Bonneville convertable64

3 hours ago, Frosty said:

Del - quick question before I go off and do my homework assignment from Kiwi. This is a factory correct 1964 gauge pod that you purchased, correct? It is not from another year is it? It makes a difference as the mid-sixties GM changed the ohm resistance on these gauges, as you know.

The 1964 full-size oil pressure sending unit, stamped 60 lbs., is GM Part # 1506191 or 6460468. It has both the P/N and 60 lbs. stamped on them. Pricing on these original '64 "AC" units also in the $100 plus range for each.

Although the 1963 through 1966 full-size oil pressure sending units may look identical to other AC units, they are internally different. From an old GM "Electrical" handbook, I found out the following: All 1963 through 1966 "Full Size" sending units had a maximum resistance of 31 ohms at full pressure (80 or 60 pounds - the gauges' dial resistances are different allowing for a 80 lbs gauge in the 1963 pod and a 60 lbs gauge in the 1964 pod and so on). This is different from a 1965 through 1966 "GTO" and 1967 and Up all Pontiac models sending unit as they had a maximum resistance of 93 ohms (All the pontiac catalogs including PY and AMES sell these.) One can not use a current GM replacement or aftermarket 1967 and UP 80 pound unit for the 1963 through 1966 "Full-size" Pontiacs as the oil pressure gauge will peg (based upon the resistance of the gauge) at only 20 or 26 pounds of actual oil pressure.

The turn signal switch on the steering column was bad. It diverts power so if it doesn’t work correctly the brake lights won’t work. It took me a while to figure out why the brake lights were intermittent. The replacement is only available for tilt wheel. All you have to do is transfer the black switch mechanism over to original bracket. Two bendable metal tabs make for an easy swap. All good now. After inspecting the old one I believe it could have been cleaned and repaired in a pinch. Happy to have a new one now.

Just visited my engine builder. I had to drop off valve covers before rebuilt engine gets paint. It looks great. He said he had to tap the rocker studs which then calls for different rockers. It should be ready for pickup tomorrow!

Photo of the transmission and motor just purchased. It is still mounted to the transmission. I suggested that so no damage could occur or parts lost. It looks to be an aluminum trans case. Gene, transmission expert, said they are rare. This makes my 4th one.

43 minutes ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

i found this and it may help you 👍...........

 

 

 

You have a very rare set of gauges. The hook-ups are the same for either a '63 or '64 car. The only difference in the gauges is that the '63 set uses a 80 pound oil pressure gauge whereas the '64 uses a 60 pound oil pressure gauge.

Here is my two cents, for what it is worth on the oil transducer. I will give some input for you on the '63 package and hopefully help out BigAquaBonney on his earlier posted question on the '64 gauge package for a part number. Here you go.....

I have done a considerable amount of research on both the oil pressure transducers used from 1963 through 1967. I needed to do this because I have two 63's and one 64 gauge packages (installed in individual dash pods) and was tired of getting "the pegging" results that many see when an aftermarket transducer is used. Others may have been sucessful in finding matches, I have not.

I will start with the early ones.

The 1963 full-size oil pressure sending unit, is an "AC" unit that is stamped 80 lbs., and is actually GM Part # 1506251. (See picture below). Later 63's were also "AC" units and were stamped with the P/N and 80 lbs., (some of the earlier "AC" units only had the 80 lbs. stamped on them.) In all my years of searching, the 80 lbs. indication was always stamped. In 1963, Vulcan Motor Products out of Newark, NJ also made an aftermarket replacement sending unit, OPV-9. The insulator tended to crack on these if they were over-tightened - you can still find some of these around but be very careful as some cracked ones were most likely returned when the installer inadvertently over-tightened them. You will not get a correct reading on them if they have a cracked insulator. In the past, I have seen pricing on the original '63 "AC" units in the $100 plus range for each. It was the first year for the "pontiac gauge package" and these units are getting harder and harder to find.The Vulcan units have been priced in the $40 plus range. I haven't seen them on ebay in the last year or so. But, I will check my storage cabinent. I may have a few spares of each and might consider selling some of them. Please do not bombard me with requests, when I find them I will let you know. I think I also have spare 63 and 64 gauge packages too. But, I need to check.

