Ant

My first GTO at 18 was 74, mine was dark blue with red interior which looked almost orange. Had the original window sticker with it, factory 4 speed car with rally gauges. I put a 455 with 670 heads in it, had a lot of fun with that car. Still miss it, I wound up painting it Buccaneer red and changing the interior to black as back then I could not get much for interior for it. Yours is sweet in that color!! Ant

My 68 gto, has a 467 with butler's 340cfm heads and their biggest hydraulic roller cam topped with Holleys HP fuel injection. It made 504hp and 530 foot pounds through a t56 magnum and a strange dana 60. Ant

I finally got my Holley hp efi up and running and it's like a totally different car! I will never run a carb again ever! So much smoother under all driving conditions its unbelievable how much better it's running. I still have some tuning to do and I want to get it on a dyno to see what the power level is and also set up the nos properly. Ant

Thanks for the write up, if anyone needs to have gauges fixed the best guy out there is Peter Siero of Precision Pontiac. We've had him do a bunch of sets over the last 20 years. He did my main cluster in my 68 and several sets for 65s for us. I had bought an aftermarket set for the 68 and since you have to use your speedo they looked like junk the colors didn't match at all. So I dug through my old files and found Peter's number and he did an original set for me and they came out great!! Ant

Johny, Glad your happy with it and I hope it works long term for you, as I mentioned they really are a glorified Carb which if I wanted that I would have stayed with the Quick Fuel 950 that I have it works great but I want additional tuneability for my car that the FITECH does not offer. I'm just waiting to get my intake back from my brother with the injector bungs in it so I can get mine back up and running. Ant

I talked to those guys at sema and was not impressed. They only make throttle body systems for a pontiac which in my opinion is not better then a carb. There didn't seem to be much you could do to tune it yourself so if you have a high performance motor I was not convinced it would work. A guy brought one to the local machine shop for his car and they used it for the initial break in, the machinists were not sure it was that great either. I know the price seems good but I think the for a mostly stock motor I'd go for the edlebrock, they have a multi port sequential system. Comes with complete with intake injectors dual sync distributor for 1700. You only need to upgrade fuel pump. For my car I'm going with the Holley hp system which is about 2800 or so but while it will self tune I can tune for peak power and it will control other things like a dry shot of NOS which should be fun. I just got all the stuff so it will be a bit before its ready to drive, since my intake is already port matched I have to install the injector bungs and fuel rail mounts which my brother is going to do for me. I'll keep you posted though. Ant

So the current coils read that much difference? That seems odd, I'll check some specs tomorrow when I get to the shop. ant

Those are known to get cracks in the coil housing you need to turn in over and inspect it for cracks that is your most likely cause. I'm going by memory on this but I'm remembering a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail with the car running pull the vacuum hose of and make sure no fuel sprays out if it does replace it. If that is good check the fuel pressure under load, I dont think that is your issue though since under load it would it would miss worse then at idle. My money in on the coil housing Ant

Egr will throw it's own code and will not affect idle. Does it miss at idle or under load? What do the fuel trims look like? It would be good to clean the mass air flow sensor with the correct cleaner, carb and brake clean can leave a film the will affect the readings. Ant What motor do you have? The 3.4 has a mass air flow in the intake tube, you said you replaced the plug wires the 2.4 does not have wires so I'm confused. Ant

If your worried about rust run dot4 its synthetic fluid. Other option is to flush about every 2 years. Besides the best thing you can do for the whole car is drive it at least once a month. A long time ago a good friend gave me that advice he had one of the nicest 65 tri power cars, it was black on black. He said he used to let it sit for months at a time and it was always something he had to do, carbs leaking brake issues then he started to drive it at minimal once a month said that was the end of the problems. Ant

Egr will throw it's own code and will not affect idle. Does it miss at idle or under load? What do the fuel trims look like? It would be good to clean the mass air flow sensor with the correct cleaner, carb and brake clean can leave a film the will affect the readings. Ant

