TboneWS6

Hi All & Merry Christmas! Is there anything on the Ident plate on firewall or other source on vehicle to know what rear differential came with it?

As to the “Why”= I was a Pontiac Brat from 13 😂! I was 19 & married in 1969 about a hundred years ago😬😬😬 & had a stock 1957 Chev Nomad @ the time, cool but old, & rough! My parents had a ‘67 Lemans & a ‘63 Star Chief & thought the ‘57 wasn’t reliable enough for a young married couple so gave me the Tempest. ( Very generous of them ) & so it began. I loved the look of the Lemans but w a 326 engine I was never happy w the power. So 1st new car a ‘70 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400 4 speed & it was the 1st really 💕’ed Ride!

Sounds like Old guy44 maybe is talking about Imron. Original Imron was very toxic, I remember having my ‘57 Nomad painted w it in early ‘70’s. Guy used a full suit & fresh air supplied mask w googles! It was a beautiful very tough finish. Also remember very expensive for the time. Probly cost 6 weeks pay😂! I don’t think it was that it was so hard as it was flexible & very tough. That shiny wet look finish almost impossible to mark up from scuffs & probably would withstand an key scratch from an old used key 🙃! Actually still available by name but think due to OSHA & Probly Tree Hugger Stuff the formula has changed so not sure if the same Characteristics! Good stuff though!!!

I 2 was thinking it didn’t seem 2 bad. I’d put it between good & excellent (-10%) for auto puts it about $14500. Figured he’s pretty close. Probly will start @ $9500 & see how he reacts. I wouldn’t do full price for sure as after I do what I want pretty sure I won’t get it back but if I keep it I’m not really worried! I do love the body & paint & the minimal graphics. No Thunder chicken on the hood😎. It’ll be a fun ride with another 200 hp & a stick😁!

It’s obvious when I saw it, it’s been garaged for most of its life if not all. Paint is orig & looks great. Has minor scratches but overall shines well for mileage. Engine runs well as a recent rebuild should. Stock rebuild so still only 150 hp 🤮. Tranny feels ok w/o leaking considering 108k miles. Entire underneath is solid w no rust other than minimal surface rust underneath w chassis sections & suspension all solid. Interior has no rips, tears or wear through but shows wear w thread bare spots & looks like it’s been shampooed but still soiled in driver & passenger seats. Rear looks good. Rugs good structurally but faded. My plans if purchased as it’s way under powered is to go w a more powerful engine w EFI & 5 speed if it fits w/o modification surgery or 4 speed I know will work. Other than replacing upholstery on front seats &. Carpeting it needs nothing. Fortunately I have room to keep orig engine & Tranny for potential stock value if I ever sold. Typically since mid 40’s I buy & keep much to my tolerant wife’s demise 😂! the guts ask is $13,500 but says or best offer.

Hi all, looking @ a very clean 108K mile 80 T/A. All orig. no rust other than minimal surface rust underneath. No blisters or evidence of rust on body anywhere. 301 no turbo 150 HP🥴. Engine is orig & rebuilt a few thousand ago. What’s a fair buy price?

Here’s an interesting article. While it’s doubtful GM would bring Pontiac back it’s the most searched question on the internet of any brand Brand of vehicle by a wide margin 🤔 .https://www.motorbiscuit.com/most-searched-dead-brand-is-pontiac-will-gm-bring-it-back/

Wonder what the #’s comparing how many Chev motors to Pontiac motors r, not sure where to find the info but if’d b interesting. Betting Chev made more than Pontiac, Buick, & Caddy combined 😂

All said r good tips to check! I’ve had the same issue on several mid ‘60’s toys, turned out different things on some & same on others. One way to get to the specific issue ur having is a bit of a pain but will stop a lot of guess work. Have ur electrical tester in the car w u so next time it happens u can check for all the things suggested. Ive had success figuring it out quickly using this JIC method😂. On my old Rides Unless I built w all new wiring & components & & even then unless did a shakedown trip always keep tools & a few common testers / gauges in the car!

Indeed, I remember in my 20’s taking my ‘70 Formula 400 to the track in Fall!, times were a few hundredths better with a couple tenths up on the speed!😁😁😁 ‘Good Ole days’

Wow, what a day in Nj & Pa.! Rolled the Firebird T/A convert out to stretch her legs. no disappointment on this spectacular early Fall day. Took a drive from the Jersey shore to the Poconos with top down. Perfect 70 degree temperature, plenty of sun, a bit of early color change! Drove thru the Deleware Water Gap, super views & River was Gorgeous! Definitely my favorite time of year, now till late Nov. Even if u need to put the heat on with the top down 👍😁!

Frosty, Performance chip I.E., https://www.chipyourcar.com/product/pontiac-performance-chips/

Hi all, I’m considering a E-performance kit to put on my ‘02 WS6 T/A. Any recommendations on the right one & any heads up on install?