The 1964 full-size oil pressure sending unit, stamped 60 lbs., is GM Part # 1506191. It has both the P/N and 60 lbs. stamped on them. Pricing on these original '64 "AC" units also in the $100 plus range for each.

Although the 1963 through 1966 full-size oil pressure sending units may look identical to other AC units, they are internally different. From an old GM "Electrical" handbook, I found out the following: All 1963 through 1966 "Full Size" sending units had a maximum resistance of 31 ohms at full pressure (80 or 60 pounds - the gauges' dial resistances are different allowing for a 80 lbs gauge in the 1963 pod and a 60 lbs gauge in the 1964 pod and so on). This is different from a 1965 through 1966 "GTO" and 1967 and Up all Pontiac models sending unit as they had a maximum resistance of 93 ohms (All the pontiac catalogs including PY and AMES sell these.) One can not use a current GM replacement or aftermarket 1967 and UP 80 pound unit for the 1963 through 1966 "Full-size" Pontiacs as the oil pressure gauge will peg (based upon the resistance of the gauge) at only 20 or 26 pounds of actual oil pressure.

Now lets talk about wiring.The temperature and oil pressure transducers are shown in the pictures below. The temperature transducer get the green wire wheras the oil transducer gets the blue wire. The faded red wire (pink) is 12 V switched power source.

When installing your sensors, the oil transducer also get a 45 degree brass elbow. Do not use teflon tape on either of the transducers as they were meant to be grounded to get the proper readings.

I have shown the gauge package set as installed in my '63 - 421 Catalina Convertible.

What an incredibly helpful batch of information! Thank you so much! We are well on our way to discovering  the mysteries of the ‘64 Bonneville. This will need to go into my future book “The travels of 1964 Bonneville”. When the car is solid enough, my son and I plan to travel 3,000 miles back to California where we first bought her. We will have it shipped back since one way is daring enough. After that we will have plenty to fill the pages. Of course your going in the book my friend!

The light purchased on eBay came in today. It looks great. 

You know your enjoying your car when it makes it on the Christmas card.

24 minutes ago, TWO LANE BLACK TOP said:

I guess it's time for me to eat some crow...I stand corrected....

Must be getting old and confused...And not nearly as sharp as I once was... Even 5 years ago...Getting old sucks...

Take it easy on yourself buddy. We are all learning together 

20 minutes ago, TWO LANE BLACK TOP said:

The balancer only has one timing mark on it from the factory...Someone else has added the other mark (It was a common practice to use a hacksaw blade to remark it) that's why the second mark/ groove looks factory...89000 miles on those old engines is alot...Usually by the time they got to 100,000 miles...plus or minus 10 to 12 thousand miles...Depending on how well they were maintained...They are pretty much due for an overhaul...Unlike modern engines they were actually designed to be rebuilt/overhauled and was considered normal to do so...back in the day...They were not designed/made to last 200,000 plus... Miles like modern day engines do...

All three Bonneville 389’s I have had the same two timing marks. It has 0 and the 6*. It says that in the service manual somewhere 

My Original motor has been torn down. Rings looked decent for a 64 motor with 100k. It looks like it was never touched. We did a .30 piston bore. Other bearings will stay original. Should be done in a few weeks. 3k for parts and labor from a great local machinists.

Bought this cool little, original dealer promo car. It Wes 65 but just saw one sell for over 400.00. I guess they didn’t make very many. I need to cut the top off and paint it my color. Nice addition at the car shows.

Picked up some original SS wipers on eBay for Bonnie #2. Just cut some new wiper replacements to fit. Works great in original fashion now.