TWO LANE BLACK TOP

When you replaced speed sensors did you replace both sides or just drivers side?

Is the ABS light or the traction control light on? If so is it one or both ? Are they on at the same time ? If so is one or the other is on is it always on or just random? Or has either light came on at all?

Sounds like one of the 3 diodes in alternator is bad.With the key off One way to check is to take the ground wire off the battery. Put just a regular test light one end on negative terminal on batt put other end to cable itself. If lights up real bright you definitely have a power draw. If lights up to where it is hard to see really dim.Normal radio clock memory ETC. If really bright or see at all unplug the PLASTIC plug from top or depending how it is clocked or from side of the alternator Not the heavy guage red wire If the test light goes out or really dim Shows bad diode If one of the diodes or the rectifier bridge is bad power feeds back thru system will kill battery every time .IF test light stays ON the problem is elsewhere unfortunately late model alternators are designed not to be rebuilt...also be sure to check all grounds One other thing bad regulator generally causes battery to boil over from over charging.... IF all that check OK look around main fuse block wire harness under the hood and under dash make sure no wires have rubbed together and wore thru insulation and are touching each other also around radio harness especially if have aftermarket radio Also with car running check output of the alternator with multimeter red lead to at heavy guage red wire on back of alternator ground black lead right to the case of alternator should put out somewhere between 13.7 to 14,5 volts any less than that will not keep batt suficitantly charged if OK .There check at batt if a lot of voltage drop shows major resistance in cables if that is case clean terminals real good.Diodes can be bad and still charge like it is supposed too one other thing make sure glovebox or consol lights are turning off when closed Hope this helps good luck

I am 99% sure that there is no VIN# stamped anywhere on the frame.Only on cowl tag and the engine block and possibly on inside of firewall Behind where heater box mounts . Like I said not 100%sure.

Had not thought about that Frosty. Could very well be.

You are welcome . Have been doing this along time myself . Hate problems like that sad apart about it is from my own experience usually winds up being something simple. PS Please look at my fresh engine post again put some more on it.

One other thing missing duct work in front of radiator can make third gens run hot by not channeling the air correctly into radiator maybe some of these suggestions will help?

Is this a fresh engine? Are you 100% sure with out doubt that there not crack in cylinder head ? Have built couple of engines thru the years that have had cracked heads that did NOT show up during pressure testing or magna fluxing But opened up slightly when the head is torqued . and engine gets to operating temp.Especially if they have been cut down and the intake and exhaust ports ported and reshaped for max air flow at high RPM the spring pockets opened up to accept larger diameter springs. and running really radical cam profile....Thin walled castings can crawl around quite a lot. Causes all kinds of issues such as cracks in the bottom of the spring pockets around the edges just enough to let just miniscule couldn't even measure amount of water what little there was pulled out by evac system and wasn't getting into the oil only symptom was what we thought was condensation in top in valve cover due to hot engine exposed to cold outside temperature while cooling off after racing 100 laps got to wondering about it put valve cover that was cut open on top watched engine run awhile saw water bubbling up around one of valve springs.If had been street engine without super radical cam profile and matching valve springs and not turning 7500 rpms probably would been OK just an example of things you run into when racing thin wall casting iron head Pontiac engine Was ruthlessly fast though sorry about rambling on sometimes cant help myself pretty sure none this would apply to your problem. SORRY again for rambling about stupid stuff realize this isn't place for it.....

I am in Winston Salem Still think I would look at my fans again just to be sure the air is flowing correctly .Timing would not have that much of an effect on temperature also check carburation make sure not running way lean.Also make sure no vacuum leaks. saw that has new water pump I have seen new water pumps that didn't work like supposed to because of too much clearance between the pump housing itself and the impeller not necessarily divider plate.Excessive clearance will cause the coolant not flow as fast as it should if at all . More common problem than you might think might be worth looking at.

Make sure your electric fans are rotating the right direction you can tell by putting piece of paper on front of radiator should suck up to it. If not rotating right direction just reverse the two wires hope this helps.