Bonne61

Oh, almost forgot! I ordered a set of Bangin' Headlights for it - classic-styled led's that look like originals, and even have glass lenses with the original markings https://www.banginheadlights.com And, a Gravelrash Audio Bluetooth module, cigarette switch actuator and Blaupunkt centre dash speaker unit for it, so we can have decent tunes but keep it original https://www.gravelrashbluetoothaudio.com.au Greg from Gravelrash actually took measurements from my car and built the speaker pod to suit - can't beat service like that can you? Very excited 😁

Today (well, yesterday) I removed all of the door trims, cleaned all of the lower channels in the doors, then sprayed them with zinc to help protect them from rust. While in there I fixed everything that was loose (rods, door handles, etc), lubricated all hinges, striker plates, joints, mechanisms and slides. Am considering what to do about the rhf window - the support bracket has rusted and separated from the lower window support, so the window doesn't slide up and down evenly. Thinking to somehow attach a metal or nylon bracket between the lower support and the bottom of the window to secure it, not sure how just yet. Fitted a second fuel filter between the pump and the carb, to be sure. Still have to remove the fuel sender & adjust the arm slightly, as it's slightly out of range.

Yes, I do understand that the repro stuff we can access can be less than ideal a lot of the time. However, the car literally ran perfectly up until "it" happened (over 6,000klms!), & has been shit ever since. When I say perfect, I mean...cold start first time, idled smoothly (well as smooth as can be expected taking the cam into consideration), cruised like a dream, accelerated clean and hard. Even hot start was only after a few winds (this car has always been a little slow on hot start though). So my uneducated brain still tells me its a "failure" of some kind, not just a shit component. Because if it was a condenser, the issue wouldn't present as it does, or would it? Either would a set of bad points I don't believe? Anyhoo, another Cardone is on the was so I'm really hoping that will actually sort it. If not, I will then have 3 sets of points, condensers, caps and rotors to play with🙄

The cap was swapped for the one off the original distributor - same issue. And...it was running just fine for about 6,000k's, then this issue raised it's head. So I'm left with the mechanics diagnosis at this point, until proven incorrect. Have a new distributor on the way, so fingers crossed 🙏

While I'm here, has anyone used alternative components to make their original horn work? Maybe Holden or Chev? I have the wheel and horn bar, but only the contact that is mounted to the wheel, 1x spring and the nut. Hence, when the wheel is tightened, the horn bar won't "rock", and there isn't enough in there to make the horn work anyway. I know there are other solutions, but I'd really like to get this working.

Hey @Fitzy, even the mechanic who built the motor said he has never seen a distributor do that. Ever! He pulled & checked every lead as it was running, & saw that there was no spark on #8. To be certain, he reversed the firing order & sure enough...no spark on #1. Then he bench tested it, again nothing on #8. Bench tested another V8 distributor he knew was good to make sure the issue wasn't with the tester, & it worked fine. So after all of that he believes that there must be an internal failure with it, for whatever reason🤷‍♂️ Given that we have checked, adjusted or replaced everything else, I hope he's correct...I guess we'll know soon. The distributor is a new Cardone, which seemed to be the best available at the time (still is, it seems?). So I've just ordered another one through Rockauto (due 29th December), hoping that this is just "one of those things". The reviews are overall positive, but mixed. But the reviews on everything else available seem to be the same. There just doesn't seem to be a consistent, decent quality product out there that most people have used and are happy with.

Hello again all, I've been laying low because up until yesterday we haven't been able to solve the problem, & TBH I've had the shits! However...after checking, testing, rechecking, replacing, etc, etc, etc, it appears as if the bloody NEW distributor that we installed after the rebuild has an internal issue, & is not supplying spark to #8 (there's a bloody long story as to what was done before discovering this, & how it was discovered, but I don't want to bore you all). It was a Cardone distributor, that up until this issue has been running perfectly (still looks new, which it essentially is). Not wanting to go electronic or remanufactured I've just ordered a new one through Rockauto. Which hopefully will be the end of this one! Thank you for all of the suggestions & advice - I've learned a lot from you guys yet again.

So, earth lead from distributor to coil is new, as distributor is also new. Any ideas why I should have 6.5v with ignition on, but 9v when its idling? This seems backwards doesn't it?

