Fitzy

I loved Wrongway's story of his wife's stubbed pinky toe. Imagine being a fly on the wall and sniggering at the torrent of language that must have ensued, and then watching her as she attempted to pick up one of those cast iron monsters. She probably burst into tears, and then plotted her revenge. What staggers me is you had heads in the dinner room? I'm on your wife's side there - I would have burst into tears too! Kiwi's suggestion of going to my local spring shop is also funny. Up my way, it's all about lift kits in 4WDs. Having said that, I have contacted King Springs (about 2000km south of me) and they may be able to fabricate a set. More overtime coming up!

That's funny. Yeah, the sneaky migration of parts into the spare room was a long slow exercise and I think she's just given up. The car sits under our big carport at the entrance of our dwelling (actually a converted shed in the bush) so any visitors who make it past the shotgun blasts are forced to admire the car as they attempt to enter. Once I steal all their money, they are allowed one glass of home brewed beer and then told to never return. To my credit, I keep everything in the Pontiac room neat and orderly and everything that goes in there is clean so, you know, I'm not completely evil. Note the windscreens on the bed - a great excuse as to why nobody can stay the night!

Like my collection of springs? Crazy Fitzy's Spring Emporium is overstocked. Everything must go - to the tip! So, who would've thought that purchasing a set of lowered coils for one's Pontiac would be so fraught with danger? I found a set of front & rears on CarID. Sweet price, 2" drop, assurances that they would be a direct fit, let's do it. They turned up and one look told me they were smaller than mine and appear to suit an A body. Turns out their website info was wrong. No springs available from that manufacturer, so after they instructed me to destroy those nice brand new springs they did the right thing and refunded my initial cost and postage. In the meantime, I keep shopping. Oh look, Summit have a set. Sweet price, direct fit blah blah...lightning fast delivery and I open the box and same problem - they were wrong. I try in vain for a local supplier. Oh look. Fullsize Pontiac lowered springs. Wow-that's a good price and minimal shipping charge. So, I admit I'm a bit slow but this time I asked for dimensions before I placed the order. Guess what? Their website info is wrong as well. Seems to be some confusion that (a) fullsize does not mean A body (b) Pontiacs aren't Chevys (c) Parisiennes that were assembled locally are NOT true Pontiacs because of their Chevy underpinnings. So, I'm putting it out there. Any leads as to where I might try next? Before anyone says EatonDetroit, they don't offer lowered rears. And yes, I realise that lowering a car is not the bright way to go, but who can resist those beautiful sculpted lines 2" lower? I can't. And...you can't slice a coil out of the rears because the spring flattens out at the base where it sits on the axle tube, and who wants to cut springs anyway? I can't wait until my headers turn up? I wonder if they'll fit? And the manual steering box I'm contemplating. I sense impending doom.

Hey Kiwi, that's funny. My Olde Girle is not the sort to have ever been eyeing off the young men in nightclubs...so I believe, anyway. Having said that I believe her number is scratched into the wall of the local Hamilton phone box with "for a good time, call..." She's put up with a lot since we've been together. The Poncho is my last indulgence and since pulling it apart, bits of it have migrated into the house to the extent that the spare room is now the "Pontiac Room." I keep assuring her that once the stuff from the States turns up, I can simply put it all back together. No, she doesn't believe it either!

Hi Frosty, from the look of my car I don't reckon ANYTHING has ever been touched, so am assuming it's current diff is original. I actually got underneath it, in neutral and turned a wheel and counted the prop shaft turns relative to a full wheel turn. It looks to be a bit less then 3:1, so the diff code would appear to be correct. I know about PHS and have been tempted, but that money needs to be diverted to other stuff right now. A few years from now as I sit in my rocking chair, overlooking the Ponderosa and sampling my moonshine, the money I save on a set of new teeth can go to PHS.

Thanks Guys. The restorer actually made those floor panels in his shop, including the swage lines. Thanks also to Frosty for decoding that slip of paper. True to form, car has retractor seat belts, black vinyl seats and a visor mirror, but according to the code stamped on the diff housing, it's a 2.73, which I will much prefer to the 4.56. I thought a 4.11 was the lowest ratio available. Anyway, big shipment from Ames is still being assembled and I'm expecting it about end of August. That shipment completes the car's parts requirements, then it's just a matter of saving some more dough so that it can go to the exhaust shop, upholsterer and trusted mechanic. I will attend to all the remaining fiddly stuff and shall post photos as it progresses. Hey Kiwi, my missus is a Kiwi (grew up in Hamilton) and if you reckon I should keep the beach thing quiet from her, she's the one I'm running after!

Hey All, I've had to work some overtime to pay for the massive rust repair bill I received! The restorer is a craftsman, and the work he had to deal with was fiddly, precise & difficult. He did a great job. I have attached before & after photos. I am now the proud owner of a 55 year old rust free Poncho. I can deal with all the other stuff, but having a rust free old car is like shedding your clothes and running along the beach naked without a care in the world. When the cops turn up, have flower necklaces ready to put around their necks and show them photos of your car. They'll understand. This may interest some former Pontiac plant workers: I disassembled the passenger bucket seat today and found a slip of paper inside the vinyl. It mentions the car's body code and what looks like colour & trim options. A far cry from today's computer generated build sheets & barcode scanners. I have found a few trinkets in the car since I started pulling it apart: a ZigZag cigarette paper box, some quarters and what appears to be food stamps. The previous owner probably spent his weekly wage filling the tank with gas, then had to resort to stamps in order to eat!

