Wrongway

I'm not advising you to do this, but if it WAS me, I would run a wire from the coil to my battery. That would ensure i was keeping 12V at the coil. See if the car will run. But if your losing power when you turn the key on then something is crossed somewhere. Could be pink and orange like Justa mentioned.

Not knowing what's been done so far and what you've tried is why I was asking these things. I think my next step would be to unplug the jumper wire, Try to start the car, when it doesn't fire leave the key in to on position and see if there is power still at the coil. No power, no fire. If you went electric fuel pump with switch still on check to see if it has power. No pump, no fire.

Did you have a chance to reach out to tech support yet?

Ok thanks, I also used only the 941 so my radio only had power when the switch is on. The 940 wire is a 12V constant that can be used to pretty much power anything that needs a constant current like a clock or the memory function on a modern stereo with clock, presets and such.

I believe you stated that before you hooked up the jumper wire the car would crank but not stay running? If that is correct, did you check to see if there was still power at the coil? Are you still using the mechanical fuel pump, or did you switch to electric? If using electric is there power at the fuel pump? Before the jumper was installed.

13 hours ago, Alweeja said:

but I am looking to spend $$$$ wisely.

Wish I would've done that! 

On 2/19/2024 at 3:14 PM, Cstacey said:

However I now have constant power to my radio… and blower motor does not work as it should… by running that jumper wire is that what is causing the radio to always have power could this be also causing blower motor issues….

So, if it was me, I would double check that the orange wire IS indeed #933 and I didn't install #903 by mistake, super easy to mix up when frustrated. Also double check that pink wire #931 was hooked up and not pink #906. Could also be that the ignition switch is now working and wired correctly and there is an issue with the radio or blower wire instead. Which radio wires did you use? Did you use both the yellow #940 and the #red #941 or justa one of them and if so which one? Also, you said that the blower motor isn't running as it should, what is it doing or not doing?

Hey Cathy, just curious, but which Painless harness did you get? Like what part number? The reason I ask is because I installed PN# 10102 a couple of years ago in my 63. I have a 9 pin switch and never could get it wired up to work correctly. I reached out to Painless tech dept. and spent multiple hours talking to techs and the "experts" that the techs call when they can't solve a problem. I was told multiple times that I could buy a switch from them or go to a parts house and buy a 5 or 7 pin switch and it would wire right up. Might want to reach out to the tech dept justa to see what they say. Goodluck and keep us posted.

Gonna be a looker when you get her done Rick! I personally think that grill is kinda cool bro.

Welcome and congrats bud! Keep us post on your progress and pictures.

Looks great!!!

Welcome Al, do you have any pictures? What's been done to your Chieftain?

Sweet ride bro, 

Great pics bro! What's been done, stock or? Any inside pics? 

Awesome, congrats on getting her home bro! 

Hey welcome! Got any pics? Incase nobody mentioned it, we really like pictures around here.

Good job on the striker Ron, that steering wheel looks awesome bro! Make sure you keep us posted on your progress bro and show us that 3D piece once that's finished. 

Hell Justa, some of yall may have even seem me on the side of the road, I was working in Auburn hills at the time and running late for work. 

Yeah I went with Autometer also, the Auto gage series, part# 2399 for the large face and look.

So the only way I could find to hide the wiring, oil line and coolant was to run them up the top part of the console then zip tie the wires together. When I rewired the car the Painless harness I used did not come with the wiring for the console. I knew I was installing these gauges, so I built a harness for the console with those wires included. The oil line and coolant lines also go up the console to the firewall and out to the engine from there. I went with the 2 & 5/8 " gauges because I thought it looked more at home and old eyes can see them easier.

On a personal note, if you are going to run aftermarket gauges in anything, I would highly advise upgrading to the copper line for the oil gauge. You can get it from any auto parts store. It's much more durable and have I personally had the plastic line explode while driving. Running along about 80mph, gauges mounted to the A-pillar and shot hot oil on the inside of the windshield. It was a mess! I haven't run a plastic oil line since. 

Hey 63, welcome buddy. So first, you might want to spray everything out really good. You said it was removed for paint, sometimes dirt, dust and garbage can get inside those little gears and springs and "gum it up". I've personally seen it and had it happen to me when I've had things apart for paint. It probably won't fix the problem, but it can't hurt to do a good cleaning and maybe spray a bit of oil. Second, awesome interior bud, I love it! Would love to see some pics of the rest of the car when you can.

Kiwi, great pics of that latch bro!

Voted

Thats sharp, love the purple!