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Pontiac of the Month

J J Web's 1967 Lemans

2024 May
of the Month

Bud Sisto

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Posts posted by Bud Sisto

  1. I finally found in my 9 million page shop manual, the page describing the ignition switch. 5 positions, pushed in and turned to the left, (counter clockwise), is accessory . 2nd position clockwise is lock (off) to remove the key. 3rd position is off. 4th position is on and 5th is start. So my ignition switch is broken.

  2. I own a 11986 Pontiac Parisianne with 46K original miles. It was garage kept all it's life and owned by an older gentleman, which means that the odds of some parts on the car being broke or worn out by now are small. That being said, It doesn't make sense that the ignition switch would be broken in any way. From the off position to the on to the start, it works perfectly, but I cannot in any way get it to turn to the accessory position. I make sure the key is all the way in and push in and absolutely it will not go counterclockwise. So I have a question for the forum. Did Pontiac eliminate the accessory position somewhere in the 80s? It has an HEI system. Or is my switch simply malfunctioning? Anyone know? I'm baffled, and could use some input. Thanks for any help with this topic, Bud

  3. Hey everyone, Nice to be back, Hoping someone has a definitive answer for this Question. I just bought a can of Duplicolor Blue engine paint from Ames that is supposed to be the correct blue for my !966 Pontiac Bonneville jack. Question is, is that the correct color for my year Pontiac and not black? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to go through all the taping involved for the wrong color. Thanks, Bud

  4. Thank you Sprint 6. I suppose, "draped over the rear seat retaining strip" is the closest so far but, as you can see from the pics, there are some holes on top of the rear seat backing panel that gives the idea of screws to attach the well material but then again maybe not. If not then the material would be glued after draping over. Would you agree? The other pic shows that I did fasten the rear end of the well material properly. Bud

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  5. I have to attach my well liner to my rear seat panel in my 66 Bonneville convertible but, I don't remember how it is fastened over the backing panel. There are a number of holes on the very top of the seat panel that suggest screws or a metal strip screwed on top across the top to hold the liner but, since I removed the original over 20 years ago I'm at a loss. From very hard to see clearly videos on you-tube I think it just folds over the top and gets glued, but again I'm not sure. Anyone here know for sure how they did it in the factory? It would help me finish this part of the top installation. Thanks, Bud

  6. Ever REALLY look at the rear light housing on a 66 Bonneville? You would imagine that they would be rectangular, (of course rounded at the ends), but everyone I look at seems to have a droop across the top edge, and sometimes along the bottom edge. So, a question for someone who might know or has delved into this matter and has some fact formed opinion is..... Is it supposed to look like that, like a bow tie look? is it a casting flaw? It just seems a bit screwy that they purposely designed them that way with a "squeezed in the middle look.I'd love to hear any facts or opinions about this because I really want to straighten mine out. Thanks, Bud. PS the picture is not through a fish eye lens, Bud

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  7. I am hoping there might be someone out there with info on the colors offered on the full sized Pontiac steering wheels. Particularly the ones with the chrome bar inside the clear urethane. I'll upload a pic. I'm having mine recast and is gray other than the clear part. The question is, could you order the wheel color to match your paint? or did the come in stock colors only. I'd like to change it but want to stick with factory offerings to stay with the restoration guidelines.1127171324.thumb.jpg.c29050c0eccbf428d94a8097d5978860.jpg

  8. Can't seem to decipher the wiring schematic for my 66 Pontiac Bonneville. Specifically the headlight wiring. There is supposed to be 2 sources for power, one for the front park lights and head lights via the big red wire going to it. It energizes first the purple wire to the front park lights on the first click out and then the blue wire to the dimmer switch on the second click out.  That part is fine but, the other half of the switch is supposed to energize the instrument panel on both 1st and 2nd clicks, which basically connects the brown and white wire to the double green on the headlight switch. The brwn and wht wire goes to the center part of the fuse block and the brwn wire to the front park lights is fused off of it and also fused off of it is the drk green wire which goes to the rheostat connection #3 and jumped off of that is a green wire to the ignition lamp. There is no supply of power in the fuse box to the headlight switch with these wires and as I mentioned before, the headlight swich merely connects the brn/wht wire to the drk grn. All that being taken in, WHERE does the power come from? ANYBODY?( for the inst. panel lights). Hopefully the schematic I upload will provide the information for someone else to figure out my dilema.  Thanks, Bud. P/S. 65 is the same as 66

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  9. This is a night photo of the pass side I needed to finish. De rusted, rust reformer sprayed and chassis black topcoat. Yet to install the new muffler, pipe hangers (stainless) and new brake line and hardware. I'm so glad I'll be out from under the car for a while while I sand and seal the body panels. I'm using Rustoleum rust converter spray. It is an excellent paint if you never want to see rust again, but a topcoat should be applied soon after. All for now. Will post more soon Bud. P.S. thanks for the comments!!!

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  10. Got a converter. This side is done. I'm currently working on  the other. New tank refurbished original straps. You can't get the same quality in repro. Stainless pipe clamps, fuel line and sending unit. I know they're not original, but I replaced all the bolts with stainless. That's an nos pleasurizer shock. I bought nos pleasure-lift air shocks but they don't seem to extend as far as the regular shocks so I nixed them for now. Anyone know if they're supposed to be that way? Seems that they would be correct for a smaller model. I'll update more regular since I can now convert the pictures. Thanks for all the responses. Bud

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  11. I can't seem to upload from my camera any more. My first picture uploaded and it's 750 mb now, I'm only allowed 488. Any ideas what I can do? Anyway I've been restoring the rear of the car new gas tank ,muffler, pipes, shocks, brakes lines etc. If Anyone can help me upload my pics then you can SEE my progress. But without pics it's sort of a dull feature. Bud

  12. I'm finally getting somewhere with my Pontiac Bonneville convertible restoration so I thought it might be a fun thing to post some pic and see if others would like to also. Looking forward to seeing your progress pics, Bud. I finished the firewall forward, only to find that when I removed the windshield ( well it's self evident in the second pic. I have since repaired the damage but can't upload in this post. More pics to follow. Come on guys, Sent some of your progress.Bud

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    • Like 1
  13. I'm pretty sure there's no thread on this subject so I won't bother scrolling through all of the threads looking for an answer. Doe's anyone here happen to know the thread size for the 66-68 8 lug rim lugs (or lug nuts) ? I think they are 1/2 but not sure. Also, can you use 32 of one king of lug or do you need to buy the set specifically made for 8 lug rims with the reverse thread for one side. Or did GM only do that for the 59-65 8 lug rims. The reason I'm asking is that the set costs $179, but the single lug nuts are $1.15 each A big difference and I hate to find out afterwards that I spent way too much for something. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bud

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