I had a look at CarID.com and their prices were great but because they're an agent and not one warehouse, each item is shipped separately. OK if you're in the US but nightmarish for the rest of us! An example: remanufactured starter for $30, but over $100 to ship it. I went ahead coz it was still cheaper than any other option.

No need for apologies-once you enter the murky world of converting US dollars and paying through the nose for freight, the cost I ended up with is probably comporable to what it may have been otherwise. Anyway, I've saved a shitload of money doing heaps myself, so it's all good. At least I now have a professionally finished rust free body that should last another 55 years.

Don't worry about it - I got so fed up with the lack of responses from businesses purporting to be the ultimate source for this and that, I sent the car to a local restorer and he's done an excellent job fabricating & welding. Yeah, it cost me a packet but the workmanship is second to none. Anyway, thanks for giving it a crack. I'll post photos once I'm home from my current job.

Great. Let's see how we go. Once again, if it's a tidy shell, why would you chop it up?

I searched & contacted a number of US wrecking yards but nobody even bothers to return an email. Even USAparts.com haven't bothered to reply, which I find surprising, especially since I want to place an order ASAP. I realise Covid 19 is having an enormous impact, so can only guess plenty of places have shut down for the time being. SO, Chris (64 Boni) there's every chance that your '64 panels could fit, but do you want to chop up a body that's in good nick? I could send you some measurements if you want to go to all this trouble - everything is welded so you'll have to cut them out.

Hi Everyone, so the Poncho ( now named Mucho Oxidado) is off to a professional next week to have all it's rust removed - goodbye savings! It's been established that it's going to be cheaper and much less hassle in the long run if I can source whatever repro panels are required. Car is actually pretty good, but specifically it's the filler panel that runs between the bottom of the front windscreen and the dash, the rear panel that runs from the bottom of the rear 'screen to the trunk and the trunk floor. I have found trunk floor panels from usaparts & carid and have tried dozens of searches using all sorts of keywords & phrases but am turning up few results. Does anyone have some leads for me? There must be someone who makes all sorts of repair sections for these old girls. 1965 Grand Prix.

Thanks Ringo. It's a bizarre and frankly, embarrassing request and I'm not expecting any response. I'm simply incensed as to the ridiculous postage AND the fact the supplier refuses to adapt, in the name of customer service. I just need ONE American friend to help out. Obviously, there are potential security concerns, etc but the risk is 99% mine. I'll eventually crumble and pay their ridiculous postage, and shall then continue to whine about it for months afterwards, but I'll spare the forum my pain, I promise.

Hi Everyone, I have a strange request. I don't wish to break any forum rules and I PROMISE this is a one off. I have found a tiny part for my Grand Prix (trunk lock barrel) which is only $30 but they want $80 to send it to Australia. I have tried to negotiate a cheaper non expedited UPS price but no cigar. Is anyone prepared to allow me to purchase this tiny part and send it to their US address (a PO is ideal) whereupon you could forward it to my address, through regular post? I will of course reimburse you. You are welcome to open and check the contents. If this breaks any rules or there are security concerns, then I'll happily delete this request. I know I'm tight, but this is one purchase I can't justify such exorbitant cost for such a tiny 2 ounce item. I CANNOT locate this exact item anywhere else (I found one on eBay for $300!!!), as it has a specific casting that allows it to attach to the rear trunk panel and is not just a lock barrel. Thanks, Fitzy.

Hi Guys, Tightass Time again. I noticed that my driver's vent window winder wasn't doing it's thing. Ames wants $40 for a replacement. That's reasonable, but converted to Aussie dollars plus shipping, the price gets up there pretty quickly. So, I peered inside the door panel and undid the 3 bolts plus one other and out came the old winder unit. After I played with it, I could see the problem. There's obviously some sort of retainer that stops the spiral gear from winding itself out of the housing, but it appears to have broken off. (See first photo.) So, I marked where the shaft abutted the housing and removed the shaft. I angle cut a groove into the shaft and then squeezed a spring washer in there, which will do exactly what the retainer would have done. Total cost: zilch! Cleaned out the old grease, lubed and greased the gears, and now it happily winds away. I offer these tips not to show off, but to assist others who may have the same problem. Plus, it's a great excuse to disappear into your work area, crack a beer and fix the problem. Just remember to use the angle grinder first, THEN have a beer.

Okay, here they are. NOW I can pop the hood and stare lovingly at my freshly painted valve covers. All I need to do now is whip out that little 389 and unbolt every accessory and sand & polish everything until it gleams. The engine runs sweet but I have yet to perform a compression test to see where it's at. I figure that if it needs a rebuild, I might go all out and chuck in one of Butler's 420CID stroker kits. Like Wrongway said - gotta make it mine!