So, earth lead from distributor to coil is new, as distributor is also new. Any ideas why I should have 6.5v with ignition on, but 9v when its idling? This seems backwards doesn't it?

Well @Frosty @Last Indian @Fitzy @64 kiwi boni, In summary below, your combined advice and my actions (if any):- * vacuum leaks - sprayed BrakeCleen around carb vacuum fittings, base gaskets & inlet manifolds. Thought I detected a very slight rise in idle from the back of the carb (may also have been wishful thinking😬). Removed carb, sealed base gaskets with HT grease, removed & sealed vacuum fitting with thread tape & Permatex. Road tested, no change🙄 * Power supply to coil - this one seems a bit strange to me...I'm getting @6.5v with ignition on (not running), & @9v at idle, which doesn't follow with what you guys have said😯 * Fuel pressure - I'm unable check this (seems to be a strong supply volume though). * Points/condensor poor quality - unknown So, it's off to the mechanics again on Monday, & hopefully it won't come back until it's right🤷‍♂️

Thanks for that-I’ll chase the vacuum solution. As for fuel pressure-prior to this issue the pump (Holley mechanical) was working perfectly. Also, if it was fuel pressure wouldn’t it deteriorate rather than improve as the revs/speed increased, due to poor delivery?

Hey @Frostyand @64 kiwi boni, Thanks for your replies-fuel filter is clean, carby has been stripped & cleaned, base gasket is new, plugs (BP5S) were replaced, & have since been pulled & checked a few times now (I even swapped the them over in case that might highlight something), points look as new (as Is distributor, rotor & cap), there is no arcing or witness marks inside the cap or on the rotor, the vacuum lines from the brake booster & distributor vacuum advance are both in place & secure. Anything else I could be missing (no pun intended)?

Hey all, This is a bit long-winded, but the issue is becoming increasingly annoying so I'm putting it out there to see if anyone may have a possible solution. I'll list all relevant details below... Car has been running really well, but lifters were a bit noisy so checked into my mechanic for an adjustment. Motor has done @ 6,500km's since rebuild. At the same time it had a new set of plugs installed, & a tune up. Mechanic drove it just prior to me picking it up, & said it was going well. On the way home, it seemed to be missing a little but I put it down to the heat & wasn't too concerned at that stage. Next morning, it was a bit rough at cold idle & was definitely missing on immediate throttle opening, and at slow cruise speed. Hard acceleration it seemed all good. Car ran pretty poorly, so I stopped in to fill the tank (took 80l, so wasn't empty enough to have dragged any shit into the system). Seems a little better after that, but not much. Anyhoo...60' 389 rebuilt to 400 (all the details & specs I have but don't think will help here?). New distributor, fuel sender, fuel pump, carb. Plugs have been checked & cleaned, lifters have been re-adjusted, carb has been stripped, checked & cleaned and retuned, so dirt in there isn't the problem. To be honest, the car ran exactly the same after this was done! Coil & leads have been been replaced since also, to no avail (although the new leads look good😃). As stated, missing occurs just on throttle opening, & slow cruise (idle/primary circuit)? Will pull easily to 80mph & beyond with no problem, if you boot it. Thanxx 🤷‍♂️

@64 kiwi boni I'm fairly certain that an Impala front end will only be compatible with yours if yours is a Canadian or Australian rhd car (ie: Chevy chassis). When I did up my front brakes I couldn't find '61 spindles so had to go '63/'64 & change over drums, backing plates & all, as even they were different. Even the Impala wheel cylinders are different (won't fit our backing plates), as I was sent some of those too, & ended up gutting those to rebuild my Pontiac cylinders.

Hey @TWO LANE BLACK TOP Thanks for the info! While you were on your extended dinner date, I did some more research of my own - I actually possess a Workshop Manual for the '61, which describes (at length) much the same process as what you have sent through. Looking at it, I made the decision that I had neither the equipment or expertise to do the job, as I didn't want to kill my brand new generator, battery or regulator. But digging that little bit further I discovered that my regulator (whilst being listed by numerous sources as the correct replacement part for the car - AC Delco D618, 55-63)), is not adjustable (see attached photos)! So, off to the auto electricians AGAIN tomorrow, hopefully this time for an actual resolution. I'm a little over being told to replace parts that in the end are not changing the fact that the charging system is simply NOT charging sufficiently to maintain a healthy battery charge level. And when you put it like that, you would think an auto electrician should really be able to sort that, IMO? Thanks again, I'll keep you updated with my progress...

