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Hello,   This is my sixty dollar, junk yard, most likely dead 4L60E transmission bolted up to the rebuilt engine for the first time. Getting these two completely together was not easy even though it should be - simply align the dowl pins to the holes and apply the bolts. The two would align and go together but . . . not quite. A gap of about a quarter of an inch remained between them and I was not about to turn up the torque and twist those five bolts even tighter - and maybe damage the bellhousing.  I knew the threads on the engine side were clean because I ran an M10 x 1.5 tap through each hole to renew the threads and clean out the hole.    When I got this engine out of the junk yard, it came to me without any transmission to engine bolts and the vehicle's 4L60E transmission was already gone and purchased by somebody else.  So, I set about the junk yard to pick up suitable looking bolts and gathered up maybe 10-12 that looked right.  These bolt threads were also cleaned up.   What are the odds but it appears that the bolts that I picked up on the ground were all for a different transmission - probably a 4L80E.  And they are all just a little bit too long.  I looked around my bolt buckets and found some slightly shorter M10 x 1.5 bolts and these easily pulled the motor and transmission together for that final bit of closure.    Trouble is, my spare bolts are not of a Grade 8 or better strength and I will need to find a set of a suitable strength later today or Monday at a good hardware store.   All of this gets me ready to test fit the engine and transmission into the engine compartment for the first time.

Well, dang I hadn’t even gotten to the cool parts yet !! It has a 400amp service for house and garages. And a generator that supports everything for house, and both garages. On the pics part let me get it organized and straightened up and I’ll take some. But, the solid maple cabinets that were built for both garages are killer. The previous owner was a cabinet maker. He did some nice work. I’m not trying to bost at all. I just got lucky with this house. The last one that had a nice garage I was out bidded on. 

Hey Fitzy,    I don't envy your wiring woes.  I am still waiting on a new engine harness to solve a lack of power problem inside the passenger compartment.  There is a fellow on You Tube called "Craft Customs" that explains the wiper and pump motor in fine details with diagrams and testing procedures.    Rick 

Hello, I am searching for the vacuum line diagram for a 1962 Bonneville 389 4bbl. Thanks in advance

Well look who's back. I have been fiddling with the wiring on the GP and despite my flowery rose tinted visions of neat perfect wiring under the dash...it's still messy, but better and slightly neater. I sent the Frosty Tach & my fuel gauge to a specialist (a real one this time) and they were returned with both apparently working. I haven't tested anything yet but the fuel gauge was taken apart and recalibrated and the tach got new modern guts, so I'll be sure to let you know. Pulling the interior apart gave me a chance to right a few wrongs and everything is snugly back together except for the driver's seat as I'm still fiddling with the headlights & wipers.  The headlights were NOT playing the game. I tested the power to each of the 4 and 12.4V to all and all the earths are clean and in good shape. Only one worked. I took it out and tried it amongst all outlets and it worked. For some reason, 3 of the sealed beams decided to go at the same time. You are suspecting a voltage spike like I did? No evidence of that whatsoever. It seems that the seal on sealed beams will eventually fail. The lower lights seem to be the 60 year old originals, so I ordered 4 new ones thru Rockauto for less than the price of ONE Australian one. The wipers....after days of experimentation and blowing fuses I have ascertained that there's no juice getting to the motor. The switch simply completes the ground and makes them work. I Frankensteined a wiring setup that fed the battery directly into the wiper motor and success! I will supply the motor with a switched wire when I next get time. I fitted new dual duty LEDs as my front park/indicators. They are a bright white when on park and flash amber when indicating. I tried to fit LED stop/tail indicators WITH a new LED flasher can but the car didn't like it, so back to incandescent rear lights. Next time I'm home, I'm gonna finish the wiring, bolt the seat back in and fire her up. If the tach works, I shall post footage. I know, it's exciting.