Welcome Everyone to Tightass Tricks, with Fitzy. Thanks to the ever plummeting Aussie peso plus the fact I'm TIGHT, here is my latest mini project: valve cover rejuvenation. As you can see, they started off looking terrible. I wire brushed them, then 80 grit, then 400, then I converted whatever rust was left, wet 1200 (at this point, if I was building a rat rod, I would have clear coated them and job done) then VHT primer. Once finished, I'll post a pic of the final result. They are gonna look great. I polished the oil filler cap and the retaining bolts, just to provide a little variety amongst the blue covers. Total cost, incl. paint, sandpaper & rust converter - about 50 Aussie pesos, that's roughly US$30.

Hi Wrongway, I emailed Ames and yes, they will custom make me a headlining in the black star pattern. You are right - I WILL make it mine. If we have 6 of my model in the country, I'd be surprised, so the chances of offending a Pontiac purist are gonna be mighty slim!

Thanks fellas, that's a great help. I love Sprint's comment about my 'local parts store.' Sorry Sprint, I'm in Australia and my Poncho is probably one of perhaps 6 in the entire country. Be assured that my local parts store wouldn't know a Pontiac from a Honda. Having said that, here's an uplifting little story. I needed some correct Pontiac light blue engine enamel. Yes, it's available from the US but can't be shipped because it's an aerosol. After a fruitless search in all the panel shops and 'local parts stores' I was about to give up when I saw a little place I'd never been to and thought 'oh well, I'll try them, just in case.' I told the guy what I needed and he showed me the VHT catalogue. There it was, the CORRECT Pontiac blue, alongside the later metallic blue. So I ordered it (along with some primer) and to my total amazement, got to pick it up a week later. So, I will now eat my own words and declare that my 'local parts store' came through for me. I guarantee I have just exhausted their Pontiac parts supply though...

Hi Sprint, sorry about the late reply (I'm still lucky enough to have a job and just got back from 2 weeks away.) I never even considered a painted roof as an option. That GTO looks great in that combo. I love the way the GP has that flowing hardtop rear sheetmetal and I think I'll keep it in one colour so that the flowing lines continue to, um, flow.

Hi Guys, my GP is ex California and as such has a pipe from LH rocker cover to air cleaner (to assist PCV and keep emissions down I assume.) I have seen photos of other 389s and there appears to be some sort of rocker cover plug that I guess other states allowed when emissions weren't mandated. I'd like one of those plugs. Anyone got any leads as to where I might source one? Yes, I can fabricate something but would prefer a factory item. Perhaps even a non CA issued rocker cover that is solid and has no outlet whatsoever. I have one more question. Trying to locate a US wrecking yard online is proving tough. Does anyone know of a good un with a few GPs lying around?

My GP came from the factory with a vinyl roof. By the time the car came to Australia, it had gone. As a result, my roof is a mixture of faded paint, old vinyl glue, rust and patches where the paint has disappeared and the metal has oxidised, turning black. So, being on my regular tight budget and armed only with sandpaper, several paint cleaning compounds and lots of elbow grease, I have begun the tedious time consuming process of bringing my roof paint back to life. If you have a similar circumstance and don't yet have the funds for fresh paint, you can try this: Because the paint was in such poor condition, I started with 80 grit wet, eventually working down to 400, then 1200. Cutting compound, then a good quality cut & polish (I use T Cut) then a final clean with regular cut & polish, and finally a coating of wax. Have a look...

Thanks Last Indian! I will now scowl at my distributor with nenewed vigour, as it sits at the back of the engine, defiant, grinning at me as I grunt & strain to see where I should put the points! I sorta figured that the Pontiac manifold distanced itself from engine heat, and we all know that a cooler inlet charge is good for power, so I'll now look at THAT with a different set of eyes too. Clearly, because I'm self isolating at the moment, I have too much time hence peering into my engine bay and asking questions! I hope we're all doing the right thing and staying at home. The best way to stop the virus is to prevent it finding new hosts. Keep pottering with your cars, guys. It may transpire that the ICE actually helped save the human race, rather than tried to kill it off!

Goodness me, I hope a Pontiac purist never inspects my car- they'll pick it to pieces, what with it's incorrect headlining, exhaust cutouts and flat brake pedal - it's my very own Pont-enstein. I am astounded by your answer, and am grateful that you took the time to respond and am equally astounded by the engineering behind a curved brake pedal. Simple, elegant innovation - once the driving force behind the auto industry, now robot assembled characterless bubbles with a life expectancy of 5 years or so. So, can you tell me why GM put the bloody distributor at the BACK of the engine, in a black painted engine bay, where anyone less than 7 feet tall will never see what's inside the dizzy without actually physically climbing on top of the engine? I remember tuning my old Cleveland V8s and how easy it was to adjust points with the dizzy front & centre of the engine. And the inlet manifold? Are there improvements in flow and breathing from that distinctive Pontiac design? I must admit, I enjoy peering into the inky blackness of my engine bay and marvelling at all the unique characteristics that my car displays.