend. More ethanol in the summer blend. We are still on winter blend.  At any rate I will drive it for a while and see what happens. I might drop one jet size and see what happens, It has 64's in it right now. On another subject I just picked up a 4 row aluminum radiator, with A/C on a 110 degree summer day in our lovely L.A. stop and go traffic I do not think that there is such a thing as radiator overkill. Question is which coolant to run. When I had the Ford diesel I switched it from the green to the red coolant on the advice of a friend that used to be a heavy equipment mechanic with Caltrans. Something to do with the egr cooler. When I did the 100,000 mile service on my wife's Lexus I put it in that and what the h... did the Mercedes SL at the same time. The A/C I put in the car is out of a late 90's Crown Victoria which has an aluminum heater core that did have the predisposition for premature failure in the police cruisers. Ford came up with a variable restrictor in the inlet hose that helped until motor transport found a source of copper heater cores. I checked and the copper cores are no longer available, haven't checked with ford on the variable restrictor yet. So with all the aluminum which coolant is the least corrosive.
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