Hey @TWO LANE BLACK TOP, Have you had a chance to check out that regulator info yet, or are you still on that date🤔

Either that or he has aspirations well beyond his capabilities😉

Thanks for that - that would be great. Even better if I can do I t myself, as I'm a little sick of the to & fro from the Aut-elecs atm! Enjoy your "real girl" date 😍

Thanks for the compliment😃 I haven't needed to get many trim items but I know Frank's Pontiac Parts in Cali have quite a lot on their site, and are great to deal with. Hi there, Yes it is a standard style regulator - part number D618. Photo attached.

Oh I forgot - finally ordered seatbelts for it, too. Have tossed around ideas for months, but at the end of the day even if I buy Australian Compliance belts 2 point belts (I can get these), Queensland Laws require all outboard belts to be 3 point. Ergo, I'll have Australian Complied belts that can't be complied once fitted 🙄 So I've gone with belts that have USA Federal Compliance (safely and successfully fitted to thousands of vehicles over there), with bright chrome lift latch buckles. I'll fit 2 point all around (6x belts), with the belts in Red Wine so colour coded to the car. Sweet - 1. Wife happy 2. Safer than none 3. Still look period correct

Thanks for the alternator recommendation, although I've spent quite a bit on the new generator ($290) & regulator ($180), so I'll persist atm. In case though, is there anything else that I'd need to do if I change to an alternator? Topless? I thought you said it was pillarless 🤔😂

Hey there, I've been off-line for a bit. Been having charging issues with mine - only discovered after stopping to fuel up after a 3 hour drive & the car wouldn't start! Got battery checked & charged, but after checking incoming voltage was low. Back & forth to the auto elect it seems then new generator is fine. I replaced this when the motor was rebuilt, just because that way I know I've got a good working spare (the old one was working fine when it came off) & a brand new one on board. Bad news - apparently the regulator was stuffed. Replaced this, but is still seems to be having issues (charging voltage as low as 11.6v at idle or above (but not constant?) So, It'll be going back I guess...🙄 Good news - I got excited & advanced the timing a couple of degrees-wow, what a difference! It was fine before, but I just felt it was a little doughy. Not anymore 😈 When it was rebuilt the mechanic set it up at 6º btdc initially. Said it went like crazy, but the poor old original Hydramatic probably wouldn't survive the run-in period 😂 So it came back to me at 10º btdc. Anyway it can be a bit of a struggle on hot start (perfect cold), & didn't really jump off the line if it was a rolling start & not kicked down all the way. Not now, so pretty happy with that. Would like to try a little more, but don't have the funds for a tranny rebuild atm so best not I suppose 😬 Oh, I've been scammed recently too🤬 Cost me some cash, & probably more disappointing is the parts I thought I'd secured aren't on their way, fcuk it! So look out for Jody McCullough, he's a scammer (& a prick!), & DO NOT for any reason use a company called Fast Delivery Agency (in the US). And yes, they have their own website... Have included a couple of recent photos & a video of the car, just because you guys like them 😉 IMG_8216.mov

Thanks for the input - I was getting more than 12V but the USB I was using was only a 1A output! Switched to a 2.4A output & now it works fine👏

Haha, Dad's car had an interior that was called "Sand" I think, however it still burned 😬 And yes, 12v. It has that constantly, whether ignition is on or off. I'm wondering if it maybe doesn't have enough amps though - iPhone wall chargers are 5W... Thanks - I'll do that 🤙

The Big Car got some new carpet for the boot & rear deck, the chrome door knobs finally arrived too. Also, a mate made up some new kick panels out of 3mm sign board, then wrapped them in colour-matched vinyl. Looking good 😊 My "fuel filler shield" worked a treat - no more Premium Unleaded hand wash the I refill 😂 It seems my cigarette lighter charger didn't work as well as expected though`-although it does appear to be charging, it just didn't push any charge into the phone at all 🙄 Does anyone have any advice on this?