Hello all, So SEMA was awesome to say the least, i had several conversations with Holley as well as Edelbrock, FAST and FITECH. I have ordered the Holley HP system including their dual-sync Distributor. I thought that i might share a bit of what i learned talking them all and why i went with Holley. first since i have a pretty healthy motor, it should make around 600hp according to what Butler told me of course the dyno will tell that story when we get to that point, i need a single plane intake and i also wanted sequential multi port injection. to do that you have 2 options Holley or Edelbrock. The edelbrock is a bit cheaper you can but their intake with injectors installed and the ecm complete for about $1700 only thing you need is the correct fuel pump. by far the best deal it even comes with a distributor, and self learns as you drive. the down side is for someone like me who needs to be able to do more tuning and wants to add a few more things which i will get to in a bit. they do have an updated ECM coming out next year that will allow more features as well as some data logging. fast does have a system that i could use but they have not updated their ECM in a long time so i felt that i wanted something that was current and was going to be supported for a while. as well as them trying to talk me out of sequential injection (so did fitech) they claim its only needed for emisions which is only part of the story. in high HP situations you can empty the fuel rail with the batch fire system since it dumps half the rail at a time as opposed to sequential where it fires each cylinder in the correct firing order, just like all new cars for the last 20years. in my mind there is a reason that every car on the road fires that way, you don't have fuel sprayed and laying in the intake when needed. i remember those old batch fire GM motors they never ran smooth always felt like they had a misfire. anyway for me i want sequential FITECH just did not seem like a fit to me at all, and i have read a few really bad reviews of their stuff. of course i know that all needs to be taking with a grain of salt. so back to the Holley, here are some thing you need to know if you want to run their system: Get the dual sync dist from them, its plug and play and you get the correct cam crank signal to run sequential and full ECM control of timing. that allows you to curve how you need even pull timing out for things like Nitrous.. you can still use an MSD box for the multi spark (which i already have) it does self learn we will see how close it gets it when i get it up and running, no matter what mine is going on a dyno, i have way to much money in my motor to gamble on it having any issues plus i want to tune for the most power. you can get any size injector for whatever power level, i am going with the Deatchworks ones i have used them in a customers car they worked great and they gave me a great deal on them. also great guys to deal with, talked to them at sema answered all our questions and gave a a discount too!!!! you will need a laptop or purchase one of their touch screens, they just released a 12" one at sema that you can configure for you gauges it pretty cool but not needed. with Holley you are able to data log everything and see what the car is doing and make adjustment as needed. if your running or want to run a newer auto trans like a 4l80E you can get their Dominator system and it will do that an a lot more, my car is and always will be a stick so i did not need to spend the extra for that. I have decided i want to try running nitrous for the first time so i asked a bunch of questions about that, with the holley system it will control the NOS for you, you can do a dry system so which means (this is all new to me so I thought others might like to know) that you only are spraying the nos into the intake and let the EFI add the fuel. a lot simpler then a wet system where you have an added valve to spray fuel which requires additional regulator and fuel lines to handle that. the Holley will pull the timing back to what you set it to will adjust to your desired A/F ratio and will turn the solenoid on and off based on your TPS setting for throttle, you also set what min rpm for it to turn on and then rpm off. So after all the talking and reading i did i felt that for me the holley is the most powerful and best way to go, i hope that this helps others to understand some of the basics of theses system, if you have any questions about my post let me know I'll try to clarify them. i also am only sharing my opinion of what i think will work for me each of us has and needs different things so the other systems may work better for you then me and vise versa. I will post some pics from sema when i get to my other PC where they are stored, Ant

Yes I added the hideaways and I like the 69 grilled better. Thanks for the kind words Ant

Just a quick update I requested a refund from Baldwin, could not wait any longer. I'm going g to SEMA next week and plan on talking to Holley about their HP multi port EFI system. I'm sure that is the direction I'm going to go. Ant

Bear, The quick fuel runs great my only issue is at cruise if I get into 6th gear I get a kind of shake if I done shift and raise the rpm it goes away I really think it's in the dist curve. Out of the box the carb has never been rich the plugs look great. I dont have a air fuel meter, I had one on my comet but i found it to not be that useful I had a quick fuel on that too and my machinist helped me dial it in we changed a couple air bleeds once and it always ran great, though I had that same shake if the rpm were to low. I also had an msd dist in that motor so once i get my stuff from Baldwin I'll know more. My only issue with him is he told me 2 week and that was over 6 weeks ago and I still dont have my stuff. Ant