As is with the tendency of Big Gov. it’ll turn into a major PIA. It’s the combination of the ‘Slippery Slope) Syndrome & the nature & evolution of Big Gov. Power grabs, getting in everybody’s shorts to control us! Sadly happening in most of the worlds Democratic representative forms of Gov. countries! It will get worse!

https://insider.hagerty.com/trends/most-valuable-pontiac-firebirds-by-generation/ Interesting for all but especially Firebird Peep’s, I enjoyed, hope u do to

Always had a blast @ the track. Early on in the late ‘60’s it was AADCO IN South Jersey near Phila. Later further North @ English Town near Trenton. My ‘70 Ram Air Formula ran pretty well. Consistently in the high 13’s @ 100 to 103 mph. They were ‘Happy Days’

😀My racing days are over, I / we, the guy @ the cruise night found a kit he liked almost Immediately on the Internet using our smart phone, still amazes me how easy all is now. Not so back in the Day😁! He decided on this one from Jegs https://www.jegs.com/i/Competition+Engineering/247/3113/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6oyO2-ji8gIV3MizCh1jJATWEAQYAyABEgLCc_D_BwE

I had an old memory flashback while talking to a youngster of 50 @ a cruise night. He had acquired @ an obscene price, a 1970 Formula 400 Firebird. A very sharp Ride that Was much like my 1st new car, also a 70 Formula 400 when I was 21. I’m sure anyone with any 70 Firebird who Perf’d it up & took to the track regularly caused the same issue. When he was restoring it he discovered crack under the paint from the top corner of the rear Window thru the body to the top rear of the door on pass. side but it was coming back & could be seen as a hairline crack starting again. I relived my experiences with mine including the same issue with mine in ‘71 when I repaired mine but didn’t get to the root of the problem. 400’s made a bunch of torque, too much for the new body design in 70 which looks sweet ( still love them ) but was too flexible for pushing the limits of the 400 engine. The sharp corners of the body @ the rear upper corner of door glass & rear window left a weak stress point under full torque loads on subframe & body in that area. He’d discovered the same issue I caused racing mine, although he didnt cause it as he didn’t race it as I had mine. At the time I’d tried the same fix, stitch welding the crack & broke most of the welds next few times I raced. I told him the real fix i found out a few years later was tying the front frame stubs to the rear near the rear spring shackles to make frame subframes more rigid. I didn’t do either as no kits were available @ the time & my funds $ @ 22 we’re thin 😂! I told him I wasn’t sure whether anyone ever made a kit for the ‘70 & newer Firebird & Camaro's but thought they must as 15 years later I had a Fox Body Mustang convertible with similar issues manifesting underneath that started showing hair line stress cracks where Sub frame & body met & found a subframe kitl solving it & was sure if kit was made for the Mustangs they must have made for the Firebird & Camaro too. Fast Internet surf easily found one for him on the smart phone & only $185. It wasn’t that easy in the ‘70’s 🤔🤣. Pic included was mine in The Day, took a smart phone pic of an old glossy😁! Hope I didn’t bore you too much.

One of my favorite all time vehicles is a 1957 Safari Wagon. While the 1955 & ‘56 Safari’s were Quirky Cool & would love to have one, the supreme beauty was the ‘57. It was ‘50’s Art! I had its cousin, a ‘57 Chev Nomad when 16 & didn’t know Pontiac had an almost twin cousin, the Safari! Bought the Nomad in 1966 for $300 😂! After seeing the ‘57 Safari wished I had gotten it instead! https://www.google.com/search?q=1957+safari+wagon&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari#imgdii=5dYjDxkS5HY6vM&imgrc=BLzxz1Jh9XdTZM

My Mom & Dad, we’re both loving generous souls & had a ‘67 Lemans. They gave it to me & my new Bride when we got married in 1969! Midnite blue, w a light & dark blue interior. Very sharp.

Justa6, sounds like w the trial & error part U have been there as I have on many an occasion 😳😂😂

I believe I commented on the T/A site & u replied “I have gone on YouTube and other sites and have read about the electronic control module and the coil to be replaced. I have ordered the two parts and am waiting for delivery. ” Did u receive install the parts u ordered? Was there any improvement? If the coil & the elect. Control Mod. didn’t help & I don’t believe u related on the T/A forum that u or ur son & a friend rebuilt the carb. That would be the next thing as suggested here to check on! Could b ur running “Great” as u say while auto choke is operating w & when it opens full as temp reaches operating parameter, with the full air intake ur fuel to air ratio drops & u bog. This could b a carb issue except it sounds like u had the same issue before rebuilding the carb. So as the vehicle sat a lot in its life id check the fuel screen filter @ the carb. to see if it has dark or rust debris. U may need to clean ur fuel lines & gas tank. Sitting a lot causes rust in tank which will foul the fuel line. I have a ‘40 ford pickup that had similar issue to urs & that’s what it was. When first starting ran good after 15 minutes after choke opened not, gas starved. Unfortunately w old cars symptoms it is trial & error. I believe I said previously in the T/A forum reply 220 degrees is not that hot for a 1980 T/A & shouldn’t cause bogging & stalling. While the advice on clogged water ports in ur block are valid if if ur temps were 20 degrees higher which could cause roughness & stalling. I don’t think cooling is the problem as u indicate it doesn’t go over 220 degrees which I believe is midrange on a stock 1980 T/A temp gauge. Flushing an oldster is always a good idea but I don’t think it’s the issue or the cure!